Yes, I changed every fuse in the battery comp and the 30 amp fuse on the starter relay. That battery is brand new and charged for 10 hours on a 2amp trickle charge. I am letting it charge again right now and will check it in the morning. If it should be 12.3V fully charged I may have a bad battery or this charger may be kicking off before the charge is complete.

In either case, I should see the 11.9 volts or some voltage on the starter side when the key is on and starter button is depressed, right?

 

Only if you have power from the battery, thru the main fuse to the key switch to the starter button then to the solenoid and a ground to the small wires on the solenoid to engergize it. Until then no you are not suppose too have anything on the starter side. With no lights I don't think you have battery power to the activation coil part of the solenoid, or to the key switch for that matter. A bad solenoid will cause a no crank problem, not a no light problem. Have you checked the plugs under the plastic for the key switch, insturment pod and handle bar switches? If they have a bad connection or are unplugged you will have this problem described bt you.

 

NOt sure what plugs you are referring to Bear?

 

do me a favor duckdawg follow your positive cable from the battery to the solenoid i bet there is no other wire that feeds off the battery side of this BECAUSE all power to the switch and anything else electrical feeds through the starter relay through the 30 amp fuse, there are more than 2 wires coming out of the starter relay and one of these wires feed power to the ignition switch.

 

Right there are 3 or 4 coming out of the plug at the top behind the 30 amp fuse. I figured one was a ground, one sent power to the key, and the other must return power to the relay. I have the whole thing torn down right now all the way to the key switch.

You are also right about the lead from the battery. It comes start of the positive post to the relay.

 

Starter relay was the culprit. I believe I had the same problem as automan. See the pictures below.

Starter Relay Problem
Hey they even throw in a new fuse!

Thanks to everyone for your help. As soon as I saw the new relay I realized what I was missing. The little tab that connects the post, I guess to the fuse/relay, was gone. The top part was loose and fell off when I unscrewed the lead from the battery. I didn't really thing anything about it at the time, but now I know. I guess that is what running around in the MS Delta duck hunting will do for you.

 

Ok, so the terminal was bad on the start solenoid. How does a terminal erode away like that? Does it look like water rusted it or is this a really cheaply made part that shouldn't be used on an ATV. I see by the pic's and the wiring diagram and parts list that this starter solenoid is unique to the ACT model, I think I understand why. The FIS models all use a more traditional style start solenoid and what's happening to you guys can't happen on them. If it was me I would swap it out for the $23 one for the FIS and wire in a seperate fuse holder. That's the screwiest set up I have ever seen.

 

I have the FIS. I think all the 400 models use this starter relay. All the 2003 models use this starter relay. I saw the one you are talking about on the 04 FIS diagram. Thats why I kept asking you which part you were talking about. The solenoid you were explaining wasn't like the starter relay on my 03.

It was really rusted out bad. We run in some pretty harsh conditions during duck season and sometimes the gumbo stays on for days without being washed off. The starter solenoid on the other models would be much more weather resistent.

 

now you know what wire i was talking about its really hard to explain without a pic but what i did till i got a new relay was like bear said was wire in my own fuse connector till i could get in to the dealer for warranty work, i usually try to take my bike in with several problems instead of just one, just 1 deductible per visit[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] glad i could help

 

Being rusted out means it really has no business on an ATV. May I suggest that to prevent it from happening in the future that you go to the auto parts store and get some "Liquid Neopreme" (or whatever name they call it, but it is a liquid rubber that you can paint on and it sets up). Paint all the connections and this will keep the water out. I usually use the stuff on my boats too. Solves this type of problem. Evidently AC is wising up and dropping these over complicated Japanese designed, problem creators. The only 2005 model that uses that solenoid is the 400 ACT and in 2006 they dropped it completely. I can see why with the problems you guys have been having. Sorry for the mix up.