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#1
11-12-2007, 09:43 PM
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Hey guys, feels like i am the only one posting today, BUT, i have another question.
I was curious on why sometimes my '85 200x will start right up on the second kick just fine, but then a couple hours later, or even a couple minutes later it wont start at all. it will attempt to but no go.
A little background on it: I just bought it this last sat. (nov 10, 2007) and the guy told me he has not started it in over 2 years and wasn't sure what needed to be done in order for it to run.
when I went to go get the trike, he drained the gas that was in it, changed the oil and put fresh gas in and it started on about the fourth kick, with a rough idle.
after idling for a minute or two (with giving it a little gas, won't just sit and idle) the idle was a lot smoother, and it sounded pretty good.
got the trike home, and had to go for a spin, so i kicked it over on about the third kick, no problems. only ran for about 5 minutes
the next day i take it out and it starts on the second kick from cold. only ran it for about 5 minutes
later that same day i try to start it and it was not going to have it. it feels like my foot is broken after trying. i gave it a rest and tried about 30 minutes later and still nothing. again in an hour and bam started on the third kick.
what is going on?
I do think it needs some kind of tune up.
what all does a good tune up contain? new spark plug? carb rebuild kit? a new starter?
thank you so much for even reading this, and don't be afraid to reply!!
I was curious on why sometimes my '85 200x will start right up on the second kick just fine, but then a couple hours later, or even a couple minutes later it wont start at all. it will attempt to but no go.
A little background on it: I just bought it this last sat. (nov 10, 2007) and the guy told me he has not started it in over 2 years and wasn't sure what needed to be done in order for it to run.
when I went to go get the trike, he drained the gas that was in it, changed the oil and put fresh gas in and it started on about the fourth kick, with a rough idle.
after idling for a minute or two (with giving it a little gas, won't just sit and idle) the idle was a lot smoother, and it sounded pretty good.
got the trike home, and had to go for a spin, so i kicked it over on about the third kick, no problems. only ran for about 5 minutes
the next day i take it out and it starts on the second kick from cold. only ran it for about 5 minutes
later that same day i try to start it and it was not going to have it. it feels like my foot is broken after trying. i gave it a rest and tried about 30 minutes later and still nothing. again in an hour and bam started on the third kick.
what is going on?
I do think it needs some kind of tune up.
what all does a good tune up contain? new spark plug? carb rebuild kit? a new starter?
thank you so much for even reading this, and don't be afraid to reply!!
#2
11-12-2007, 11:08 PM
#3
11-12-2007, 11:13 PM
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Thanks Mudder234, I will buy a new spark plug and see if that helps. (what is the best spark plug to buy? ngk?)
the guy I bought it from said he just changed the oil, but I will also do that just incase. How many quarts of oil do I need and what kind/thickness? is there an oil filter(i don't think so but asking just in case)?
the guy I bought it from said he just changed the oil, but I will also do that just incase. How many quarts of oil do I need and what kind/thickness? is there an oil filter(i don't think so but asking just in case)?
#4
11-13-2007, 02:00 AM
Start-up
RckStrGrl21 this is a very long reply to your post , but it's worth the time to read ; i think it will do the trick for your 3 wheeler !
If it's been sitting up that long it could be gunk inside your fuel system and combustion chamber , try this get a new plug and get a can of "Sea Foam" and mix it in your gas ; the mixing instructions are on the can !
You can get the "Sea Foam" at most auto parts stores like , Auto Zone , Advance and O'Reillys Auto Parts Stores you might even find it at your local Wal Mart Super Center ; i live in Ga. and i get the "Sea Foam" from O'Reillys Auto Parts for $5.99 + tax for a 16 oz. can that will treat from 5 to 20 gallons of gas or diesel fuel !
"Sea Foam" is a fuel Cleaner/Stabilizer that will clean your entire fuel system and the combustion chamber of built up carbon deposits , it will make a big difference on the very first tank of fuel ; you can also get "Deep Creep" it's the same as "Sea Foam" only it come's in a spray can !
