Let me try to explain it this way. On your right side is the sprocket hub which doesn't come off without a special tool (it isn't going anywhere). Well when you back the nut off on the left side (counterclockwise) it presses on a washer and a clip on a raised area on the axle. When you do that it pushes the rotor spindle in toward the carrier until the slop is removed. Its kinda hard to explain but trust us, this is how you do it. Good luck. Make sure you don't overtighten, the bearings need to spin freely.

 

Hmmm....

okay. Makes more sense.
But that clip and stop (washer) that the nut comes in contact with... it's solid on the axle. How does it pull the axle over?? Is the threads the nut tightens on able to move on the axle itself?

Here's what I encountered....
I turned the nut clockwise and it just tightened against the rotor assembly. Obviously not right as it did not tighten the axle or remove the slop.
But when I had moved the nut counterclockwise it seemed to stop against that clip and washer. So I stopped trying to turn it anymore. And it hadn't taken up any slop... or not enough at that point.

Should I have tried harder? Meaning... more force counterclockwise to remove slop?? [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-mad.gif[/img]

You guys must be laughing your asses off with me.... [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]
I just can't get enough of this topic. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-frown.gif[/img]

 

Were not laughing at you....well at least I'm not. You need to tighten it some more. When the collar gets tight to the washer and clip and you keep turning it, the only thing that can happen is for the brake rotor spindle to be moved further down on the axle.

 

Thanks Crash.... I'll try it tonight.

Here I am thinking that the clip/washer is to keep the nut from backing off. Not for actual tightening or adjustment of the axle itself.

That's what I get for using my Durablue and Banshee combo theory.... it's just the opposite.

 

that threadded collar the nut is on does floats on the shaft as you suspected.
use a strap wrench on the axle nut if you got one, so as not to mar it all up with a pipe wrench.

If you tighen like I think you now understand, and the play does not go away, I hate to say it but your bearings may be toast. the bearings are tapered for greater side load strength in slides and stuff - DS is the only production quad to have them, aftermarket companies offer them for the others. these bearings are super strong and will last a long time if the they are kept in proper adjustment. riding a bike with the bearings loose will damage them, and riding with them too tight will damage them too. if your bearings need replaced, I would guess it to be from riding with them loose - either that or a seal got damaged and allowed crap/water in.

but 9 outa 10 times, its just a loose nut though - yours are probably okay. Tighten the nut just until all play is gone (bike is jacked up off the floor for inspection), then give it just a little tiny more, but don't torque the hell out of it because like I said, too tight is not good.
I ride water a lot and have over 300 hours on mine, just pulled them out a couple weeks ago for an inspection/cleaning/repacking, and they're still good as new.

And every time you got the rear jacked up for chain maintenance (after every ride), check for axle play just to be sure you always catch it quick and your bearings will last a long time, unless of course a seal gets toasted.

Oh, and this may help!! http://home.swbell.net/tharthun/home...ingpreload.htm

 

Ok... it's settled.

Hightower you just nailed it down for me. I couldn't get the words out right... but apparently I did get close since you did understand I was thinking a sliding off the threaded area on the axle shaft. It all makes sense now.

That quad has about 3 rides on it totalling about 3 hours max. But... my fourth ride was a 350 miler in Mexico and/or about another 16hours. And I know the bearings were a little loose then, or for the entire ride. But not too bad. I'm sure they may be prematurely worn.... but maybe not completely shot. We'll see tonight when I tighten it all up.

Again... thanks for the info!!!

 

some joker had a late night and cam in to Bomb hungover one morning - he's the guy that probably tightened the pinch bolt on your axle nut! Sorry for your luck, hope you're lucky and they're okay.
If you gotta replace them, let us know and we'll give you a couple tips on axle removal - like how to break that hub nut torqued to 180ft/lbs!!

 

DONE....
She seems all good.

Tightened it up snug, not too tight, not too loose. And then tightened the two pinch bolts on the swingarm. WHa-la! It was nice and snug all around. Amazing when you do it right. But... sooo confusing for us Banshee guys.

And for the wheel spindle... it's called 1/2" pneumatic babay!!! I had to change my rear sprocket from stock to a 37.... and found it was tight then. But it came off with little of MY effort. It was all the air gun's effort. Same with the countershaft.... it was tight too. And when I went to a 17 up front... I had to shave the case saver quite a bit. I used again, another air tool with a teardrop tip. Pretty simple.

It's all relative.
I see guys on here complaining about this and that. About who's faster. About who's got a better made quad...etc...etc. Simply, there is not one necessarily better in my opinion. But there are cheaply made quads. And the Bomb has to one of the best built for strength and durability I think. I'm finding that out as I work on it. It's amazing. But then... the weight is the drawback. I personally don't care how heavy it is. I use mine for Baja and Desert. I'm not a hill racer or drag king. There's no personality in it. No skill. But hey.... the forums wouldn't be here if others didn't have an opinion!! (sorry... got off on a tangent)

ANYWAY....
Thanks you guys for the help on the swingy!! I got it nailed down. SOOO simple!!!

 

A little advice. Leave that air gun in its holster when putting lug nuts on. The nuts are locknuts and are so tight that they will grab and start threading the bolts out the backside of the hub! So then instead of having bolt head holding on backside and nut on the front, youve got all that torque on the aluminum threads.

Even taking them off the nut will pull threads off of bolt at high rpms.

I now have all new bolts, 6 out of 8 of them are held by JB weld.

Just a little warning...since youre trigger happy like me!!!!

Dave