alright after about 500 bucks in starter parts finally got the thing running again...

the only reason im keeping it for now is because i havnt decided on a new quad yet, and kind of want to wait till the 06's come out (or at least we hear what they will be) till i pick a new one...

went to start it after all the new parts were in...battery dead (pretty sucky, as this was my NEW battery...only 3 weeks old, and wont take a charge at all)
so ordered a odyessey orange batt (heavier than hell, but at least it works, and hey...its orange)

finally got it running again....

It seemed like it could use a tune-up (last time i ran it was probably in the 90s...and its been running relatively cool lately) seemed like it had good power/response all over...but was running even hotter than normal (fan was on constantly, NEVER was off....ever after sitting for a few minutes, which almost makes me wonder if its an oil/coolant circulation problem.)

well i farted around with the jetting... used EVERY needle position (im getting lightning quick at changing needle positions...lol probably about a minute) but first clip it wouldnt even run without the choke, and 2-felt about the same.... (maybe a bit worse the closer it was to 1) this was all with the quiet core in..which i figured would richen it, but apparently i was mistaken.

so im thinking hmm... maybe its just too lean... i pop in the 45 pilot and start fiddling again.... still has this horrible flat spot in the middle (trying to pull 2nd/3rd gear from a slow roll fomr 2-5k it is horribly flat, but hits hard at 5+)

does anyone have that little diagram that shows exactly what throttle position is affected by what? i know set screw is idle/just off idle... then pilot is up to about a 1/4 throttle? needle 1/4-3/4 and then the main obviously WOT? (but the different circuits overlap a bit right?)

well it seemed a bit better with the 45 in... i decide to pull the quiet core back out, needle still at 5th position with a washer under it (fat as it will go) and the 45 pilot.... it seems a bit flatter then when i first started, which makes me think its still a bit fat...but i figure id rather be safe than sorry...

im a bit worried about riding, as i totally forgot that my red light went out (i pulled fascia and dash off, and if i yank on the wires connected to that red oil led, it will sometimes stay on if i hold it in the right position... which makes me think its a bad connection somewhere) so im a bit worried that since i just changed the oil, and its running quite hot, that either
A) i just wasted an hour on jetting
B) I have an air bubble in the oil and its not circulating (i did put about a good 30-45 mins of riding in today, so surely if it wasnt getting oil it would have blown up by now right? lol)
C) my coolant isnt flowing (clogged line/ stuck impeller?) i love the fact that i just now got the idea to touch the radiator and see if it was hot (i think im ADD...lmao)

so i guess my questions out of all of this are....
1. how would one go about checking the wiring to that led? i tried the pressure switch (thanks to hightower) but still same thing, and it seems it has to be the wiring (if it was the led, they basically WORK or DONT WORK right?)
2. if i have a flat spot in the middle (dont really know what throttle position it would be...but somewhere between 1/4-3/4, going from a slow roll maybe 10mph in second gear (from about 2k rpm) punching it, it is really flat, then picks up once the main jet gets a say in things.
what would need attention? (pilot/needle? i cant go any richer at this point since im bottom'd out the needle and my only other pilots are down)
3. Should i be riding this thing if its running hot and my light isnt on? ok well i know the answer to this...its YES im too pissed at this thing and have spent far too much cash to not ride it for a few hours tomorrow at the badlands. but if it dosnt blow up (if it does i may be opening the back of the trailor and pushing the POS out the back @ 80... ) what would the pros check first?

i plan to take my digital temp guage with me tomorrow to check cyliner heat (hoping some other nerd on here has a temp guage and has nothing better to do than to check the temps of inside their ear and the engine head/cylinder area on the ds) i will also check the radiator...

im hoping the thing is just doing its normal "i must run hot or not at all" deal.... and i dont actually have a problem.

alright well im too tired/lazy to proof read the huge load of crap i just typed (sorry if it wanders off and dosnt make sense...)

ill check it in the morning before i go, and once im back tomorrow night.