In over 20 yrs. in the Small Engine and Repair Industry this product is the very best fuel treatment i have ever used , i wouldn't reccomend it if i didn't believe it was as good as it work's on any type of gas or diesel powered combustion engine ; both 2 and 4 stroke engine's !
If this stuff doesn't get your engine running better after 1 tank of fuel , then you will need to rebuild your carburator and have the valves checked and adjusted if they are off specs. ; but i would highly reccomend the "Sea Foam" to anyone i've tried it and i know it work's as good as advertized !
I would even go so far as to call it a rebuid kit in a can , i've only been using this product about a year now ; and by far i've never seen a product do all they claim to do !
I only wish i had tried it sooner but i only heard about "Sea Foiam" from one of the members of these forums about a year ago , and the product has been around since 1942 ; manufactured for Sea Foam Sales Co. P.O. Box 5178 Hopkins , MN 55343 - 1178 Part No. SF -16 www.seafoamsales.com !
Guarantee Sea Foam is sold on basis of: "Your Moneys Worth Or Your Money Back"
I'll tell you this story and if you read this then i'll stop , last summer i bought a 1988 GMC S1500 Jimmy 4x4 MPV with a 4.3 Liter V6 EFI engine and THM700R4 automatic transmission with over 3003,000 miles on it from a used car dealer who told me the engine and drivetrain had been rebuilt , and only had about 87,000 miles on the engine and drivetrain ; i worked for 4 different used car dealers in the past and 3 out of the 4 would ripoff their own mother's !
So i didn't believe him one bit , but it was such a good buy at the price i paid for it ; the Custom wheels and dual stainless steel flowmasters exhaust system were worth what i paid for the vehicle alone ! After i had driven it 75 miles it started smoking when idling and would blow a big puff of white an blue smoke from the twin exhaust FlowMasters , and after i changed the oil and oil filter, Air filter and a complete tuneup ; the engine jumped time when i tried to start it up right in the middle of my driveway !
I had to let it sit for over 6 month's while i was saving the money for the part's to fix it , and at the time it had almost a full tank of gas @over $3.00 a gallon and a big tank ; i poured one 16 oz. can of Sea Foam in the tank hoping it would keep the fuel from going bad while saving up for parts !
I got 3 of my brothers to shake the fire out of the jimmy to mix the fuel , after a little over 6 month's i bought all new parts , timing chain and gear set , gaskets , new starter, new flywheel and a used distributor ; after removing and installing all these parts and resetting the timing with a freind's timing light i had over $400.00 in part's and 2 day's of my own labor into this used 88' Jimmy !
After setting the timing and adjusting the low idle mixture i started driving it again , and after about 25 miles it started smoking again ; i was right on the verge of selling it to my brother for junk !
But at the same time i had to pull the transmission in my 87' Chevy S10 pickup truck to replace the seals in my transmission , so i had to keep it untill i finished the work on my truck ; after i had burned a half tank of fuel in the Jimmy i topped off the tank one last time !
And just as soon as the truck was fixed i was going to sell the Jimmy to my brother jeff , for whatever he would offer me for it ; i just didn't care anymore about the junker !
But as i was driving home i had to stop for a traffic light , when it changed for me to go i looked in my driver side mirrow to look at the smoke to roll ; but there was no smoke not one puff and it's been over 7 month's now and hasn't smoked since !
And the only credit i can give for why it just stopped smoking the way it did , is the Sea Foam it cleaned all the built up carbon deposit's inside the combustion chamber ; freeing up the ring's lifters and valves !
That's the only thing it could've been , because i didn't pull the head's to even check if the cylinder wall's were scarred or if the i had a broken or sticking ring's ; now i use Sea Foam to treat all my fuel in every motorized vehicle i own !
