Hightower , do you need anything special to run the tm 45 ? (like new throttle housing, ported intake , intake boot) Can you run it with the stock airbox on ? Do you have a good setup for the stock motor ? (that you wouldn't mind shareing) That throttle sticking issue keeps running thru my head and I don't want to experience that ! Can I get one from the local harley shop and is it the same as what woods sells ? (is there a reg. version and a hv version ) Thanks for your help .

 

I can chim in on some of these since Hightower helped me with mine. I ported my own intake per some specs in topics I searched for on this fourm. ( opend it up to 47mm left the vein all the way till the end drilled out the mounting holes one size larger). the TM45 If I recall right you cant just buy one off the shelf from a Harley shop, there is a part that is differnt I want to say the munting neck to the carb side. I run the acc. pump w/ the softer spring. all I needed to do (per HT instructions) is to take the soft spring and wind it up tighter put it in and test it. you may need to do this a couple of times to get it right. mine has been a dream. Ive ran with the air box (lid off) on and off completly. I like it off completly but this my not be a option in riding conditions. the intake boot works just fine, I cut out the rib inside of the boot to.
my jetting is 155 main, 30 pilot ( i could go smaller) ,96 needle- clip in third poss.,#50 acc. pump noz.

hope this helps!

Sam

 

Sam, what elevation are u running at? Im tryin to jet mine correctly and i have close to the same u have.

 

~ use the stock throttle cable, its superior and all you gotta do is grind off the hex nut on the end careful not to damage cable and it'll slip right into the sleeve on the TM45
~ Don't bother increasing carb size unless you also increase port size, otherwise the upgrade was futile
~ The $7 carb boot from RWR is a better mount than the original rubber boot. Maintain the intake boot from airfilter to carb, its better HP and torque thana carb moutn filter.
~ ditto what Sam said on throttle tension, if its too stiff for you, aquire the sft spring and do some twisting to make it work with the pumper. further help can be given if needed, just PM.
~ get the tuning guide for $12, very good instructions on how to set idle mix and pilot selection.

 

Thanks Guys

 

NickDS650
Im prob around 500-700 ft not sure to be exact. Im running no air box for the summer cuz its been pretty dry up here. I pulled my plugs recently and there faintly brown w/ carbin around the bottom of threds. the pilot I think can go smaller I can turn it all the way out w/ no effects on the engine rpm. I just havent goten to the dealer yet. A dyno would really be nice to dial it in !! but theat requires some bucks that I dont have[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img] . so I just go with seat of the pants and I time my 300' runs. for some reason though and this could be because of the pilot she will require me to give here some gas before she will start warm or cold but not all the time. again I need to get some pilots and get here fine tuend. the rest of the carb does awsome.

are you leaving the rubber intake between the carb and filter on? if yes than good, also if you havent, put some clamps around that intake to, to keep it from vibrating under acceleration. I used heavy wire and wraped it around the intake to firm it up you can see it in one of my pics.
Sam

BTW nice pics

 

I do have that carb to filter hose on yes, put hose clamps on to stop collapsing from occuring, that was killing me when i first put my 45 carb on. That wheelie pic is pretty cool, what temp paint did u use on ur engine, i been lookin for orange and only see it online, lookin into local shops to gettin it in if its cheaper. Id like to paint in the "Trinity Racing" emblem thats engraved in my pipe, maybe do some engine paintin as well, urs looks sharp

 

Say what jetting for Glamis?? stock other than K/N and a open HP endcap??

 

Sam the carbon on the bottom of the threads most likely is from rich needle, that's why I and lots use the 97 needle.
quite often people mistakenly run lean on the main trying to get rid of that rich soot being formed, not realizing its being made down at 1/4 - 1/2 throttle, thus sacrificing top end. the difference in needle diameters from the 96 to 97 is only like .0003" if memory serves, but it makes a significant difference. the carbs typically come with a 96 needle, but IMO the 97 is better suited for most applications including 720's and 760's too.

 

NickDS650,
all I used was enamal paint from tru- valu hardware on the engine. the exhaust has chevy orange 1200 Deg. paint. the exhaust can of your muffler i would recomends at least 500 deg. it my not get that hot but the plane jane paint wont hold up very well to the temps it does reach.
just as a idea take the 500deg. paint that you like in a can, spray it in a puddle and dip your brush in that. I would do a small spot first then go from there to see if you like. the only thing the hi temp paint is flat no gloss. take some pics and post when you get done!!!
Sam

BTW I was doing some test runs tonight w/ a 160 main ( was @ 155) and it ran awsome. that was the largest main I got. I ran about 8 times wide open down a 300' run and my plugs still look light. I will do some more test tomorow w/ a stop watch. to see if im gaining or losing may be get a 165 main and run it its worth a try. having no air box on this thing lets it suck alot of air!!