automatic trans knocking
#11
I have had a similar issue on my TRV. For some reason with less than 500 miles on it the speedo cable sending unit, which is driven off a little notchinthe end of an idle shaft, broke and the speedo quit working. I discovered the shaft tip was broken AC covered the part under warranty and I removed the engine, split eh case and repalced the shaft.
Less than 500 miles lates it breaks again. This time it is not covered. I don't want to pay the $1500+ to do it agin and who kows how long it will last. So I installed an electronic hour/odometer for a motorcycle. Haven't had an issue with it. I removed the faulty spreedo pod and bolted on a piece of aluminum, mounted a light to it along with the new meter and it has worked flawlessly ever since.
I think the speedo sending unit lubrication design is flawed. It does not get enough oil, seizes up and snaps off the end of the idles shaft. This is the older dial type speedo not the new digital electronic ones.
I wonder if thicker oil will decrease the knocking from the valve lash? Say 5w-40? or if you can get it 10w-40? I know you can not go too thick if you ride it in the winter.
SJ
Less than 500 miles lates it breaks again. This time it is not covered. I don't want to pay the $1500+ to do it agin and who kows how long it will last. So I installed an electronic hour/odometer for a motorcycle. Haven't had an issue with it. I removed the faulty spreedo pod and bolted on a piece of aluminum, mounted a light to it along with the new meter and it has worked flawlessly ever since.
I think the speedo sending unit lubrication design is flawed. It does not get enough oil, seizes up and snaps off the end of the idles shaft. This is the older dial type speedo not the new digital electronic ones.
I wonder if thicker oil will decrease the knocking from the valve lash? Say 5w-40? or if you can get it 10w-40? I know you can not go too thick if you ride it in the winter.
SJ
#12
Since my last post on this subject, the knocking hasn't worsened but I started getting a tinny rattling. Yanked it apart again and found the drive clutch splines badly worn. It's letting the clutch wobble back and forth and hit the case. So If anybody's parting one out, I need a complete clutch. Also, talked with the dealers mechanic and he said the rattling is indeed the nut on the end of the driven clutch shaft inside the case, not the one shown above post. He said the case doesn't have to be split. Just drain the oil or tip the machine mostly on it's side to avoid oil loss and pull the inside cover. No special tools required just a new gasket $21. I'll repost after I do it with the good or bad news.
Smiley
Smiley
#14
#15
Since my last post on this subject, the knocking hasn't worsened but I started getting a tinny rattling. Yanked it apart again and found the drive clutch splines badly worn. It's letting the clutch wobble back and forth and hit the case. So If anybody's parting one out, I need a complete clutch. Also, talked with the dealers mechanic and he said the rattling is indeed the nut on the end of the driven clutch shaft inside the case, not the one shown above post. He said the case doesn't have to be split. Just drain the oil or tip the machine mostly on it's side to avoid oil loss and pull the inside cover. No special tools required just a new gasket $21. I'll repost after I do it with the good or bad news.
Smiley
Smiley
The nut that sometimes loosens is the number 15 shown in post number 5.
I found that the tinny rattling noise in the clutch was because the idiot that I got the machine from had changed the drive belt and completly left out the fixed drive face spacer (# 21 in the diagram in post 5) that the moveable face slides on so there went another $41. This shows that no matter how good it looks, the machine only had 1400 miles on it and looked almost mint, you can't judge a book by it's cover.
I'll post an update if anything important turns up.
Smiley
#16
#17
Bad news. The mechanic I was talking with (on the phone) turned out to be a parts man who didn't know spit from shinola. The case would have to be split to get further in. I could see inside the case though and by turning the driven shaft I could see the gears turning inside with almost a quarter turn of lash on the shaft and making the rapping noise. He claims that's normal and they all do it just some louder than others.
The nut that sometimes loosens is the number 15 shown in post number 5.
I found that the tinny rattling noise in the clutch was because the idiot that I got the machine from had changed the drive belt and completly left out the fixed drive face spacer (# 21 in the diagram in post 5) that the moveable face slides on so there went another $41. This shows that no matter how good it looks, the machine only had 1400 miles on it and looked almost mint, you can't judge a book by it's cover.
I'll post an update if anything important turns up.
Smiley
The nut that sometimes loosens is the number 15 shown in post number 5.
I found that the tinny rattling noise in the clutch was because the idiot that I got the machine from had changed the drive belt and completly left out the fixed drive face spacer (# 21 in the diagram in post 5) that the moveable face slides on so there went another $41. This shows that no matter how good it looks, the machine only had 1400 miles on it and looked almost mint, you can't judge a book by it's cover.
I'll post an update if anything important turns up.
Smiley
Smiley thanks for the update, sounds like I have a lot to look for. I was wondering if I needed to check Nut #32 in the diagram, ever had a problem this one or is #15 the only one. Thanks for any help.
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