I've told this story so many times in the past year i've been ask how many shares do you have in Sea Foam , and sadly i have to say 0 share's ; but if i wasn't living off my retirement and diability ( I'm a Bilateral Amputtee both legs off just below the knees) from being hit from behind by another car while helping a friend push his car out of the road ; after he ran out of gas just after pulling out of his driveway ! I would buy all the stock i could in Sea Foam Sales Co. Stock i could get my hand's on , and that is pure gospel ; i know it to be that good of a product ! Just try it if it doesn't work you can get your money back , a company couldn't stay in buisness that long if their product wasn't any good ; well i hope the Sea Foam does the trick for you however if the valves are off specs. they will need to be adjusted to the correct gap ! If you need the information for adjusting the valves i have a paperback manual with the correct valve specifications , and will try to guide you through the step's for doing the adjustment's ; or someone on the forums will jump in and help you ! ...........
If it's been sitting up that long it could be gunk inside your fuel system and combustion chamber , try this get a new plug and get a can of "Sea Foam" and mix it in your gas ; the mixing instructions are on the can !
You can get the "Sea Foam" at most auto parts stores like , Auto Zone , Advance and O'Reillys Auto Parts Stores you might even find it at your local Wal Mart Super Center ; i live in Ga. and i get the "Sea Foam" from O'Reillys Auto Parts for $5.99 + tax for a 16 oz. can that will treat from 5 to 20 gallons of gas or diesel fuel !
"Sea Foam" is a fuel Cleaner/Stabilizer that will clean your entire fuel system and the combustion chamber of built up carbon deposits , it will make a big difference on the very first tank of fuel ; you can also get "Deep Creep" it's the same as "Sea Foam" only it come's in a spray can !
In over 20 yrs. in the Small Engine and Repair Industry this product is the very best fuel treatment i have ever used , i wouldn't reccomend it if i didn't believe it was as good as it work's on any type of gas or diesel powered combustion engine ; both 2 and 4 stroke engine's !
If this stuff doesn't get your engine running better after 1 tank of fuel , then you will need to rebuild your carburator and have the valves checked and adjusted if they are off specs. ; but i would highly reccomend the "Sea Foam" to anyone i've tried it and i know it work's as good as advertized !
I would even go so far as to call it a rebuid kit in a can , i've only been using this product about a year now ; and by far i've never seen a product do all they claim to do !
I only wish i had tried it sooner but i only heard about "Sea Foiam" from one of the members of these forums about a year ago , and the product has been around since 1942 ; manufactured for Sea Foam Sales Co. P.O. Box 5178 Hopkins , MN 55343 - 1178 Part No. SF -16 www.seafoamsales.com !
Guarantee Sea Foam is sold on basis of: "Your Moneys Worth Or Your Money Back"
I'll tell you this story and if you read this then i'll stop , last summer i bought a 1988 GMC S1500 Jimmy 4x4 MPV with a 4.3 Liter V6 EFI engine and THM700R4 automatic transmission with over 3003,000 miles on it from a used car dealer who told me the engine and drivetrain had been rebuilt , and only had about 87,000 miles on the engine and drivetrain ; i worked for 4 different used car dealers in the past and 3 out of the 4 would ripoff their own mother's !
So i didn't believe him one bit , but it was such a good buy at the price i paid for it ; the Custom wheels and dual stainless steel flowmasters exhaust system were worth what i paid for the vehicle alone ! After i had driven it 75 miles it started smoking when idling and would blow a big puff of white an blue smoke from the twin exhaust FlowMasters , and after i changed the oil and oil filter, Air filter and a complete tuneup ; the engine jumped time when i tried to start it up right in the middle of my driveway !
I had to let it sit for over 6 month's while i was saving the money for the part's to fix it , and at the time it had almost a full tank of gas @over $3.00 a gallon and a big tank ; i poured one 16 oz. can of Sea Foam in the tank hoping it would keep the fuel from going bad while saving up for parts !
I got 3 of my brothers to shake the fire out of the jimmy to mix the fuel , after a little over 6 month's i bought all new parts , timing chain and gear set , gaskets , new starter, new flywheel and a used distributor ; after removing and installing all these parts and resetting the timing with a freind's timing light i had over $400.00 in part's and 2 day's of my own labor into this used 88' Jimmy !
