Best place to pick up Barnett clutch and RWR springs?
#11
Springs I would think play more in how much HP you really think you will be runnning in the end. I made my decision based on rider weight, I am not a heavy guy compared to some of the DS owners @ 250 to 300 pounds. I am 175 so dealing with a stiff clutch handle to me isnt nessessary. I dont plan on having over 65hp EVER. Key word there is plan. Its hard to make HP or should I say costs. There have been guys on here that swear that you dont need to get 60% RWR or Pami springs and that the barnett springs are fine. I did notice a very small increase in clutch handle pull, just enough to notice. The barnett springs are a hair taller and I bet its design is similar to shimming the stock springs. You hear about harley guys shimming springs all the time to get more spring pressure. I have also heard horror stories on here about guys breaking teeth on the actuator from 60% springs and other broken parts from the extra 60% springs. I just said screw it and ran the barnetts, even if they are just a hair more pressure than stock, they are fresh.
One more thing, sorry, the reason for my clutch change was from 22" sand stars on a VERY VERY steep dune. I was shifting into 3rd and laid on it hard, since it was my first time out with these paddles I thought, maybe the reason the RPM's didnt cahnge going into 3rd was a huge roost and spinning them ALOT.......well no, that was the clutch. At the very top of the dune the clutch finally engaged and the RPM's came down. I felt pretty stupid at that point and said, theres another $150 upgrade [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img] .
One more thing, sorry, the reason for my clutch change was from 22" sand stars on a VERY VERY steep dune. I was shifting into 3rd and laid on it hard, since it was my first time out with these paddles I thought, maybe the reason the RPM's didnt cahnge going into 3rd was a huge roost and spinning them ALOT.......well no, that was the clutch. At the very top of the dune the clutch finally engaged and the RPM's came down. I felt pretty stupid at that point and said, theres another $150 upgrade [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img] .
#12
Originally posted by: aceisback
Wouldn't the stiffer springs allow the new plates to last longer, engaging them quicker and keeping them together longer? Just my uneducated guess![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img] And then allow for future mods? I'm looking for some longevity also, don't want to be tearing into her real often.
Originally posted by: DSengineer
With your mods you don't really need stiffer springs than what comes in the kit. That is the beauty of the Barnett clutch. It allows you to run softer springs than you would otherwise need with the stock clutch.
With your mods you don't really need stiffer springs than what comes in the kit. That is the beauty of the Barnett clutch. It allows you to run softer springs than you would otherwise need with the stock clutch.
#13
The Rw's and Pami springs will hold better and grab faster because they do have more plate pressure. If you have glazed over the fibers and polished the steels you will probably need a whole new clucth kit unless you spend some time refinshing both. Then you have to worrie about clutch stack height. I have guys in the 240lbs range and up, like the better springs because they do hold more, and they are just trail riders w/50+hp bikes. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
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