Ok guys is there a cam out there that is directed more towards the bottom end? i h ave found lots of posts about the cams making lots of top end but i want more low end, I am open to other mods than cams, i plan on putting a pumper carb off a trx450 but i dont know if that will be enough i have already dropped 1 tooth on the front sprocket and have a k&n filter and a ODP end cap

 

Web 109 grind

 

mike, jeeze, you haven't even had your quad that long and your already trying to make yours faster than mine, this is no fair, lol

 

just trying to make it feel a little more like my quadzilla, iv been so busy that i havent had time to order my carb yet i would like to get it on there and see how it works.

 

my 45 is on its way back, once i get it on and tuned i'll hafta let ya take mine for a ride to see what you think

 

You ARE being facetious, right?

 

Are the 109's 4.25 260? If so, my torq peaks at 4500rpm with them. They do good for bottom end.

 

The 109s are great for a built motor (big bore, or other high flow mods ie exhaust, piston, carb). The 110 grind are good for just torque only on a stock motor.

Basically, the lower the duration of the cam on both intake and exhaust, the more torque you get. Keep in mind that your lift should match your high flow mods. Here is how I would rate the RWR and Web Cams in terms of torque (1 being the most torque). In my opinion, there are really only 5 basic cam choices out there. The spec changes in between are pretty minor. But Web can have your cams made any way you want. Duration numbers below are all measured at .050.


1) Web 110: Intake lift .395 in. and duration 256 degrees (intake and exhaust). Great cam for stock motor with good torque.

2) Web 109/110: Just like it sounds, a 109 on the intake and a 110 on the exhaust. A great in-between solution between the two. A little more torquey than the 109s. A good stage I or stage II cam.

3) Web 109 specs: Lift .425 in. and duration 260 degrees (intake and exhaust). Good for torque and power. Best of both worlds in a stage II or III motor. This is probably the most popular cam that web makes.

4) Wood9 : Lift .425 in. duration 260 degrees (Intake & exhaust). Virtually the same specs as above.

5) Axtell (A1/A2) : Intake lift .433 in. duration 267 degrees, Exhaust lift .406 in. duration 278 degrees. Good torque and decent top end on a stage II motor or even stage III. My favorite cam for the stage II I had. This is the most popular cam that Ron Wood makes.

6) Wood7 : Lift .450 in. duration 294 degrees (Intake & exhaust). Clearance .006-.008 in. These cams are strictly for high RPM power. Not much torque here.


Other options.

7) Combine the Axtel intake and a wood9 exhaust and you have a very good NOS set up.

8) Turbo it, and the (from what I hear) the Web 110s are the ticket.

 

Annihilator, I would expect the 109's to do pretty good in your motor combo. The torque peak was distorted on that dyno graph you sent me- I talked to the operator and he didn't have a clue what I was asking him about on settings or why the engine spiked so bad down at low rpm.


This guy doesn't have a built motor, so why 109's ?

None of the cams you mentioned have lower duration than stock, so how is he going to IMPROVE bottom end with them?

Call Webcam and ask them what the most popular grinds of cams for the DS they make are. It's none of the ones you mentioned. While your talking to them, ask them who leads the way in cam development for the Bombardier DS650.

When dynoing cams (or any other mod for that matter), it is important to hold everything else in the motor constant and change camshafts, then change the motor mods and start over again to test what different configurations want (matched components). How many camshafts have you dyno'ed??

Ask Jed Slama what the 5 basic cam choices are. I am being more direct than I have ever been, but the amount of misinformation getting out there is hard to straighten out 1 phone call at a time.

Wildcard, to answer your question, you have a great set of bottom end cams: the best way to improve your bottom end is to install the proper carb, the proper exhaust (which you've already purchased one), and increase compression and/or bore size. Then we can work on cams.

222

 

Randall,

Thanks for your feedback. I suggested the 109s simply because he was talking about going to other mods. Why replace cam after cam, when he is already considering a carb and some other motor mods. So, I am more than happy to outline the different specs to help him make a decision, and outline what would work best with each mod - I guess you missed that follow up. How about you?

My point is, once a customer understands the specs and the application, they wont be stuck with a stage II machine that performs less up a hill than a stage I. Clearly he needs more HP - a CP piston and a decent carb would carry him well.

You know you dont need to spend three years dynoing cams if you already have the right tools. I mean, why reinvent the wheel? The five choices I outlined were developed by Web and Ron Wood YEARS ago. By reinventing the wheel, you then have to recoup all that time and money you spent when there are much simpler ways to get the same info - or charge twice as much for a cam whose specs are only slightly different . Web wasn't it? I know you pay the same as I do for cams from them. So, why all the hype?

But hey, its clear you have some overhead to recoup - so, you go girl!

Marky

PS - As far as you being more direct than you have ever been. ..... Riiight! But Im ok with it. Everybody needs to vent once in a while. Sorry if I caused you telephone calls from your customers by clearly outlining the specs and mods by torque. The truth does tend to set people free.