What is the Brown Smeg on my Plug Base?
#11
What is the Brown Smeg on my Plug Base?
I don't think so. I have run real old Trick and have never seen any change in the reading. Some of my friends just leave the gas in a vented fuel cell for 5 or 6 months with no problems. (not the right thing to do, but they do it anyway)
One thing you can do is get a clear glass jar and put a cup of fuel in it and leave it out uncapped. A high quality fuel will evap off and leave almost no residue at all.
If you did this with the Sunoco and you came up with a sticky residue at the bottom of the jar I would think twice about using that type of fuel.
Thanks again.
One thing you can do is get a clear glass jar and put a cup of fuel in it and leave it out uncapped. A high quality fuel will evap off and leave almost no residue at all.
If you did this with the Sunoco and you came up with a sticky residue at the bottom of the jar I would think twice about using that type of fuel.
Thanks again.
#12
What is the Brown Smeg on my Plug Base?
Slow night at work, minimal breakdowns to work on, so I got some research in...
some links below with some cool info on lead fouling and plug heat range and all that jazz - the pics on the aircraft page are pretty close to what I'm seeing and it all seems to make sense.
if I am understanding correctly, lead builds up on the plug during rich conditions, like say a rich idle circuit, then it has 3 choices - it can get burnt off with correct temp range, stay put and keep building from insufficient heat range, or glaze and remain forever from excessive heat range.
now we know I can't be too cold on the plug's heat range, cause I went up to 14:1 and still stock plug. but one thing I did not mention earlier cause I didn't think of it is that it has been very hard for me to reach optimum operating temperature ever since I did this build, the cooling mods I have done got my coolant temp running around 160 to 170 alot of the time, and in the 180's or 190 only if I'm hard core ***** to the wall for a while.
Well I'm guessing I'm getting this lead deposit during idle and mild riding off and on the throttle, while the motor temp is really low and maybe my low end is a little rich, but then when I hammer down and hit high rev for a while - like crossing a mile long field wide open for a solid minute, I'm a little hot on the plug heat range and glazing the deposits. of all the plug checks I have done, most of them have been pulled after cruising and idling down to a stop, but a couple were done right after a wide open shutdown of extened time across the fields - and those two showed the little speckles to be crusty instead of smudgy.
anyway, as planned, I will go to teh next cooler plug and get jetted correctly - I think that will get me where I need to be.
http://www.sacskyranch.com/eng80.htm
http://www.sacskyranch.com/faqsparkplug.htm
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinf...000&country=US
some links below with some cool info on lead fouling and plug heat range and all that jazz - the pics on the aircraft page are pretty close to what I'm seeing and it all seems to make sense.
if I am understanding correctly, lead builds up on the plug during rich conditions, like say a rich idle circuit, then it has 3 choices - it can get burnt off with correct temp range, stay put and keep building from insufficient heat range, or glaze and remain forever from excessive heat range.
now we know I can't be too cold on the plug's heat range, cause I went up to 14:1 and still stock plug. but one thing I did not mention earlier cause I didn't think of it is that it has been very hard for me to reach optimum operating temperature ever since I did this build, the cooling mods I have done got my coolant temp running around 160 to 170 alot of the time, and in the 180's or 190 only if I'm hard core ***** to the wall for a while.
Well I'm guessing I'm getting this lead deposit during idle and mild riding off and on the throttle, while the motor temp is really low and maybe my low end is a little rich, but then when I hammer down and hit high rev for a while - like crossing a mile long field wide open for a solid minute, I'm a little hot on the plug heat range and glazing the deposits. of all the plug checks I have done, most of them have been pulled after cruising and idling down to a stop, but a couple were done right after a wide open shutdown of extened time across the fields - and those two showed the little speckles to be crusty instead of smudgy.
anyway, as planned, I will go to teh next cooler plug and get jetted correctly - I think that will get me where I need to be.
http://www.sacskyranch.com/eng80.htm
http://www.sacskyranch.com/faqsparkplug.htm
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinf...000&country=US
#13
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"A little nonsense now and then, is relished by the wisest men". Willy Wonka: 1971
Cigars! Earth ne'eer did breed such a jovial weed.
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#14
What is the Brown Smeg on my Plug Base?
hey thanks for the thanks everybody, but remember the guys who also provide so many answers!
its all good info with plenty of great stuff to sift thru and apply to your specific needs,
Doc, NUT, OMR - always willing to help and greatly appreciated!
By the way OMR your info you provided a while back to me concerning jetting changes for climate conditions and altitude and octane ratings was invaluable - its getting harder to find the slide rules that we used to go by and I even tried to get one from a catalog recently but they were out of stock with no restock in sight so that was a big help.
I should also mention I plan to install a new thermostat that will allow the bike to reach operating temp and then maintain it - one of the things I did a while back was remove the inner core for more flow, a trick lots of guys in the desert and dunes have done - the frame of the thermostat was maintanied cause too much flow will not allow enough time in radiator. well this helped keep peek temps down a little, but at the cost of running a bit cold when outside temps are low, especially winter. perhaps this may be a contributor to the lead fouling?
so I guess it total what I am doing here to see if it helps with what I think is lead on the plug is restablish and maintain proper op temp, go to dr9 plug, and jet accordingly. It'll be a few weeks before I am done, busy work schedule, but I'll post after.
its all good info with plenty of great stuff to sift thru and apply to your specific needs,
Doc, NUT, OMR - always willing to help and greatly appreciated!
By the way OMR your info you provided a while back to me concerning jetting changes for climate conditions and altitude and octane ratings was invaluable - its getting harder to find the slide rules that we used to go by and I even tried to get one from a catalog recently but they were out of stock with no restock in sight so that was a big help.
I should also mention I plan to install a new thermostat that will allow the bike to reach operating temp and then maintain it - one of the things I did a while back was remove the inner core for more flow, a trick lots of guys in the desert and dunes have done - the frame of the thermostat was maintanied cause too much flow will not allow enough time in radiator. well this helped keep peek temps down a little, but at the cost of running a bit cold when outside temps are low, especially winter. perhaps this may be a contributor to the lead fouling?
so I guess it total what I am doing here to see if it helps with what I think is lead on the plug is restablish and maintain proper op temp, go to dr9 plug, and jet accordingly. It'll be a few weeks before I am done, busy work schedule, but I'll post after.
#15
What is the Brown Smeg on my Plug Base?
Originally posted by: Hightower
so I guess it total what I am doing here to see if it helps with what I think is lead on the plug is restablish and maintain proper op temp, go to dr9 plug, and jet accordingly. It'll be a few weeks before I am done, busy work schedule, but I'll post after.
so I guess it total what I am doing here to see if it helps with what I think is lead on the plug is restablish and maintain proper op temp, go to dr9 plug, and jet accordingly. It'll be a few weeks before I am done, busy work schedule, but I'll post after.
No jetting changes, I mean I played with jetting but ended up back where I started - it was all good. Dyno appointment May 16th but I'm sure it won't take many pulls.
So thanks again guys, you steered me in the right direction!
#16
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Derek Allen
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