After setting the timing and adjusting the low idle mixture i started driving it again , and after about 25 miles it started smoking again ; i was right on the verge of selling it to my brother for junk !
But at the same time i had to pull the transmission in my 87' Chevy S10 pickup truck to replace the seals in my transmission , so i had to keep it untill i finished the work on my truck ; after i had burned a half tank of fuel in the Jimmy i topped off the tank one last time !
And just as soon as the truck was fixed i was going to sell the Jimmy to my brother jeff , for whatever he would offer me for it ; i just didn't care anymore about the junker !
But as i was driving home i had to stop for a traffic light , when it changed for me to go i looked in my driver side mirrow to look at the smoke to roll ; but there was no smoke not one puff and it's been over 7 month's now and hasn't smoked since !
And the only credit i can give for why it just stopped smoking the way it did , is the Sea Foam it cleaned all the built up carbon deposit's inside the combustion chamber ; freeing up the ring's lifters and valves !
That's the only thing it could've been , because i didn't pull the head's to even check if the cylinder wall's were scarred or if the i had a broken or sticking ring's ; now i use Sea Foam to treat all my fuel in every motorized vehicle i own !
I've told this story so many times in the past year i've been ask how many shares do you have in Sea Foam , and sadly i have to say 0 share's ; but if i wasn't living off my retirement and diability ( I'm a Bilateral Amputtee both legs off just below the knees) from being hit from behind by another car while helping a friend push his car out of the road ; after he ran out of gas just after pulling out of his driveway ! I would buy all the stock i could in Sea Foam Sales Co. Stock i could get my hand's on , and that is pure gospel ; i know it to be that good of a product ! Just try it if it doesn't work you can get your money back , a company couldn't stay in buisness that long if their product wasn't any good ; well i hope the Sea Foam does the trick for you however if the valves are off specs. they will need to be adjusted to the correct gap ! If you need the information for adjusting the valves i have a paperback manual with the correct valve specifications , and will try to guide you through the step's for doing the adjustment's ; or someone on the forums will jump in and help you ! ...........
#5
11-13-2007, 02:11 AM
Join Date: Nov 2007
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Thank you for the advice, I will definately try sea foam, as I have heard it mentioned here and there on various forums (not all for atc's, mainly sports cars). I will wait until I plan on using it in order to use up a tank of gas. (I need a helmet first, just bought the 200x and I used all of my cash on it)
What kind of spark plugs are recommended?
And what type and how much oil does it hold?
What kind of spark plugs are recommended?
And what type and how much oil does it hold?
#6
11-13-2007, 04:06 AM
Start-up
RcKSrGl21 If you got through my first reply to your post whitch took me over an hour to type out ; i'll try to anwser your question's on the subject of plug and oil !
Folk's on here are always kidding me about my novel's , but i know most don't mean anythink bad about them ; they just offer advice on how i should space out the long reply's so they don't run together !
There are some really great guys and gals on this site , and i for one like to compliment them on the good work they do to help one's in need .
Just don't get into the one brand's better that the other , it can get some heated debate's started ; me i think whatever you like is the best !
NGK is the best plugs to use , you hit the the jackpot my manual covers the Honda ATC200X (1983 - to 1985 ) this doesn't happen that often because this manual doesn't go into deep detail on all makes and models.
It covers so many brands that it doesn't give great details , but here's what plug to use: NGK DR8ES - L ; and for the oil SAE 10w40 some Auto Zone Parts Stores carry Valvoline 10w40 oil that is designed to use in a wet sump ( engine and transmission uses same oil ) to lubricate both the engine and tranny in motorcycles and atv's !
If they don't have the Valvoline in stock you can use any standard motor oil that carries an API classification of SE or SF. just stay away from the energy saving type oils with the dounut shaped seal on the bottle , i use Castrol GTX 10w40 in winter and Castrol GTX 20w50 in summer and it hasn't damaged my clutch like some of the other brands of oil that people say will cause clutch slippage !
