Well I got my 720 running. It was making a wierd claking sound from the motor. The oil light stayed on. We let it run for about 5 seconds the oil still stayed on. I let it sit then fired it again. We removed the oil filter and there was no oil in it. I remvoed the bleeder screw and cranked it until oil came out. Ran it again the oil light stayed on briefly. There was still a clacking and it lessened. I finally heard the chirpy sound the Trinity has. It was running for a bit... I cracked the throttle and it died. It seems to starve a bit for gas. I also noticed the lectron's vent tubes were peeing gas out. My friend keeps knocking the carb and swears by his Ron Wood setup. Any ideas? I haven't removed the plug yet (cause someone seemed to have lost my deep socket) but I will go out later. It doesn't want to start at all now even tho I can hear the piston moving up and down. At least I had it running for a little bit and now it's cooling down.

I hope nothing is screwed.

 

have you checked your oil tank screen to be sure it's not getting clogged? i always bleed the oil before starting.

where is the sound coming from? the valve cover area or the crankcase?

how much valve clearance do you have?

 

Sounds seemed to be coming out of the valve cover area. It also seemed to diminished. If I ever rebuild I will bleed. This has been a learning experiece. I can't get the blasted thing fired up again however. My friends suggest it's not getting fuel.

I also went to sears and got the proper socket. Spark Plug seems fine. No metal fragments and it's a light tan.

 

if the valve clearance is too large (wrong shims) there will be valve train noise.

what octane do you have in the tank and what compression ratio?

 

Compression is a supposed 12:5.1 and I'm using 100 octane cam II gas. Perhaps it's big. I asked Gary and he said they are adjusted.

 

i don't know how the lectron 44 works, but you might try going richer on the pilot circuit.

 

If the carb vent tubes are dripping you may be getting too much Gas, check the bowl float, sometimes these stick or don't seat properly and flood the engine, check the throttal cable and varifiy it's not held open a little. I wouldn't think no oil for a few seconds would have screwed it up. Scooby's right about the valves, it's eazy to check em but the tank has to come off 1st.

 

I agree about the carb. Had may float stick and fuel came out the vent tubes. The vent tubes are a lot like if a toilet is clogged.

Don't start your engine in the future without getting oil pressure first. You can easily do this by bleeding the oil line then turning the key on and the red kill switch in the off position. Crank over the engine until you get oil out the bleed screw then close it and crank until the red light goes off (you now have oil pressure.) The red light will go back on when you stop cranking but, once you have primed the oil pressure you know you have lubrication.

Did you use assembly lube when putting everything together? If not, you have metal to metal contact on your head (cams & valve buckets (or shims).

There is a plug in the cases that is just behind the cam chain tensioner. After a build pull that plug and pour some oil in there (at least a pint). You don't want things moving around for long without oil in there.

What kind of cam chain tensioner do you have? Stock or one of the manual cam tensioners? That could be your clanking. Most poeple that run the stock with your set-up have experienced cam chain noise (especially at lower RPM's.)

 

Dune Me no .. i didn't use any assembly lube. Gary was very vague on how to slap this thing together. I asked him questions and I couldn't think of them all. He answered all my questions but no notes or anything on install. I do have a stock cam chain tensioner. I'm going to look for that plug. I did throw a heavy weight oil all over the head area before assembly but it did sit in the motor uncranked a few weeks. It's also cold as hell here in NJ. Once I get it all running ideling and all.. I will change the oil ASAP and then test ride.


God KNOWS when and if I can resolve this. My battery is absolutely dead. What kills me is this is a replacement battery and I never rode once with it. I'll look into the carb thing once I get a new battery. As it ended it didn't want to fire at all last time I had juice to crank it.

I don't know if the float is sticking... it does seem to be floating when gas is entering the bowl (the bowl is translucent, you can see the gas in there).

 

First thing I would suggest is borrow or buy a battery charger. The motor will not start until the battery is fully charged. You don't need to buy a new battery! The starter will still turn the motor without giving spark to the motor.

Second, make sure you have fuel going to the carb. No debris in the line clogging the line.

Third, make sure your needle is in a rich setting. If this carb was not set up for your bike, and you are not sure what a rich setting on the needle is, tell us what the needle is. 0-4, or 1-4, or 2-4....19-4, tell us what the needle says.

Fourth, make sure that the little needle and seat in the bowl is not clogged. This is the part that the floats push up against to shut off the fuel when there is to much fuel in the bowl. If you purchased this carb used, the person before might have had some sand or dirt get in there and had the same problem, but did not know how to fix it.

Once you have done all of this, then try and start it.

DuneDevil