i see alot of talk about diffrent stroker kits. i know in the next year or so im going to need to do a crank and i figure i might as well but a full stroker kit while im at it. so what im really looking for is who makes the most realiable stroker. i dont want problems just a strong motor. im currently around 60 hp with stock bore and stroke. so i figure i should see another 10 hp with more head work and a good stroker.

 

click the gallery button on the upper right. select the letter M. scroll down to MisterHP and check out his dyno results. Not bad stroker numbers for a thumper.....

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Let's first tell you all the strokers out there.

Pami is the first to do the stroker in the DS and has the most experience. They offer a 760 stroker and bore and a 703 stroker and bore. The 760 is a whole new jug that will run you a pretty penny. The 703 uses your stock jug but bores it out from 100mm to 102mm (Pami has a used 102mm jug available right now - ask The Bom about it.)

Falicon Cranks I think was the next (Calendar wise) to offer a stroker - offers a kit to stroke your stock bore with a roller bearing crank (stock crank uses a brass - solid - oil type - bearing.) Total displacement goes to 715cc (stock bore.)

TVI offers the stroker along with a re-sleeved jug for 105.5 bore (same as the Pami 760) but, they use a roller crank that is 1mm longer than the Pami. This is a 770.

HP Research uses a jug that is designed after the Pami jug (cast jug). They use the same roller crank as the TVI but, I believe they use a longer rod than stock??? Stroke is 91mm and you'll get about 800cc out of their kit.


Call each one and ask for Features-Advantages-Benefits of theirs over the competition. If you aren't looking to change the bore, you're options reduce quickly.

 

great info dune!! but in your awnser you brought up something that intrests me.
you said that a stock ds has solid brass main rod bearing right?
when we did the oil change yesterday i found a small cylinder shaped piece of metal in oil. it looked exactly like a tapered needle bearing. i (not knowing the lower rod bearing was brass as you said) thought the lower rod bearing was needle bearing, and assumed that it fell from there and my crank was getting ready to sh*t the bed. so i may not need the crank that i thought i originally did.





i like the sound of the pami 703 stroker, the falicon 715. id relly like to not have to do a jug if i can get away with it.

 

Pami also offers a 830 stroker. See TheBom for details.

JMiller

 

That roller bearing may be from your tranny??? Trying to think where else I've seen that size bearing?

Is it about as big around as a piece of lead for a mechanical pencil? (Maybe a little bigger?)

Don't know how that could get out of there [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]



OH. . .

Also, forgot to mention the Sam Coe 733 (no longer available). That would have come before the Falicon Crank Options but, after the Pami.

 

tranny, crank, you got to split the cases either way. might as well go for some mojo while you in there.


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You will not be disappointed with the 703.

You get that and you still have lots of money left over for other stuff.

 

the only top end roller bearing style pin I can think of is for the decompressor. Its like an 1/8" wide and your bike should be a bit harder to crank if it fell out.

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ive been researching the pami kits and have decided not to go with them. i really dont like the idea of shipping my motor to germany for $800. so there out
i like the falicon stroker kits but they say there kit requires machine work to the cases. how extensive is the case work? they say to contact mr hp about it so i think i may do that tomorrow.

when i did the oil change i got brass and that single roller bearing it was a little thicker then the lead of a pencil.

i guess i'll just have to hope and pray that the motor will last till the winter and tear it apart then and go from there.