But there are people who will only use the oil from their Honda Dealer , but Honda doesn't make the oil themselve's ; they get it from oil companies just like the parts stores will stock oil with their store brand name on it !
So i wouldn't waste my money on the high priced synthetic oil's other's swear by , because you don't want to run a small engine that only hold's ( in your case 1.1 qt.) of oil a thousand miles just because the label say's it's ok to run that long between oil changes ,
that's what the manual say's about changing the oil: Oil is drained by removing drain plug , spring and sump screen located in the left crankcase half ; so it doesn't have a oil filter only a spring and screen to filter the oil !
And i don't care how long someone say's you can go in between oil changes , i would change it at least every 10 hrs. or 100 miles ; the air filter ?
The Air Cleaner Element should be removed and cleaned after every 30 day's of operation or more if you live in very dry part's of the country here in Ga. we are in a drought that has been the worst i've seen in over 20 yrs. so i clean my air filter after every other ride according to how much dust i eat !
I always wear white clothing when i ride and by the time we're done riding for the day they are brown from the dust .
. To remove air cleaner element , first remove the seat. Release four cover spring clips and remove cover.
Loosen air cleaner frame to inlet tube clamp and remove rear support bracket mounting screw , then withdraw element and frame from case. Unscrew frame support bracket and carefully seperate foam element from frame.
Thoroughly clean the foam element in a nonflammable solvent (use dish washing liquid instead of what this manual call's for) Compress element between hands and remove solvent ( again don't use anything but dish washing liquid to clean the foam element ) Then saturate element in clean SAE 80 - 90 gear oil. Compress element to remove excess oil.
Place a light coat of grease around the inside of frame neck , then reinstall air cleaner element assembly by reversing removal proceures !
I typed this information straight from my manual , i just changed the part about using solvent to clean the foam element because solvent will destroy the foam element in no time at all ; i know this from over 20 yrs. experince in lawn and garden service and Repair .
I wish i had a way to scan the pages for you , but i don't have a scanner or i would do it for you ; it would be alot easier with the photo's in the manual !
In the photo of the drain plug it's right under the foot shifter , be carefull when you remove the plug ; there's a spring and a screen like filter inside the crankcase . they're numbered 1. Drain plug 2. Spring 3. sump screen .
Then clean sump screen before reinstalling. Boy they must think we're to dumb to clean the screen before putting it back in the drain hole ? !
Well that's what the manual say's about changing the oil , word for word ; i just hope this makes some sense to you . It's not as hard as it sound's in the manual , and once you've done the job once ; it doesn't take as long the next time you do it !
RcKStrGl21 If there's anything else you need if it's in this manual i'll help you all i can , my brother has a Digtal Camera he takes photos of thing's he sell's on ebay ; if you need photo's i could try to get him to take them and i would have to get him to post them to you because it's been so long since i've done this i've fogotten how !
And i only see my brother once a week or two , even though he live's on a hill right behind my home ; because he work's from daylight to dark and sometime's on weekend's !
But i've never been able to get a photo to work on this site , it always says waiting for approval ; then i get a message saying the photo is to big and i resize them down to jpeg and still i can't get them to post !
One other thing before i go , the foam filter in the air cleaner element mentioned in the manual may crumble when you try to remove it be if it's been sitting up as long as you were talking about ; but i've seen miracle's before i'm one of them myself !
The car that took off my legs tried to kill me , the Lord had other idea's in mind for me to do before i go from this old world ; so i will check back i have my pc set to get messages from this site when someone makes a reply to a post i'm watching !
And i use this site as my home page , so as soon as i hit inernet explorer ; it take's me directly to the forum
It was hard to believe this cheap INTERTEC ALL - TERRAIN VEHICLE (ATV) Maintenance Manual* Second Edition would cover your ATC200X ; everytime someone posts for information on an ATC this manual doesn't have their model but you hit the jackpot on the first spin and good luck i still think the Sea Foam will do a good job on the fuel system !
