Entomber,

I had a thought - do you still have the stock carburetor? Perhaps you should hook that up, and see how it runs on that. By doing this you should be abgle to deduce if the problem is engine or carburation related, then you can start investigating the right area.

It sounds to me like you've tried many changes on the Lectron, with only minor success - I would start looking for other items to test. When testing, you aren't always looking for improvement, depending on what you are doing, even seeing what fails worse than other solutions really tells you what direction to go in.

the more expensive solution is you could buy one of Mr. HPs Lectrons & be done with it!

 

air you running the stock air tube or carb mount filter if your not try that it leaned out my bike a lot.

 

I'm running the stock air snorkel, what I did to simplfy life is I cut the other two intake hoses down. I need also to put clamps on the long intake tube, however I didn't notice it collapsing.

Blackhawk when money allows it I will buy a 46HV setup already by Eric. Eric did work on my carb. I bought it used and he set it for me.. thing is like an idiot I messed with it. I put it at a measurement he sugguested I had it and I tinkered with it like that.

The bike runs, it doesn't do anything funny other than wants to shut off on it's own at idle (again prob running rich). Tomorrow I'm going to play, play, play with this thing until it's right (hopefully). I could leave it the way it is... it's not acting up or anything and again my buddy (who rides dirtbikes) rode my DS and agreed it much faster now. He was impressed. He mentioned it was a strong, smooth and very wide powerband. I would like it more abrupt, but......it defintely feels strong.

 

Are you running the stock air box as well? It seems to me you wouldn't have the other two tubes if you had removed the air box, right? It appears that you run in water which would explain the desire for the airbox as well. Why did you opt to cut down the snorkel tubes?I simply mounted mine on the outside of the chassis, which worked rather well. Check my pics & you'll see how I did it.

 

Yes Blackhawk I'm running the stock airbox (as per MrHP recomendation). I played with it today. I leaned it out as far as it will allow me to start. I rode it down the street and indeed it did lunge forward and back (I'm assuming it leaned out too much). So I riched it up a notch and barreled it down the street. I raised the idle up and it seems to not cut out on its own anymore. Feels good but still doesn't get the front end up effortlessly. I did powershift and in 2nd gear the front end became lighter but it wasn't to the point I had to let off the throttle. Tomorrow hopefully I slap my dinky paddles on and duke it out with my Stage III buddy.

 

what kind of paddles are you running?

 

I first had Skat Trak's Edges, but they didn't hold up long (we have rough terrain mixed with the sand here.. it's not all soft) so I came across a DS with a set of paddlemasters. I read that they hold up very well. Well I got them and it's true they hold up very well but they are too small of a tire (they don't float well) and are very heavy. At least they will provide better traction than the shredders I have (by the way Shredders are an awsome dirt tire, all those knobbies that DS defintely put the power to the ground with them) in the soft stuff.

Reluctantly I did it today. I finally went to a 15 tooth front sprocket. It was kind of getting late so I didn't really hammer it but what a difference it makes lifting the front end. I can only imagine if I went 14 tooth. I might order one just to see what it is like. I didn't see any gasket in that area and indeed a 30mm socket fits that nut like a glove. I used an impact wrench to take it off and to put it on. I hit it with a few zaps to ensure it's on there tight and adjusted that metal plate to hold the nut in place so it doesn't accidentially break loose.

At ideling the carb shut off, but seems like it takes it longer to shut the bike down. I think it might have run better rich. I will find out tomorrow. I'm bringing my flat head screw driver to further the tuning.

My DS is near perfect to what I wanted it to be...now if I can bet my Stage III buddy it was all worth it...

Nex two mods are programable rev box and Lectron 46 HV (that is near 1 grand right there .... does it ever end?)

 

paddle masters, if you lose it's the tires, i saw those once they look like solid tire. how much do they come in at on the scale.

 

Well since my last crash one bead popped off on one of the paddlemasters and I just didn't have enough time to pop them back in for our ride. One thing that happened was the red light came on but no fan going. I had coolant leaking also but I think it's from the overflow tank (which I accidentially over filled). I think I might just need a new connection for fan to work and the thumb throttle slide is sticking sometimes (like revving on it's own). Still a few more bugs to work out.

 

Entomber,

I had a serioly bad case of sticking thumb throttle this weekend due to sand getting into it. (It was somewhat of a sandstorm at Dumont this weekend.) The problem is when Moose (and I bet TerryCable) made the throttle they got stupid & forgot that dirt & sand will stick to any kind of wet lubricant. So, my throttle started sticking REALLY BAD - just when I was starting to dial her in. (Initially I gained 5 MPH and 1000 RPM over the stock carb on the hill.) My first run after adjusting the throttle cable yielded an extra 2 MPH and it pulled much harder as well. Then my throttle stuck.

The solution is to use a lubricant that dirt & sand wont stick to. Enter the Graphite powder dry lube. I haven't tried this yet, but that is what I'm going to try and see how that works - if your throttle isn't moving well then the game is pretty much over. I drove 3.5 hours each way to Dumont yesterday and got in about 30 minutes of riding. I think if there hadn't been sand blowing around I probably could have rode all day.