I dont mean your knucles. Im talking about the bleed screw. I have two 01s and an 05 and have never bled the system. I thought you didnt have to on 01 and up but I was at a local dealer and they had an 06 that they said the crank bearings were gone and it was because he never bleed it. The rod was blue and the bottom and the bearing was so burnt it wouldnt move. I have oil pressure gauges on all of mine. 2nd question what oil pressure should they idle at? Thanks guys

 

Meaner,

I could be mistaken but I was under the impression that '02 was the first year that bleeding wasn't necessary. I think they added a little bypass tube that automatically bled out any trapped air in the lines out into the crankcase.

Regarding the '06, call me a cynic but when a bike is under warranty and the dealer chooses a (IMHO) bogus diagnosis that blames the customer.........

Usually the bushing at the rod and the crank pin is the vulnerable point from this oversight, not the crank bearings........... I look forward to hearing from someone who works on these things regularly. If I should be bleeding my '05, I would like to know!

Ron

 

I let mine sit overnight before I crank it and always solid pressure when it runs the next day

 

During a motor swap when all the oil lines are disconnected I could see where bleeding or force priming with air as I do would be necessary, but during a regular oil change any of the above should not be necessary, otherwise 9 out of every new 10 ds's would sieze after the first non-bled oil change, the mfg. most likely has a bleed system for in-depth maintenance/rebuilds for ease on the mechanic.

Before you install the oil filter on an oil change, turn the engine over 10 seconds or so, If you've got oil pumping out to the filter housing I would'nt worry about bleeding anything, just my 2cents.

 

i always bleed mine....

 

I bleed the system the first couple times I changed the oil, but never again after that. I do have an oil pressure gauge so I know its getting pressure. One thing you can also do is crank the motor a few times with the kill switch in the off position, to get the oil moving before you actually fire it. Sometimes if mine has sat for a long time I will crank it and wait for oil pressure to build a bit before firing.

As to what a stock motor should idle at...I think what type of oil and weight you use has a really big affect on that number. I have always run valvoline four stroke ATV oil on my 03, and once it warms up I beleive it idles somewhere around 30? Also what rpm you idle at can change that number as well.

 

i have a 2000 and have never ever bled mine. not once. it runs strong and i run it hard. no problems and i have good oil flow/ pressure...........holy crap now you got me worried. great !!!! now i got to go tear out the crank to check the rod bearings [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] all joking aside do you guys think i should start using the bleed screw?

 

I've never had to bleed mine.

 

I haven't yet, but now ya'll have me wondering. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]

 

beginning in 2001, the model year I have, they came fitted with a vent tube that tees off from the hose fitting at the supply pump inlet, and it goes back to the oil tank. this allows the supply line to self prime via. gravity with no air lock preventing it. this was for two reasons - so that after an oil change, if the line was emptied, it would self prime - and also after a rollover in a wreck, if the bike was upside down for any length of time the supply hose may have emptied back to tank.

I have never, ever, blead my 2001 model - riding it for 5 years with dozens of oil changes. After changing your oil, if you start the bike and the red dash light does not go out, then you better shut it down and blead. Otherwise, you are good to go. That is of course, assuming the pressure switch is not screwed up, and since these oil pressure swtiches can and do screw up from time to time, I routinely inspect mine. Right before an oil change is a good time to check it. Start the bike, confirm there is no red light, then kill the bike leaving the key on and see if the red light comes on. It should be lit with the key on but engine off, due to lack of oil pressure. If the red light and pressure switch are behaving correctly before starting an oil change, then it can be relied on a half hour later when you are done with the oil change.

I also never empty the supply line like the manual suggests. the DS holds a gallon, and the few ounces in the supply line are not worth the mess. This also only helps to insure that no priming/bleeding is necesary.