And at $5.99 + Tax that's about the price of 2 gallon's of regular 87 octane gas where i live !
And just a week ago i saw gas at one of the highest priced station's was 2.73.9 , and 3 day's later it was 2.93.9 at the cheapest station ; where i buy my fuel ! But at least all my vehicle's run good on regular 87 octane fuel !...............
Folk's on here are always kidding me about my novel's , but i know most don't mean anythink bad about them ; they just offer advice on how i should space out the long reply's so they don't run together !
There are some really great guys and gals on this site , and i for one like to compliment them on the good work they do to help one's in need .
Just don't get into the one brand's better that the other , it can get some heated debate's started ; me i think whatever you like is the best !
NGK is the best plugs to use , you hit the the jackpot my manual covers the Honda ATC200X (1983 - to 1985 ) this doesn't happen that often because this manual doesn't go into deep detail on all makes and models.
It covers so many brands that it doesn't give great details , but here's what plug to use: NGK DR8ES - L ; and for the oil SAE 10w40 some Auto Zone Parts Stores carry Valvoline 10w40 oil that is designed to use in a wet sump ( engine and transmission uses same oil ) to lubricate both the engine and tranny in motorcycles and atv's !
If they don't have the Valvoline in stock you can use any standard motor oil that carries an API classification of SE or SF. just stay away from the energy saving type oils with the dounut shaped seal on the bottle , i use Castrol GTX 10w40 in winter and Castrol GTX 20w50 in summer and it hasn't damaged my clutch like some of the other brands of oil that people say will cause clutch slippage !
But there are people who will only use the oil from their Honda Dealer , but Honda doesn't make the oil themselve's ; they get it from oil companies just like the parts stores will stock oil with their store brand name on it !
So i wouldn't waste my money on the high priced synthetic oil's other's swear by , because you don't want to run a small engine that only hold's ( in your case 1.1 qt.) of oil a thousand miles just because the label say's it's ok to run that long between oil changes ,
that's what the manual say's about changing the oil: Oil is drained by removing drain plug , spring and sump screen located in the left crankcase half ; so it doesn't have a oil filter only a spring and screen to filter the oil !
And i don't care how long someone say's you can go in between oil changes , i would change it at least every 10 hrs. or 100 miles ; the air filter ?
The Air Cleaner Element should be removed and cleaned after every 30 day's of operation or more if you live in very dry part's of the country here in Ga. we are in a drought that has been the worst i've seen in over 20 yrs. so i clean my air filter after every other ride according to how much dust i eat !
I always wear white clothing when i ride and by the time we're done riding for the day they are brown from the dust .
. To remove air cleaner element , first remove the seat. Release four cover spring clips and remove cover.
Loosen air cleaner frame to inlet tube clamp and remove rear support bracket mounting screw , then withdraw element and frame from case. Unscrew frame support bracket and carefully seperate foam element from frame.
Thoroughly clean the foam element in a nonflammable solvent (use dish washing liquid instead of what this manual call's for) Compress element between hands and remove solvent ( again don't use anything but dish washing liquid to clean the foam element ) Then saturate element in clean SAE 80 - 90 gear oil. Compress element to remove excess oil.
Place a light coat of grease around the inside of frame neck , then reinstall air cleaner element assembly by reversing removal proceures !
I typed this information straight from my manual , i just changed the part about using solvent to clean the foam element because solvent will destroy the foam element in no time at all ; i know this from over 20 yrs. experince in lawn and garden service and Repair .
I wish i had a way to scan the pages for you , but i don't have a scanner or i would do it for you ; it would be alot easier with the photo's in the manual !
In the photo of the drain plug it's right under the foot shifter , be carefull when you remove the plug ; there's a spring and a screen like filter inside the crankcase . they're numbered 1. Drain plug 2. Spring 3. sump screen .
Then clean sump screen before reinstalling. Boy they must think we're to dumb to clean the screen before putting it back in the drain hole ? !
