I think you basically already have a stage 1. The components of the stage II are the following. You dont have to get the RWR brand parts, you can get a lot of these components from other manufacturers and other dealers.

1) Piston. There are a lot of good choices now.

a) RWR Standard 11.5:1 piston
b) RWR NOx 11.5:1 piston
c) Then there are a number of higher compression pistons (12.5:1, 13.5:1 and 14:1) that require race gas and even alcohol.

2) Cams

a) Sport cams - Some people still carry these, RWR does not. - I think Pami and Web still has them.

I dont have any data on these

b) A1/A2 cams - This is sort of an exclusive for RWR - A lot of people like them.

Intake lift .433 in. duration 267 degrees.
Exhaust lift .406 in. duration 278 degrees.

c) Race Cams - These are a bump up in the power level from the A1/A2 cams.

Lift .425 in. duration 287 degrees.
(Intake & exhaust)


d) Race II Cams - These cams are great for high RPM power, not good for low end power.

Lift .450 in. duration 294 degrees.
(Intake & exhaust)

3) Valve Springs

a) RWR Valve Springs - Dual springs with titanium retainers - good for revs past 10,000 rpm. Just dont go past 10,000 rpm in my opinion -you'll risk valve float and the shim will --- I repeat ---- WILL leave thier buckets if you do. That will cost you big $$$$$$$.

b) Shim Under Bucket (web has these) - a bit more safety built into this design. Keeps the valve shims in-tact even if the valves float.

 

Where can I get a claimer manual. Is the bombardier manual the only manual out there. I don't think it is a very detail manual from what I seen at the dealer. 80 buck is a lot for a vague manual. I guess its better than nothing. So get the stage two first and then nos.
1. sport cams or web cams 250.00
2. 12.5 piston 250.00
3. port work 250.00 who does port work for this price
4. extra do dads gasket, sealer, shipping 100.00
5. lectron 46hv 340.00

Does this sound like a decent combo to start out with. Let me know about source if you will. In the event

 

1) Sport cams - why? Why not go more agressive now instead of something so mild
2) 12.5:1 piston - not good for NOS - RWR makes a better one for NOS - The top edge will curl under extreme heat unless the piston was designed for NOS.
3) Port work for that price - That's something you dont want to skimp on - its permanent. Find somebody with a good reputation that does that sort of thing all the time. Holeshot racing did mine, and I believe I got 2 more HP out of it comparted to others that had the same components - including head porting work. You'll spend at least $350 to $400 for something decent.

 

I still want decent bottom end. We don't have much sand around here. If I use like A1 cams how much more hp will I gain.

 

There is nothing but positive gains at all RPM levels when you go from the Sport Cams to the A1/A2 cams. That's why RWR stopped making the sport cams because there was no point. Sandman has these cams. The sport cams really are a thing of the past. In my opinion, A1/A2 and Race cams or any cams with those same specifications, are good for for all RPM ranges and tower above any sport cam specifications.

The only cams you need to steer clear of are the Race II cams, those will loose power on the low end and from your writing are not what you are looking for in your riding application.

 

I have a set of race cams .425 287 and i do a fair amount of trail/woods riding . I' m VERY happy with the performance. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] It flat out rips........But there is always room for improvement[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img]

 

mrs sandman has the a-1 now i have the web 109 or the 425, i think they live better at higher rpm which you find with a piston and porting and cams. i saw jeffroe say the a-1's sign off at 8000 rpm's and that is about what i find. the webs seem to go to about 9000 or higher.

 

Another way to do this is to get the .425 or Race Cams, (RWR or Web) then get the Vortex ignition, and a masstive 14:1 compression piston. Then use the Vortex handlebar switch to change from a retarded program for trails (true low end torque) or a race program for high RPM riding. Whamo, the best of both worlds at the flick of a switch!

 

an adjustable brain box? hmmm.........

 

Hey Mark, I haven't been hearing to many good things about that Vortex. I understand your have to be VERY careful about the timing curves you put into it or you will cause some real damage. I tell you what, run a 12:5:1 piston with bigger carb and a set of either the 109 grind cams which is the .425/287 duration cams or try Web's new cams that were developed by Samcoe that work awesome with stock valves they are called a 125+5 grind, they are a .435 lift with a 270 duration. The 109 grind actually has less duration then what is posted, instead of being a 287 duration they are actually a 260 duration. We have found that these bikes like a lot of duration for stock valves. With bigger valves you don't need a lot of duration because they are flowing that much more air. I think I would go with the A1/A2 cams personally if you have bigger valves. And they would probably work great with the stock valves also. I have a hard time believing that the a1/a2 cams sign off at 8000 r.p.m. my bike loses power drastically at 8500 r.p.m. and the a1/a2's have more duration than the 109's so they should pull even better. Make sure you get the shim under buckets also and be prepared to pay a lot of money for those darn little shims!. If you need any help let me know, I have gobs of experiance with these stupid motors now. Good luck.