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Keeping the chain tight on '85 200s???

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Old 09-24-1999, 11:48 AM
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I've got an '85 200s that that I'm having trouble keeping the chain tight on. The chain tensioner that is welded onto the axle is so weak from use (or abuse) over the years, that anytime you try to tighten up on the bolt to tighten the chain, the tensioner just bends over instead of pushing the axle backwards to tigten the chain.

So what I've been doing is loosening up the bolts that hold axle in place and manually push the axle backwards until the chain is at propor tension.

The problem is that after an hour of riding the axle moves forward and the chain is loose again.

HOW CAN IF FIX THIS PROBLEM??
 
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Old 09-24-1999, 12:37 PM
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First of all, I assume you have a service manual, either a Honda (long out of print, but I understand copies are now available) or a Clymer.

The chain adjuster plays a minor role in HOLDING chain tension; the inter-sprocket distance is maintained primarily by friction from the four (4) 14 mm bolts locating the axle bearing carrier. These four bolts must be torqued adequately to hold the rear axle and its sprocket the correct distance from the front sprocket.

The chain adjuster's role is positioning the rear sprocket when the four 14 mm bolts locating the bearing carrier are loosened, permitting sprocket movement; when adjustment is complete, the load is carried primrily by the adequately-snugged four (4) 14 mm bolts, not the adjuster.

Good luck.

Tree Farmer
 
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Old 09-24-1999, 01:59 PM
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Thanks for the reply, Tree Farmer.

Yep, I've been loosening those 14mm bolts and manually pushing the axle backward to get the chain tight. It just doesn't stay. You say those bolts have to be torqued.....do you know how many #s are sufficient?

The "real" problem is that the "nuts" on the other side of the housing from the 14mm bolts are no longer secured to the housing itself. I'm having to try to hold the nuts with a wrench and/or vice grips to tighten the bolts. I guess, because of this I'm not being able to get it torqued high enough.

Maybe I need to go to a welder and get them tacked back down. What do you think??
 
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Old 09-24-1999, 08:20 PM
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Tacking the nuts sounds like a good idea to me; I had to have that done to one axle bearing carrier nut on my ATC110 when recovered from its last theft; someone broke loose a nut while attempting to repair the chain broken while frolicking in the woods.

I don't have my Clymer manual handy regarding the torque specifications, but reasonable tightness, determined by feel without a torque wrench, but without stripping the threads, ought to hold.

The 110 has no movable suspension; a mechanic told me the chain could be tighter on this type of machine than on models with suspension flexing. I haven't thrown a chain since I began following his advice.

Tree Farmer
 
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Old 09-27-1999, 12:42 PM
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I had a 85 200M years ago. I had many chain tension nightmares too. Ended up welding 1/2" X 20 nuts in place of the 14mm nuts and welded a piece of flat bar with two holes drilled in it across the little ears that keep bending when tightening the chain. Seems like I had to redesign the trailer hitch after welding the bar though. Be careful to not overtighen the chain though, it will wreck the front sprocket and output shaft, it has a floating fit and will cost you big money to replace. Hope this helps.
Kirk

[This message has been edited by Kirk_D4 (edited 09-27-1999).]
 
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Old 09-27-1999, 08:41 PM
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Been there done that and then some.!

That old 200s of mine has been a wretch when it comes to gkeeping the chain secure.

It got so bad that the nuts and bolts had to be completly replaced. Had a local welder take care of that one for me. I think that we ended up going oversize on the bolts too. Also those adjusters on our bike have been broke several times as the big bolts did not hold and of course the adjusters do not have enough to them to be able to hold tension alone. So they have been rebuilt a couple of times also.

Gee I thought my kids were pulling my leg about it being a problem! Well they wern't!

So today there are larger bolts in place with stronger supports surrounding them. I do not know the torque factor but I can tell you this, they are tight! Very tight. We also use lock tite every time we adjust them. Have not had a problem with them now for three years or so.

Good luck!
 
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