We have a ranch with about 20 miles of firetrails. There is a riding area about 30 minutes from where I live called Cow Mountain, but I have not been there. Some friends go there regularly and are trying to get to try it out. I'm going to later this year.

In the early 80s I went to Pismo alot and to the Oregon a couple of times to play in the sand.

Now that I have the DS I'm going to start taking my kids to the dunes. We are going to Sand Mountain NV on Father's Day weekend. This will be my first trip there.

I'm real lucky that I work 4-10s Monday through Thursday. I always have three day weekends.

 

I've been working on your carb mods. The last post in that thread you advised me to make the float 1/32 higher on the unhinged end. I adjusted from the stock setting on your advice & it made a big diff. So here is some info see if you can advise. My stock float setting was hinged end 12/32, unhinged 8/32. So I adjusted to 13/32 hinged , unhinged 11/32. That made a nice improvement. jet is DJ 180 & needle is DJ in 4th notch from top. pilot is 45, 2.5 turns on the screw.

After the float adjust to 13/32, 11/32 My bottom end feels a little flat but the mid pulled real strong! Then the top end fell off. You suggested making the float 1/32 higher on the unhinged end. So I would basically flop the ends, know what I mean? Anyway I adjusted it & got 14/32 on the hinged end & 15/32 on the unhinged. When riding it the bottoms feels about the same, the mid is far less powerful & the top too. But the top does not "fall off" from the mid like it did. It's a smoother transition. But then again my mid is much weaker. I moved my DJ needle from 4th notch to 5th from the top to help, But now the little spring won't give. The needle is nongiving now. I need to remove some of the top of the needle right?

What I want is your opinion on this....
Should I go back & make the float what it was the first time I changed it when I at least had a strong mid. Or do I need to get my needle shaved down on top to make the 5th notch work & maybe try to jet up now to a 185 DJ from a 180? Maybe try 185 with needle in 3rd or 4th notch? Would that help? I guess I noticed moving the float made me lose power (this time) but yet is it because I can now run a bigger jet and/or needle setting with a more consistent float setting? What do you think I should chase next?

I hope I'm not bothering you. I just want to get this right & not try 100 things to do it.
Thanks

 

could someone that has did the airbox tube mod please post some pics so I can get a better idea of what it looks like. I know what tubes you are all talking about I would just like to see a pic of it done. I will be bringing my ds to the dyno maybe this weekend so I was thinking about trying it both ways. Thanks in advance.

 

If you look at my pics you can see how I did mine. Mine are shorter that OMRs, but seem to work fine. I used some suction tubing I had that was the same ID as the stock tubes, but is smooth and I made them one piece to get rid of the connector in the middle. If you have not cut your stock tubes you could do the same with them.
Scott

 

01ds650,

I notice that you are running the RW cdi. The curve and total timing is aggressive, but that is good.

My recommendations to do next are:

1- Turn out pilot screw 4 1/2 turns. This is needed to match the bottom timing of RW cdi.

2- Leave needle in the 4th groove.

3- Leave float at your last adjustment. Your motor is responding as I thought it would.

4- Put in a 190DJ main jet.

This should get you really close to spot on.
Going to see my son this weekend, I hope you get out and ride, let me know how it ran by monday.

I feel like I am everyone's oldman, and like to help whenever. Ask anytime.

OMR

 

OMR
Can you help me out a bit? Or at least get me in the ball park. I have 01 ds with a K&N and outerwears prefilter and an hmf pipe. Other than that its stock. It seams that when you get on the throttle it kinda sputters and chokes a little bit. But if you feather the throttle you can make it go. The plugs are kinda white all over or greyish white. I have fiddled with the jetting alittle bit but cant seem to find the happy spot. could you help me out some. Once I get that right I will try some of your mods for the stock carb. thanks in advance.

 

What size jet you are running currently. Grey/white plugs usually mean you are lean. Try bumping up a jet size and then play with the needle a little.

 

skidoofan,

Stock carb settings with hmf:

1- Pilot screw out 5 1/2 turns if #40 pilot jet, 4 turns out if you have a #45

2- Needle in the 4th from top of needle.

3- Main jet mikuni 175

Some folks can run in the 5th groove, but usually needs aftermarket cdi with more timing.

OMR

 

Thanks I am going to the dyno tomorrow I will try this set up and see what happens. I will let you know. Thanks again.

 

OMR
I havent been to the dyno yet but later this evening I am going. But anyway I took my carb apart to check everything out it has a 180 main jet already. I think I put that in when I put the pipe on. Pilot jet is a 45 and I turned the pilot screw out 4 turns and it still kinda hesitates a bit. I will have to order a 175 main jet. So I will have to make due the way it is for now. But I will let you all know what happens after the dyno runs. Thanks for any help.