Hello,
Newbie here and ATV's.
After some health problems my doctor (and wife) says no more
snow shoveling and no more wrestling with a snow blower.So, I am looking at ATVs for snow plowing.
Do I need power steering?
I think it has to be 4x4 with locking differential.
Not too small and not too big. Will a 500 work.
And what brand is the best?
Any other ideas?
Thanks, Kliph

 

Power steering is not necessary but you do have to over inflate your front tires a bit though. The difference between 5 and 8psi is really pretty impressive.

Locking diff is also not necessary but sure would be nice if you need to get out of those tough spots. If you stay on top of it though, 3/4wd and low gear will get the job done.

500 will definitely work but even 300-400cc machines can get the job done depending on how much snow you get and how big your driveway is. You will lose traction way before you will need more power.

You'll get responses all over the board about which brand is best. Do your research, take them out for a test drive and go with what feels most comfortable to you.

Lastly, I hate to break it to you but plowing with a quad is still pretty labor intensive. It's a back saver for sure but you're still out in the elements and you still have to wrestle with the machine and of course there is always the risk of damage to your machine and yourself. I like your spirit though. Good luck.

 

Power steering, while not necessary is a great option to have when plowing. When you lift the blade with the winch the blade/plow frame put a lot of weight on the front end. With the power steering it makes it tons easier. I have a bad back and have enjoyed plowing. After shoveling and using a snowblower I would put the plowing on an ATV to be about 1/3 the effort of using a snowblower.

I think a 500cc is a good all around size for plowing and for getting out and having a good time. The only reason I got rid of my 500 was it didn't get me up long open, smooth inclines in high gear as fast as I wanted. Other than that the 500 cc range is a good all around package.

All the major makers have some way of getting full 4wd. Kawasaki uses a lever that you have to hold on to in order to fully lock it. My least favorite system but it works. Polaris and Can-Am use a system that, when 4wd is chosen, locks the fronts once wheel slip is sensed by the quad. Arctic Cat, Suzuki, and Yamaha have a switch that goes from 2wd to 4wd limited slip, and to lock in full 4wd you have to move a lever and press another button. Honda now has some models with full 4wd but most are limited slip only fronts.

If you can try them out I recommend it. What works for one guy isn't necessarily what will work for someone else. Generally speaking, Polaris has the softest ride and best on-board storage boxes for gear, Can-Am are usually fastest per cc, Yamaha and Suzuki are good all around machines. Don't know much about Arctic Cats and don't feel Honda has the ride comfort, on-board storage, and traction of the others.

 

Engine power has nothing to do with traction. As long as it has low range the towing capacity of a 400 has the same as a 800.
Diff lock makes steering super hard and is only for short term use to get out of a tricky spot that regular limited slip 3wd can not, it,s not for constant used.

Other things that help tractions is weight added to the rear racks and chains on the rear tires.
At 2wd with chains may have more tractions then a 4wd without chains on hard ice and packed snow.

I had a 350 4x4 and in low range and it would snap the axles before running out of power to turn the wheels.
You never going fast while plowing so the entire job should be done in low range anyways.

 

Weight on the rear rack will lift the front end and will actually reduce traction to the front tires. You will get better steering though. I would not recommend chains and weights on a 4wd machine if you have a blacktop driveway. They tend to scratch them up eventually. With that said, they are monsters on gravel drives

 

Thanks. I'm still looking.
kliph

 

While it adds more to the front end, I put a 40lb sack of oil dry on the front rack when plowing as it helps give a little more push and helps steering. I usually run my front tires at 8 psi and when I have the blade on I bump them to 15.

 

The front does not need weight due to the weight of the plow and hardware but you can add weight to the front rack as well.

A heavier ATV has more traction then a lighter ATV , same reasoning farmer add wheel and bumper weights on farm tractors.

We have a 2wd (With Chains) Massey Ferguson 1000lb garden tractor with low range and just a 25hp Briggs and Straton Twin motor and it can beat any ATV in a tug of war.
Its a heavy torque monster. Its weight,chains and low range is its advantage, Not motor HP.
Looks like this one.

 

I lift my blade up just off the ground for those times that I need a little more traction and in fact I do this when I am at the end of a push as it allows me to push the bank back a little further without tearing up the grass. I used to sit on a 50lb bag of ice melt when I was still plowing with my 2wd garden tractor. Ripped a hole in it once without realizing and had ice melt all over my seat, floorboard, foot clutch and even found it's way into my battery compartment. That was a fun clean up.

 

Another reason I add the weight is when the I'm pushing with the blade angled it can pull the front end over a little depending on how tough it is and after I put the sack on it generally eliminates that problem (depending on how much I'm pushing of course). Also helps if I'm pushing around a curve. Can't say if it's wrong or right, it's just what works for me. If I had a 650-750 size instead of 400 I might not need the weight.