01ds650,

Now that we are confident that there is no motor issues, lets move on.

It appears that the problem has been with you for some time and after you tried my mods, the problem is still there.

The cdi either works or doesn't. They very seldom loose just one feature.

I am assuming that when you adjusted the needle, you checked that the needle had alittle freeplay and that the spring adequately pushes the needle down.

New checks:
1- Remove seat and pull out balance tube connector going into air duct, at filter end.
Hold balance tube in right hand and place left hand on top of carb. Blow air into balance
tube and you should feel the throttle slide instantly hit the carb top. If this does not
happen, there is either an obstruction in the balance tube or the rubber bladder has a
small hole.

2- Visual check to see if air bladder is not leaking. Disconnect the intake duct from carb and
push below carb opening. Start and let motor warm up. Position yourself on right side of
quad, lower head so to see the slide inside carb and hit the throttle hard. Does slide
instantly jump to the highest position. Or does it rise slowly and not appear to be opening
all the way.

With my mods you should have great bottom and mid hit. If not, the bladder is not working properly. Check bladder for small pinholes in rubber. When you put top over bladder, do you lightly move top sideways to make sure bladder is resting in groove tightly.
On newer carbs the factory added a tensioner ring around bottom of bladder to eliminate small leaks, does your assembly have this white ring? If you cannot find a leak and you do not have this ring, it may help.

Try these checks and let me know what you found.

OMR

 

With my mods you should have great bottom and mid hit.
OMR[/quote]

OMR Love the mods thanks for you time and efforts.How can i get some
top end back.Without loseing what ive got now.

 

addict, did you lose top end doing these mods? My quad right now has no punch in the top end, feels very flat.

OMR, is that a sacrifice? bottom & mid for top end? I just can't figure this quad out. I disconnected the balance tube yesterday & ran it. Still got the same lose of power. I'll look at it later

also, is addicts order right?
he wrote "Stock from point is small ,clip.white,fat
Omr suggests making the fat in a D shape in putting that on bottom.
It aligns the needle with the jet.Youll get even fuel flow.And less drag
from the needle on the jet. "

That's how mine is from the top, not point. which way is it?

 

I think what atvaddict01 was meaning to say was that:

From the top of needle towards point the order is:
small washer, clip, white washer and then thick washer.


Every ones motor has a few different mods - they may be exhaust , cdi or both.
They cause vacuum signal to vary per rpm range.

Remember that the stock cam was designed for under 8k operation. If you do not have a tach you may think you have no top end and that is because you have exceeded the stock cam range.

Also the HMF is not designed to run above 8k.


If you have the spring I recommended, a good bladder, performance should be great.

If you are missing alittle top end, then I would recommend drilling the 2 new vacuum ports to .140(normal was .125). You cannot drill the stock vacuum ports larger than .125 because there is no room.


01ds650 - Did you inspect per my latest instructions?

 

Ya what he said I had the order backwards.

01ds650 i didnt lose that much just a little.
Im not keeping up with others in the group like before

 

atvaddict,
Are you happy with the mods? I so far am very unhappy. I'd go back but I've drilled my slide out to 4 holes at .125. So basically that slide is ruined. I had plenty of low end before so I'd rather have top end. But right now I'm way down on power. It feels flat on the top of mid & high end like a 400EX feels, not like it used too.

OMR, Last year I lost to a 450R for the first time. I also lose or tie my friends stock 2001 DS. So I wrote to HMF (in like Nov 2005) & told them I was running a 170 Mikuni & a stock needle on the 5th notch. They said that was too rich & to go to the 4th notch. When I finally got ready to ride in the spring & went to move the needle I noticed the rubber bladder in my carb had a small tear. I ordered a new one & installed it. I couldn't ride much in town but 1st & 2nd felt fine. I never took it out & whipped on it before I did you mods. Looking back & guess I should have. All I know is it seemed OK before & I've followed your advice but I can't get it right. I'll try & check the slide movement as soon as I can & report back.

Everytime I go to ride again & gently get going to warm it up the mid feels great & I think FINALLY! Then when I really poke it I'm let down. Do these carb mods effect the top end that much in a negative way?

 

OMR,
I did your checks & the slide seems to work just fine.

I put a filter on the carb nipple & capped the barb on the airbox & removed the balance hose. It starts fine, idles fine, runs reliable & revs like it always did. Just no pull on top like before. I bought a 2001 bladder. It matched my other one. I'm not sure a ring would help, only because my other was fine without it. In fact it still ran OK with the tear.

My exhaust has a leak on the weld by the mounting tab, that wouldn't matter though would it?

I ported my intake over 1 year ago & I made some nicks that weren't smooth in it but I can't see that just showing up now. Ron Woods said what you said, CDIs just go bad, they usually don't just fade away.

When I adjust my float the first time from factory (12/32 hinged & 8/32 unhinged) to 13/32 hinged & 11/32 unhinged) then when I adjusted it the 2nd time to (14/32 hinged & 15/32 unhinged) per you stating make it 1/32 higher on the unhinged. I keep think the 13/32-11/32 ran better. The top fell off more abrutly but the mid was crazy strong. What are your thoughts? I thought about shooting for 12/32 on both ends.

 

01ds650,

I would raise the needle to the 5th groove and install a 185DJ main jet.

How long have you had a hole in exhaust pipe? Is not good, will burn out packing in silencer and kills top end power.

Drilling out front ports to .140 will help.

OMR

 

OMR,
1st I know it's a holiday weekend so I appreciate your answers.

I was going to put a DJ 185 in. My old notes show I used to run the needle in 4th notch DJ 185. I will have to cut top of DJ needle off to run 5th groove but I will try it.

My pipe had a small hole by the mounting tab. I took my pipe off & shined it. When I mounted it again it made the hole bigger. I haven't sent it back to HMF yet. But you think that affects top end?

I'll leave the ports alone for now. I want to just try one thing at a time right now in a way.

What do you think about my float level? adjust or not?

 

I am presently running level.
Level to lower at unhinged end 1/32 would be worth trying.

I had a HMF tear where you have and when I sent my pipe in, they sent me back a new silencer with an improved bracket mount.

Since thry are just down the road from you, I would send it in.

Your cdi may need the 5th groove, you are running 2 degree's more timing than me.

My son is repacking one of his silencer this week, when I was up north last it lost top end bad, and when we opened the silencer, most of the packing was gone.