Well that's what the manual say's about changing the oil , word for word ; i just hope this makes some sense to you . It's not as hard as it sound's in the manual , and once you've done the job once ; it doesn't take as long the next time you do it !
RcKStrGl21 If there's anything else you need if it's in this manual i'll help you all i can , my brother has a Digtal Camera he takes photos of thing's he sell's on ebay ; if you need photo's i could try to get him to take them and i would have to get him to post them to you because it's been so long since i've done this i've fogotten how !
And i only see my brother once a week or two , even though he live's on a hill right behind my home ; because he work's from daylight to dark and sometime's on weekend's !
But i've never been able to get a photo to work on this site , it always says waiting for approval ; then i get a message saying the photo is to big and i resize them down to jpeg and still i can't get them to post !
One other thing before i go , the foam filter in the air cleaner element mentioned in the manual may crumble when you try to remove it be if it's been sitting up as long as you were talking about ; but i've seen miracle's before i'm one of them myself !
The car that took off my legs tried to kill me , the Lord had other idea's in mind for me to do before i go from this old world ; so i will check back i have my pc set to get messages from this site when someone makes a reply to a post i'm watching !
And i use this site as my home page , so as soon as i hit inernet explorer ; it take's me directly to the forum
It was hard to believe this cheap INTERTEC ALL - TERRAIN VEHICLE (ATV) Maintenance Manual* Second Edition would cover your ATC200X ; everytime someone posts for information on an ATC this manual doesn't have their model but you hit the jackpot on the first spin and good luck i still think the Sea Foam will do a good job on the fuel system !
And at $5.99 + Tax that's about the price of 2 gallon's of regular 87 octane gas where i live !
And just a week ago i saw gas at one of the highest priced station's was 2.73.9 , and 3 day's later it was 2.93.9 at the cheapest station ; where i buy my fuel ! But at least all my vehicle's run good on regular 87 octane fuel !...............
#7
11-13-2007, 11:19 AM
Join Date: Nov 2007
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Williebee,
Thank you so much for all your time in responding to my post. I really do appreciate it. And I will go today and but the seafoam, oil, and plug. Like I said I am going to wait until I get a helmet and am taking the trike out for a good spin before I put the seafoam in but I will do that.
You know, I am a preschool teacher and one of the songs my children love is called willabie wallaby. It just makes me smile when I see your screen name. ;o)
Have a great day!
Thank you so much for all your time in responding to my post. I really do appreciate it. And I will go today and but the seafoam, oil, and plug. Like I said I am going to wait until I get a helmet and am taking the trike out for a good spin before I put the seafoam in but I will do that.
You know, I am a preschool teacher and one of the songs my children love is called willabie wallaby. It just makes me smile when I see your screen name. ;o)
Have a great day!
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#8
11-13-2007, 12:14 PM
#9
11-13-2007, 11:39 PM
Start-up
here are some useful information and tips
just take the spark plug that u have in it now and take it to auto zone or advanced
auto parts and ask them for a spark like that one they should have it plus they well be cheaper than a a atv dealer.
it is cheaper to get parts on online like at palces like ebay and hyperparts.com instead buying parts thought honda atv dealer
just thought it might be some useful info i would like to share
u can probly find a manaual that u can use if u have problems for your atc online
i use to have a site bookmark were u could look at the manunal online or u buy them at amazon.com
just take the spark plug that u have in it now and take it to auto zone or advanced
auto parts and ask them for a spark like that one they should have it plus they well be cheaper than a a atv dealer.
it is cheaper to get parts on online like at palces like ebay and hyperparts.com instead buying parts thought honda atv dealer
just thought it might be some useful info i would like to share
u can probly find a manaual that u can use if u have problems for your atc online
i use to have a site bookmark were u could look at the manunal online or u buy them at amazon.com
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Big600twin
Polaris Ask an Expert! In fond memory of Old Polaris Tech.
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06-10-2015 03:01 PM
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