I just replaced my a-arm bushings about 3 hours of ride time ago. I greased them before and after I put them in and they went bad again. It is just the upper right side (chain side). Anyone have any clues why they might go bad so soon? What are my options? All the other bushings have no play what so ever. Is there a better set of after market ones?

 

Am I the only one with this problem? I did a search and there is very little info on this topic. I didn't want to be retarded.

 

You really do have a problem, something is binding or you have a bad surface. You're right in that this is rarely discussed, The bushings loosen a little at first and then wear very slowly after that. My 2000 DS a-arms are still doing fine.

 

If you do decide to go wit aftermarket, don’t go with American Star Racing. Yours is a 03. Are you getting this handled under warranty? At any rate. It would seem that you might have a defect in the upper or lower a-arm angles that is causing this. If you are in warranty, then I would try to get them to replace the right sides completely

 

My upper left side is a bit loose...more then it should be [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img]

 

Unfortunately, the machine is almost a year old and not under warranty. Are there any aftermarket a-arm bushings which are stronger than the stock nylon ones?

 

It seems to me that if the bushings are going out in a matter of 3 hours of ride time then there is something seriously wrong!! What are the wear patterns on the bushing like?? Is it an hourglass shape or what?

Obviously I don't have much to go on but the amount of movement in an a-arm bushing is pretty small. Something is going on there.. either mis-alignment or something is wearing on it HARD!!!

Take a closer look, describe the problem exactly and get back to us... I'm curious now!

 

I feel pretty stupid right about now. I got the new parts in and starts to dismantle the arms. I went to push out the inner steel sleeve and realized there wasn't any play at all in the nylon. There is a lot of clearance between the steel sleeve and the bolt though. I then loosened up the other side to get an idea on the torque. There is quite a lot of torque, I just wasn't tightening the bolt enough. Apparently, all the bolt's purpose is to clamp the a-arm between the two tabs. I took a guess at the torque and the play was gone. So. the first set I changed was not actually bad either. Everything seems to pivot normally, so I guess I'm right. If this is wrong please let me know. If someone knows the actual torque settings, let me know that also.

 

Seems to me there shouldnt be play between the bolt and sleeve...i havent had mine apart yet but i really feel there is something wrong.Both upper a-arms rear bushings seem to have way to much play.Wouldnt they make it a precision fit? Could someone shed some light on this for me?

 

the plastic bushings pivot around the steel sleeve that goes through them - the bolts sandwiches the steel sleeve between the two ears welded on the frame and fits farely just about right, easy to push in but no significant play if all is new. The bolt/nut should be tight, to prevent the sleeve from rotating on the bolt, as apposed to rotating in the plastic bushings. Unsure of torque spec - but good and tight for sure.

If the bolt is loose while riding, and the plastic bushing start getting gummed up so its easier for the sleeve to spin on the bolt than spin in the bushings, then the sleeve and/or bolt will be worn to cause play there.

To grease the pivots, loosen the bolts so old grease can be purged as new is pumped in, then re-tighten - do not leave loose.

the shock pivots are just like the a-arm pivots, but have no grease fitting and must be removed for cleaning and lubing, I do mine anually front and rear.