(this forum, and feeling the torque of the ds today almost makes me want another...BAH! lol)

Thanks guys

 

I think you would have seized your motor by now if your weren't getting oil. It's easy to visually verify that you have oil circulating, you just take off the oil reservoir cap( up by the dash) and shine a light in to see if there is return flow from motor draining into the top portion of the oil tank- you'll see oil flowing. Get your oil light fixed! Trace the wires to the sending units (pressure and overtemp) make sure it's not loose some where( this is not a problem I've seen or heard of) Are your running the TM45? do you have the accelerator pump activated?
Over heating, I have found is more common when the idle mixture is too lean and is when most guys see the head pipes glow- I always richened up my idle screw to the point that the headers quite glowing, this is easiest to do at night when the glowing was most visible. The bike seemed to have the fan come on less if I kept the idle setting a little fat.

 

the red light should have positive power to it always, the oil pressure switch makes the ground connection. that is why the oil pressure sensor only has one wire going to it. + ignition power to the red light, - to the switch, the switch makes connection to ground and the light comes on. it should alwys be on if the key is on and motor is not running, if it is not then first check for + power at the red light, if there is + power to the light then the problem is the wire from light to oil pressure switch, assuming of course the red light works.

about your jetting, stock needle postion is 4th groove, if you're running a leaner groove than that then you are definitely lean in your midrange from 1/4 to 3/4 throttle, nobody runs a stock carb on a groove less than 4 - and the typical would be the 5th (BOTTOM) groove. Since you'r running that quiet core then I can see maybe going back to the 4th, but there's nothing you're gonna do to the exhaust that would necesitate 1st-3rd grooves.

the 45 pilot should be good, my stock was 40 and I upped to 45 for better cold weather perfromance in winter.
Idle mix screw can definitely be responsible for overheating while sitting at idle - I don't remember where it belongs on the stock carb but seems like 3.5 turns out from seated, do a search in old posts to find out, its hard to reach on the bike. on this particular screw turning it out richens - on other carbs like the TM45 the scew leans the idle when turned out.

you need a coolant temp guage though, because you don't really know if you are hot or not, just because the fan is running doesn't mean you're hot, its meant to run whenever you are riding slow in low gears on technical trails when there's little air flowing through the radiator. too many people freak over the fan kicking on because the DS fan runs more often than alot of other bikes. the red light would tell you if you were overheating, but its integrity is uncertain right now. but keep in mind that the fan comes on at 204 degrees, which is not too hot, and the red light doesn't come on until 239 degrees, meaning that even if you get up around 210 degrees, which is as high as mine ever gets, that is not too hot, since 239 is the factory limit for warning.

 

alright thanks for the replies HT/echo. Got through the day ok... (im a little pissed though....after all that time with the headers and right side cover off, fresh gasket and used silicon around that rubber gasket...and now it leaks a bit out the bottom.... GRRR.... (i might try tightening all the bolts and running a line of silicon between the two pieces and hope that keeps it out...lol)

ya i finally took that stupid quiet core out and it ran a LOT better (the adjusting of the carb actually had an effect this time) But now my question is this: When riding around its fine, with 175 main, 45 pilot, needle in position farthest from the top (5th i think) and idle screw anywhere from 1/2 turn to 5 turns out it does this>> after riding up a hill (dont know if its so much going up a hill...but usually once i go up...i come down) on the way down the quad will just shut off.... i figure ok its got to be rich/lean on the screw, so i spent a solid 30 minutes with a screwdriver and hopping off every 1-2 mins... seemed the problem was there no matter what position the idle screw was at (which didnt make a whole lot of sense to me... the quad ran different/lean/rich but that dying never went away, unless i kept it at like 2500 rpm while down the hills)

could it be an issue with the floats?

i plan to get that light fixed or get an inline temp guage (or both..if i can scrape it up) before i do anymore riding as not having that light freaks me out....

thanks again guys. O and chris, are you still racing the ironman? the date i have in my head is last weekend in october. Let me know if your still doing it, because i think i can get that weekend off and it would be awesome to watch [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]