Here's some more stupid questions. I have 2 carbs one has a number of PD 35C which my clymer book says is for an ATC 200. Knows identified my motors as 1984 200S and a 1983 185S. I am going to use the PD 35C carb on the 200S motor now the clymer book a diffrent jet size,diffrent needle jet clip postion. Do I rebuild the carb to the 200S specs or the ATC200 specs. I am thinkin for the 200S but thought I would ask. My other question is the other carb I have is an PD 85A,I can't find any info about that carb. Can I just buy a rebuild kit for that carb once I find out what it is for then build it to the 185S specs. Thanks again for all the helpful info.

 

I would rebuild both with 200 carb kits. I don't even fool with the 185 kits.

The 200 kits have a different taper on the needle and a larger main jet and give the 185 better running capabilities in my opinion. I haven't ran across any problems using the 200 kits on 185 engines, even ones that are ompletely stock.
Remember, there is only 9cc of displaement seperating the two engines.

The one thing to keep in mind when buying the carb kits, is the atual year of the carburetor. All the carburetors for all the 185 and 200 models will share parts EXCEPT that some have a different float needle valve and will not interchange with the other type.

One type float needle has a "washer looking" flange on the end where it connects to the float. This is the newer type.

The older type has a wire loop on the end of the float needle.

When you purchase your carb rebuild kits, be sure to let them know which one you have.

 

So what should I run for jetting. The smaller size jet like they call for the 185 ot run the bigger one. Does anyone know of a site that can ID carb's by the PD number I am striking out on trying to find out info on it.

 

Also what settings should I set the carb to the carb specs or the engine specs.

 

The # after the PD designation is only for setting purposes, so that Honda knows which carb goes on what bike and what year model bike.

I have ran across so much conflicting info over the years regarding this that it wouold be nearly impossible to exactly determine which carb is made for what model other than the float needle typ I mentioned. Add to this the fact that over the years, these carbs have likely been replaced anyway at some point.

I don't even mess around with these old carbs over the last couple of years. Honda lowered the price of their 26mm XR200R carburetor a few years back to only $140.00!! That is a complete carb assembly, set and ready to go. You do have to also buy the matching intake[$40.00] and then custom make an airboot to the airbox, but I have mounted this setup on completely stok engines and got better response and more power. No tuning neccessary. The 185 and 200 [Non-X] are stifled from the fatory with small 24mm carbs for more lowend torque.

A bigger carb is the single best improvement you could make on any of these models regardless of modificaions.

If you ever decide to go with the bigger carb route, just ask your dealer to get you an intake, o-ring, and carb for a 2002 XR200R.
If he doesn't want to fool with you, holler at me. I have several still new in boxes. I stock piled them just in case Honda decided to up the price again......LOL

 

Thanks Knows for the info. Might try that.

 

The carb kit is on its way but I want to go ride now. I took apart the carb checked eveything out then put back together back to the specs clymer says and it still is running rich. Any info eveything looks okay in the carb. Want to ride this weekend. Been told I don't have much patience.

 

It is possible that the float needle is worn to the point that the fuel supply isn't shuttint down when needed, but isn't so much that the overflow pours fuel. This is a borderline condition that the new carb kit should fix.

A couple other things you may want to try.......

Try a different sparkplug. Alot of these trikes despite how many hours you tune it, run better with the 7 series heat range spark plugs than they do with the standard 8 series. These plugs would be the D7EA, DR7EA, DR7ES, and the DPR7EA-9.

Be sure that your choke isn't partially closed. The cam lever does stick on these older bikes. Sometimes you can free it up with some lube. If it's worn out, the entire carb has to be replaced.

Be sure there is no restriction of air going INTO the airbox. These bikes used the frame as an air duct. Dirtdobbers have a field day in these bikes if they have been setting up long periods of time.

Check your plugcap for cracks. It may not be getting enough juice to burn off the gas as needed. If that checks out, try swapping ignition coils from your other bike. These coils can go weak. The stator coil however does not, and neither does the CDI box itself. Check the air gap clearance on the CDI rotor on the side of the cylinder head as well to eliminate all the electrical parts from being the cause.

As I said, I feel the carb kit is going to fix it for you, but if not try some of these and see what happens. You have nothing to lose but $2 for a different sparkplug [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] Everything else is just hard work.

 

Thanks for the info Knows. It fuel fouls out the 8 series plug. I have swapped plugs still fuel blackens the plug. Will try the coil thing. Everthing else seems to check out. The carbs are pretty simple thats why I don't get it. It does all this at idle. I think you are probably right bout the kit. Guess will have to wait to see.

 

Knows or whoever might be able to answer this question. Do I need to reinstall the jet holder when I rebuild the carb,I don't personally see what it does. Plus the one I have doesen't want to stay on the jet. Probably from age. Knows you answer too many of my questions I might have to owe you a small fortune along with the rest of the board.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]