Yes that is correct, Key off, engine cold, 0 ohms. If you had any reading the the fan switch would be closed and the fan would run all the time. The easy way to test it is to add a toggle switch to the two wire that connect to the fan switch. Test it by turning the toggle switch on to make sure the fan come on. If it does your ready to test. Turn toggle off, Start the quad, let it run at iddle for about 10 mins. That should be enough time for the fan switch to close and or cause the red light to come on. If the red light does come on turn the toggle switch on to cool the motor for about 3 to 5 mins then shut her down. Now order a new fan switch. If the fan come on by it self then the problem may be that the fan switch is going bad and hasn't failed completly yet. Order one for when it does. Cause it will go eventually.

 

Just to clear up a common misconception......a cooler motor does not make more HP. Your motor will make more power when it is at operating temp. More power is gained by cooler fuel ( on race cars and boats they sometimes put pipe insulation on the fuel lines to keep fuel cooler. Some people use whats called a " coolcan " which has the fuel line coiled in a can filled with ice. Inter coolers also keep the intake charge cool. ) and by a cooler air charge. Anytime you can get cooler air into a motor, it will make more power. These are two good reasons why Nitrous works as well as it does. Anybody who drag races will know that at the track, your car will drop at least a tenth as the night goes on because it got cooler out. Just my two cents worth. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

Eaglecollector, I'm sure this is just a typo.. I know you really meant to say the with the key off, engine cold, your meter should read infinate resistance (open circuit). If it read 0 ohms it would mean no resistance (closed circuit).


just in case anyone doesn't know what ohms measures, it is the ammount of resistance to flow. Flow of current that is.


anyway, my experience with the temperature switch is that moisture wreaks havoc on it. The spade connectors that are used for the connection are not sealed properly which allows moisture to penetrate into the contacts of the bimetal switch, which eventually causes it to either short to ground (probably will blow the fuse) or simply causing it to malfunction (corrosion on the bimetal strip contacts). It is possible however that a high resistance short to ground could occur in the switch causing a slow drain on the battery without buring the fuse.

I like the idea of a toggle switch also, just a little added insurance in case something goes wrong. Just make sure that the power feed for that switch is setup after the fuse.



-Tom

 

Oops...I grabbed my analog meter when i answered. When I touched the leads I read the amp numbers rather then the ohm numbers. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img] Guess i should have grabbed my digital one. human error almost removed there.