Oh, by the way - On the Polaris' and AC's, I did turn the idle screws down to the point of the quads wanting to die - no voltage change until they started to "stumble" - - this was done to eliminate the possibility of idling over 2000 RPM

 

It idles fine, it just won't take the gas. It starts spitting,backfiring, etc. when I try to rev it up. I put a brand new battery in it Thursday night but I can check voltage output to see if it is charging. What's confuses me is (until now) the engine would run fine with the ignition switch on the "Headlight on" position or with the winch button depressed but acted-up with the ignition in the first position (no lights on).

I didn't get a chance to check it yesterday but I will one night this week. I'm going to pull and clean the carb, check the voltage output (static and running) and check the valve adjustment since it has not been done in over a year (I know, it's overdue) By the way, is valve adjustment procedure for AC's in any manual anywhere?

Ernie

 

I just checked the battery and charging volts (it's the quickest and easiest!) That is NOT the prob. Static voltage is 13.8 and idle voltage is 16.9. This is the best battery Batteries Plus had, it's a rated for extreme duty so voltage is in range. The more i listen to it, the more it sounds like a fuel prob. If think all of the other stuff (like clearing up with headlights on, winch on, etc) were just a coincidence that was throwing me for a loop. If it idles for a while, it runs fine at high revs. (for a while) If you sit there and rev it up long enough, it starts dying again. Let it idle for a while and runs fine again. I think I have a sticking needle and seat or a float issue. I'm now thinking she's fuel starved! I'll know when I get the carb off. If it were a valve adjustment prob, the problem would be constant as valves don't normally adjust themselves every few minutes.

 

It sounds to me like your voltage out put is to high! I would certainly check into the voltage regulator. Supplying the entire system w/ to many volts will most definately damage your electrical system. I had a motorcycle that had a bad regulator on it and with a new battery it would run good for about 30 minutes and then it would start popping and backfiring. I could turn the turn signal on and it would run good when the signal light csme on then cut out when it went off! Just a suggestion. Good luck!!

 

It sounds to me like your voltage out put is to high! I would certainly check into the voltage regulator. Supplying the entire system w/ to many volts will most definately damage your electrical system. I had a motorcycle that had a bad regulator on it and with a new battery it would run good for about 30 minutes and then it would start popping and backfiring. I could turn the turn signal on and it would run good when the signal light csme on then cut out when it went off! Just a suggestion. Good luck!!

 

It sounds to me like your voltage out put is to high! I would certainly check into the voltage regulator. Supplying the entire system w/ to many volts will most definately damage your electrical system. I had a motorcycle that had a bad regulator on it and with a new battery it would run good for about 30 minutes and then it would start popping and backfiring. I could turn the turn signal on and it would run good when the signal light csme on then cut out when it went off! Just a suggestion. Good luck!!

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: Ujoint

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: buckaroo50





Remember under 2000 RPM and the battery is not being charged and the engine is running off the battery - over 2000 RPM and the magneto charges the battery and supplies the engine.





</end quote></div>



Interesting Theory, but I find that it is not true.



I have grown up in an ATV repair shop, and never once has Dad told me that the charging circuit only works above idle speed. SO, after reading this post, I took it upon myself to go and see what this is about, using a $2.99 volt meter.......



'02 SP700 "static" voltage - 12.3 V ; Idle voltage - 14.2 V ; 1/2 throttle voltage - 13.6 v

'02 SP500 "static" voltage - 12.5V ; Idle voltage - 14.1 V ; 1/2 throttle voltage - 13.9 v



OK, so Polaris does not function as theorized, SO.............

I took a trip to the Shop.............



'05 AC 400 Auto "static" voltage - 12.1 V ; Idle voltage - 14.6 V ; 1/2 throttle voltage - 14.1 v

'02 AC250 "static" voltage - 12.4 V ; Idle voltage - 14.3 V ; 1/2 throttle voltage - 13.8 v



The same type results from Yamaha's and Honda's too..............



Now, I have learned from experience that many quads will not run well with a dead battery - I've even run across several AC's and Kawasaki's that would run as long as the battery booster was connected, then die as soon as you remove the battery booster.



Sassee, I would be inclined to check your battery voltage again, as you may not be putting a charge back into your new battery, especially since it worked great, then over a period of use went back to the same thing again.

If you run a dead battery long enough you will toast the voltage regulator as it struggles to "dump" as much voltage possible into a dead battery.</end quote></div>

You may want to reevaluate your situation and what you claim that is not true may be in fact true.

https://atvconnection.com/D...-Charging-Systems.cfm

https://atvconnection.com/D...ng-Systems-Page-2.cfm


Here are a couple pages that my help you get the facts straight.