Stuck Drive Axle Nut
#2
When I take mine off once a year to check the seals and bearings I usually soak the P-wad out of it with penetrating oil like WD-40, liquid wrench or the like. Then I let is sit over night. The next day I put the "metric socket" that I bought to fit it the hex nut in my impact wrench and it usually comes loose. The first time I had it off I had to let it soak for a second night.
It may help if the machine is left in gear and the opposite tire is on the ground so the axle will be less likely to spin. I think the socket was 27 or 28 mm and was the best $10 I have spent on special tools in a while.
When you get it off the hub and you go to re-install it put some Anti-seize on the threads. Do not put too much as this attracts dirt which traps water and can cause rust.
Also if you need a good HD CV boot check out the website thecvman.com he sells HD boot kits that are awsome. I am currently using several and the kit comes with everything you need, is cheaper than the dealer AND has a set of very detailed instructions for the inner and the outter CV-boot. IF you already have the boot then you may want to take a look at his instructions as I have found them to be very good, except no pictures.
SJ
It may help if the machine is left in gear and the opposite tire is on the ground so the axle will be less likely to spin. I think the socket was 27 or 28 mm and was the best $10 I have spent on special tools in a while.
When you get it off the hub and you go to re-install it put some Anti-seize on the threads. Do not put too much as this attracts dirt which traps water and can cause rust.
Also if you need a good HD CV boot check out the website thecvman.com he sells HD boot kits that are awsome. I am currently using several and the kit comes with everything you need, is cheaper than the dealer AND has a set of very detailed instructions for the inner and the outter CV-boot. IF you already have the boot then you may want to take a look at his instructions as I have found them to be very good, except no pictures.
SJ
#3
A good penatrating oil.
Also tap/hit the axle nut, to break anything loose in there. Use a impact 30 or 29mm socket i believe. they have them at Oreilys.
When I re install all my bolts, I use anti seize.
Also tap/hit the axle nut, to break anything loose in there. Use a impact 30 or 29mm socket i believe. they have them at Oreilys.
When I re install all my bolts, I use anti seize.
#4
thanks for the advice. i tried penetrating oil, before, but i only let it sit about 15 minutes [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img] i'll spray it and let it sit overnight this time.
Thanks again, Dave
Thanks again, Dave
#7
yep 30mm, had to take mine off today.
When you go to put it back on, use anti seize on the threads
When you go to put it back on, use anti seize on the threads
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#8
Just a follow up. I tried the penetrating fluid over a period of 2 days and it worked like a charm. I replaced the boots and the PITA boot clamps and now she's rolling again.
Thanks for the help.
Dave
Thanks for the help.
Dave
#9
Good to hear you are running again. I also forgot about applying a liberal coating of antiseize before putting it back on. I take mine off once a year to check/replace the seals and they just are not that difficult to get off after the first time. I find it cheaper to repack the bearings and repalce the seals ar $4 each rather than a bearing for $40. Dang mud packs in there and takes the seal out then water gets ito the bearing and it is done for it.
I purchased an automotive CV boot clamp tool (was about $35) and it is a very handy device. The bands are cheap (about $2-$4 each) and the tool makes it way easier than messing around with a pair of pliers as some guys try to do.
SJ
I purchased an automotive CV boot clamp tool (was about $35) and it is a very handy device. The bands are cheap (about $2-$4 each) and the tool makes it way easier than messing around with a pair of pliers as some guys try to do.
SJ
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