i assume you already know you need more than just the carb itself?
ported intake
new carb boot
new throttle assembly (be it the moose billet thumb, or a twist throttle)
new cable (needed with twist?)
and shipping which brings it to be somewhere in the 725 range(with the moose throttle, probably like 75 less with the twist). (anyone correct me if im wrong)

ya i too will be buying my carb (if its a lectron) through him, hes a great guy and had done so much in improving the ds community.

 

You can get an 11:1 piston with any kit. You don't need race gas with that compression.

 

Roost & anyone else considering modifications,

Bar none, you should NOT go internal on the engine, until you have got all of your bolt on parts installed. Unless you've got all of your basics done first there is no way to realize the full potential of the internal parts which means you are wasting money. When you buy your bolt ons, you should be thinking ahead to what internal mods you think you will want in one to two years so that you don't have to buy a CDI or other part twice.

That would be like buying 35" tires & rims before you've got the lift kit on your truck. Sure you can do it but people will probably laugh at you. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img]

I would definitely go for the carburetor, I like the Lectron myself but as you know the TM45 isn't a bad unit and has it's merits. Once you have all of your bolt ons done, and you are reasonably satsfied with your purchases if you plan to wait a year or more before going internal, you should also consider having your engine dyno tuned by someone who truly knows what they are doing. If you aren't planning on changing it for a couple of years, why not spend a few bucks and get the most out of the engine you can for that time period.

I'd suggest keeping your big gun CDI until -after- you try out whatever new mods you get. You Big Gun is better than the stocker so you certainly aren't loosing there. The Vortex is hot right now, and getting hotter as more and more people work with it. It is also great that each engine builder can make their own curves etc for it so even if you buy the CDI from shop A shop B can still make it work even better for you - this makes for a very good investment right there.

Concerning what the carburetor will do for you: (Keep in mind, I have the stock CDI on my Baja which kicks in at 7900 RPM, not 7700 like on the 00 - 01 DSs.)

On the stock carburetor, I really never hit the rev limit unless I was at a stop and revving the engine. The ATV was fun, and getting better as I added the porting and other goodies. Once I installed the Lectron, it would pick up RPMs so fast that my current tires don't keep up and they do a lot of spinning. I am constantly bouncing off the rev limiter, any time I gas it hard, it grabs RPMs about as fast as you could imagine. It has added power all over, and just makes riding that much more fun. (I think one reason I DO NOT need a new clutch is because my tires spin enough to keep from slipping the clutch!) When racing up competition hill at Dumont before I got everything perfectly dialed in I had gained about 5 - 7 MPH top speed up the hill and 1000 RPMs. I now go up the hill at 7000 RPMs instead of 6000. I'm really looking forward to hitting Dumont early this season to see how it runs the hill now that I've got it dialed in perfectly.

The TM45 in all fairness would have done some magic as well, I don't know if it would be as much, however I chose the Lectron for other reasons: because it wasn't what everyone else is running, after three years I still hadn't been sold on the TM45, the person who sells the model I bought dyno tunes -everything- which I REALLY like (to me, this indicates I'm getting maximum HP out of each item I install, not just more HP than I had; but Max possible = more bang for the buck,) and the support I've recieved in getting my carburetor dialed in has been unparalleled.

 

Being the adept "shade tree" mechanic that I am, I did my own port work. I will make the stock thumb throttle work. Not all that big of a deal to do some fabricating.

 

right now im thinking carb... (which brings me back to WHICH...lol) and then once i get that, then consider changing cdi's

if i were to do carb/vortex i dont think i would do anything more than that (but then again, when i first got it i said i wasnt doing more than a pipe/filter...)

hmmmm i have the ported intake, so i would need billet throttle setup for each of the lectrons which puts them at
46= 725
44= 425ish
tm 45 = 300?400?

anyone have a link handy to the dyno testing mr hp did months back? (that dyno testing was with tm/46hv right?)

only thing that make the tm and the 44 stand out is the approx 200 dollar savings (would basically buy me the cdi, after selling current one) but i dont want to skimp on the carb now to not get what i wanted later. the difference between the 46 and 44 i guess is 2hp.

anyone know if i can run the airbox but without snorkels/lid with any of the 3 carbs? (i dont ride in Too much wet stuff, but i would want at least the bottom/sides protected from getting splashed.

besides chopping up the stock throttle is ther another option (besides twist) that could save money on the HV? (i know a few people have gotten "creative" but i dont want anything that isnt reliable or hard to pull.

 

Roost, I have the vortex a well, its great, but I wouldnt spend more money right now if you have one. Remember in the carbs, they are rated on stock bore engines, start sprucing them up and the gap gets larger, something to remember down the road if you do go to internal mods. You could just leave the airbox on and remove the lid and snorkels, if you had to you could cut come more of it away to get more air flow but get some protection also. I cut my stock throttle assembly to make it work. It does work but I will be upgrading to the moose later.

 

Roost,

Go with the billet throttle on either carburetor, this will be better for either one. If your considering costs, then buy the thumb throttle and accessories first, then carburetor second.

The link to the testing can be found here:

http://www.hpresearch.net/

On the left hand side of the page look for a link that says "Dyno Testing." The results were close that day, only 1HP peak difference. (Assuming you or I could tune a TM45 as Well as The Bom and Mr.HP - not a chance for me, perhaps other people are more confident?) However, the best quote from Eric is "Did somebody say I was done making power?" and he has already found another two HP on the 46HV bringing it up to 53 HP.

 

are there any known flaws/problems with the HV? it sounds like the carb i want, as long as there arnt any glitches.

i think if the 46 is a problem free carb ill go with that, and a set of razr 2's (unless i find somthing else decent to put the power to the ground, that isnt 200 shipped for 2 tires)

 

Roost,

I didn't get my 46HV setup quite correctly the first time around so it was problematic in the throttle stickyness department. (My cable got sand in it because I didn't seal it up correctly - scratch that I didn't seal it up at all!) However I worked with Eric, who went out of his way to help me and now I can say it is the picture of perfection with no problems. (Even after a hellishly windy weekend at Pismo Beach, so I KNOW it kept the sand out this time!) Everyone has heard of the throttle stickyness right off idle - well, when this carburetor is setup right it is easy enough a girl can operate the throttle. (I'm eventually going to be giving this mildly modified DS to my Fiance and I have to make sure it is something she can handle for long periods and not complain, and at this point it is.) If you get the Lectron, be sure to get exact instructions from Eric on how to get it setup correctly and sealed perfectly on both ends so that you don't have the issues I had. (even still the performance was amazing!) You can PM me and I can let you know some of the pitfalls I had & what we did to fix them, but Eric knows all of what went on so he can get you setup correctly.

I've heard great reviews about the Razr 2s, not sure where they compare to the ITP Holeshot XCTs that I have, but from everything I can tell they are virtually the same tire with a different name on them. I really like my XCTs so I'm sure you will enjoy the Razr 2s. You might look on eBay for the tires, especially if you aren't in a hurry - the casual buyer always finds the best deals.

If you are drag racing the heavier 6 ply tires aren't a good idea, but when I'm on dirt it is all about fun so the extra weight is fine considering all of the flats that I dont get & don't have to worry about!

 

it looks like the razr II in size 22x11x9 is a 4ply (the 20x11x9 right above it says 6 ply in paranthesis, but the 22 dosnt have anything, so i assume its a 4)

were you having throttle issues with the billet throttle, or a stock one?