if you were me...had the same mods as i do (pipe/filter/ported intake/cdi/clutch springs) and had a limit of 1k (preferably less) to spend on the DS what would you buy?
46hv carb (725 with throttle setup)
44 mm lectron (500ish with new throttle setup)
TM 45 carb (somewhere around 400)

turbos/efi/big bores kits are def out

cams? piston? (dont want to run race fuel/alky highest i could go is premium 93 octane)

what would you buy? I know a lot of you have hundreds of hours worth of testing/riding DS with varying mods, and lots of time inside the engine, and seeing how this is probably the last major thing going on the bike, i wanted to make it a GOOD one.

im getting mixed signals about carbs, and not having much experience with the DS engine and how it performs with various mods just looking to see what you guys would do. I just want a reliable machine with good power and a smooth torquey powerband.

 

a shop manual. then i would go inside the engine. dssleuth has a modded ds with stock carb, it does pretty well. think he is into it less than a grand

 

ya im buying one of those shop manuals on CD, so i dont have to spend the 40/50 for a paper one.

 

46hv, it will wake that thing right up!

 

Or a nitrous setup, there fun.

 

I think I would upgrade to the Vortex CDI.
http://www.vortex-performance.com.au/prod02.htm

The following is an excert from one of Ironron's replys on CDI's

The big difference with the Vortex, is that you can switch to bring the power down (traction curves) to the lower RPM bands thus increasing torque. Advatages from this curve are also had when running exotic fuels at the high RPM level with a low RPM power (traction curve) switched on.

This is what I got from the other threads...

================ Vortex power curves ==================

1) Performance Maps (where the power curve really comes on at higher RPM)
There are 2 Performance maps (Rev limits set at 8,900 and 8,350 rpms) Position 1 & 7.

2) Traction Maps (where the power curve really comes on at low RPM - good for trail riding - high torque needs)
There are 3 traction maps (Rev limits set at 8,350) Position 2, 3 4.

3) Linear Power (where the power is evenly distributed throughout the RPM range)
There are 2 linear maps (Rev limits set at 8,350) Position 5 & 6.

4) Standard Map (like the stock map)
There are 3 standard maps (Rev limits set at 8100, 8400 & 8600 rpms) Position 8, 9 and 0


The map on the performance switch 'A' on the handle bar is fixed at curve 1 = Performance map at 8900 RPM. The Traction switch 'B' is any curve you have selected on the <FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow">CDI</FONT>.

Clear as mud?

The difference between the traction curve and the performance curve is very noticiable. If you flip the switch going 45MPH you hear and feel the difference. The torque improvement is huge on the bottom end. Nice smooth idle for all curves and a good performance curve.

The following is a reply from 1prokiwi on the Vortex CDI... on the dyno there is 5Hp difference in the power between Performance and Traction 2

Interesting note , i find if im racing on an oval track in 3/4th gear i get better drive in Traction mode , when i go to power mode i get too much wheel spin ....... and tend to slide too wide ...

definately a good choice ... I found sand hills need power mode , traction mode no good going up the big hills ...

hope that helps

 

i agree with baja rider, a cdi will defently make a noticeable change in your powerband....i was VERY pleased that i bought one. but i am still a fan of a good carb is were your engine begins and ends on making good horse power.i would either go with a mikuni or a lectron...i cant speak for the lectrons but i have heard a lot of good things about it. if u have a thousand dollers to spend u might be able to get both..good luck roost.

 

What Sandmans said!

For under $1k you can get the Glamis Stage II upgrade or the Ron Wood Stage II upgrade from On Dunes.

Get the 11:1 or 11.5:1 piston for 93 octane gas.

Get the Race 1 cams (Axtel, A1/A2, etc.) Unless you do a lot of hill climbing and want that top end power. For more trails stay with the cams I have said.

 

i already have the big gun cdi. I wonder where the Big gun has the power? (if its set up as linear, or if it is concentrated low/high...)

seeing as i already have a cdi, i dont think i want to change at the moment (if i find the need for it later on down the road i can always sell the big gun...but im happy with it right now)

**edit** hmmm that cdi is interesting... has it come down in price? when it first came out it was too advanced for me (the way i heard it explained was confusing, and i thought before it was like 500/550... looks like it is about 400 now)

so i could do vortex cdi/new carb
OR stage II with no new carb...

i dont have experience with before and after of new piston/cams on anything really...but i have seen write ups and comparisons on what carbs bring to the table (i think carbs average somthingl ike 5hp gain?)

i assume a carb upgrade would be equal throug the entire power band (maybe have good hit somewhere?) but from my little knowledge about pistons/cams is that they are usually specialized for varying applications (low for woods, high for drags) i was looking at the glamis II kit and saw it came with the choice of MR HP 14 or 12 to 1 pistons. on-dunes says the 14:1 can only be run on a minimum of 98 octane. That would pose a problem for me (not so much a serious Problem, but a nuisance) as all the stations in my county that i know of only go as high as 93 (i have heard a few people talk about race gas, but i think it was an out-of-town deal)
so i guess that puts the glamis kit out? do they make a "mid range" cam? is it actually JUST middle power, or is it spread bottom to top? (i dont want weak bottom/hard mid/soft top) i like everything to be smooth and equal. If they make cams to fit that application, i could maybe do cams/carb?
seeing as how the cdi makes a 5 hp difference between low/top that along with the carb may suit me better (as sometimes we ride with my buddies parents/friends where cruising is in the 10-25 range, then we when we are at the dunes/fields is usually pinned in one of the upper gears.

thanks a lot for voicing your opinions/knowledge on this stuff, without it i would probably be buying 1k dollar custom plastics , or trying to fit a lazy boy to the frame [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

Heres my 2 cents. I will be purchasing the Mr. HP Lectron in a few mins. I know the price is a little bit high, but I figure the extra money as a contibution to the MR. Hp improve the DS racing fund. My purchase of the Lectron is in apprication of the work that Mr. HP has done, not to mention the performance increase that the carb should bring. Ok im done putting Eric over, this 550 bucks better pay off.