CAN-AM (BRP) Discussions about CAN-AM ATVs.

so who is building what ???

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Old 02-15-2007, 02:04 PM
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LOL , Thanks bra, couldnt help myself. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] you have had it coming funny guy. I hit the nail right on the head with the bathroom scale thing though didnt I?? LOL tell jimmyjoe I said hey....
 
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Old 02-15-2007, 02:04 PM
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As far as who weighed them....I said we because I promoted the exercise. I wanted to know so I asked someone I trust who has access to different motors to weigh them and document it. He is an engineer and a fabricator and was doing me a favor. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
 
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Old 02-15-2007, 04:45 PM
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Just want to point something out. Referring to the weak R1 motor. A stock R1 motor is good to about 310 hp. With just pistons and rods 400 hp. Just because one engine is completely overbuilt (just like a Ds), doesnt mean the R1 is weak.
Mine runs 260 hp all day, and alot harder than any four wheeler will ever work it, and it dont care a bit. Alot of folks run them with just head shims at 310hp without a problem!

How much Hp are you looking for?
 
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Old 02-15-2007, 08:20 PM
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ROTFLMAO.....
 
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Old 02-15-2007, 09:44 PM
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just got my busa motor today, it's a big sonofagun! it's gonna be fun working this one in!
 
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Old 02-16-2007, 02:17 AM
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glad you got it Curtis, yea, should be a little different than fitting the gsxr I would think. also, Jed, I assume your talking about some kind of yamaha snowmobile engine with a turbo charger on it? is this a factory turbo charged sled or some aftermarket kit with exagerated hp numbers? the 2007 stock non turbo 1000cc yamaha sleds make 150 at the crank and loose 20% through the clutches as all sleds do which knocks them down to 120 at the track. if you are getting 260hp to the ground then you are doubling your stock horsepower plus 20. thats impressive. you must be running about 22psi boost then? very impressive especially since you say your running a stock motor. but whats more impressive is that if you are making 260 all day long then you are actually making 312 at the crank . WOW. takes around 15psi to make around 300hp on a 1300cc busa motor so I figure 22 psi would get around 300 out of a litre. also takes heavy duty cylinder studs, aftermarket valve springs, a spring steel head gasket and 118 octane $12 a gallon fuel to keep from detonating and burning down pistons on a busa motor . those r1's must be tough! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img]
 
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Old 02-16-2007, 04:08 AM
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This speculation used as an argument is tiring......

First, it is ridiculous to think that there is 20% loss across the board between crank and track. Why would the same clutches consume 52 HP on a 312 HP motor to put 260 HP to the ground........yet only consume 30 HP in drag on a 150 HP motor leaving 120 HP at the ground. On our ATV's we lose about 10 hp between the crank and the tires. So at 52 crank HP, we are putting 42 to the ground. That is 19% consumed by drag. At 70 crank HP, we are putting 60 to the ground. That is a loss to drag of 14%. I think you see the point........

Second, boost relative to HP is silly to compare anything except identical motors with identical inductions. All you have to do is increase the CC's of your pressurized intake to dramatically increase manifold pressure at a given PSI.

Example - Big intake manifold + 6 PSI of boost = 100 HP.........Small intake manifold + 15 PSI of boost = 100 HP.

Then you have to use the same thought process in comparing boost numbers to relative cylinder displacement as well. A given PSI of boost guaged at the manifold will make more cylinder pressure in a larger cylinder causing a harder push on the piston at the point of combustion, than will the same manifold pressure on a smaller cylinder. Bottom line........even attempting the comparison is futile.

Lastly, you can run way more boost in PSI to an R1 before you start running into the need for upgraded componentry such as valve springs, piston's, rods, etc. (with the exception of dropping compression ratio. That is assumed on both motors). More than the difference in displacement would suggest. Think how much less stress there is on the valvetrain alone at 15 PSI on the R1 compared to the Busa. Think about the surface area of the valves in the 5 valve head as the intake pressure builds as one example........

After thinking through these few examples of reason, I have come to the conclusion that there is nothing credible in your post that remotely resembles any evidence that Jed doesn't know what he is talking about. Your argument is completely based on your speculation of how you might compare the two systems while ignoring some of the most basic differences as mentioned above.

Gregg, i think it is time you give Jed his due and admit he might know something about R1's! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

Go ahead and hit me with some of that staggering logic you used this morning like, "NUTTHOLE"! LMFAO!!!! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

lol, I am in rare form tonight. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] Jed, your turn....

(Btw dbeck and Raptoryfn660r.......this isn't a fight [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]......this more like wrestling [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img])
 
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Old 02-16-2007, 10:22 AM
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Originally posted by: supersonictoys
glad you got it Curtis, yea, should be a little different than fitting the gsxr I would think. also, Jed, I assume your talking about some kind of yamaha snowmobile engine with a turbo charger on it? is this a factory turbo charged sled or some aftermarket kit with exagerated hp numbers? the 2007 stock non turbo 1000cc yamaha sleds make 150 at the crank and loose 20% through the clutches as all sleds do which knocks them down to 120 at the track. if you are getting 260hp to the ground then you are doubling your stock horsepower plus 20. thats impressive. you must be running about 22psi boost then? very impressive especially since you say your running a stock motor. but whats more impressive is that if you are making 260 all day long then you are actually making 312 at the crank . WOW. takes around 15psi to make around 300hp on a 1300cc busa motor so I figure 22 psi would get around 300 out of a litre. also takes heavy duty cylinder studs, aftermarket valve springs, a spring steel head gasket and 118 octane $12 a gallon fuel to keep from detonating and burning down pistons on a busa motor . those r1's must be tough! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img]
What difference does it make if its at the crank or track to you? Did I say it was stock? Is your turbo busa stock? Didnt think so. You claim that the R1 motor is weak, I called your bluff! I run 100 octane at 12 psi = 260 crank hp. At 17psi = 310 hp at the crank on 116 octane. With a head shim 17 psi = 310 hp at 100 octane. Whats your point. You want to tell everone that the Busa is the only way to go, spend all this money to do it, but complain about spending money on fuel.......ok!

I'm heading out today to ride my weak R1 powerplanted machine in heavy deep snow at 260 (crank) hp, that will run at full load for minutes on end..........man I hope somone will come save me since this thing cant really handle that! bahahaha

Now Greg, you must admit, thats pretty good right there![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img]
 
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Old 02-16-2007, 11:46 AM
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first off guys I dont care what anyone runs. I'm not telling anyone what to run. I was trying to warn my good pal DSnut from adding power to what is already a brittle engine. if he wants to put a 100hp fogger system on it, go for it.yes I can see how you could be very impressed with jeds claims nut ,as I'm sure you are very ready to jump on the band wagon with anyone who "likes " the R1. as for the 20% loss through the track, everyone in the snomobile industry knows this is the case. make a phone call nut. the more hp the tighter the clutches have to be to hold it back. 20% is the norm when the clutches ARE set up properly. if you dont have them set up right there can be much more loss. jed ,ok so if you are runing 12psi and 260 at the crank you basically have just over 200hp to the ground. you asked how much horsepower do I want? well that aint enough. all numbers I mention are rear wheel hp and 300 MIGHT be enough. I would like to see a 300 rear wheel hp r1 run! set yours up for 300 nuttybuddy and let me watch you go up the hill once. you know what I would see? at about 1/4 hill there would be a big puff of smoke and after that you would coast to a stop with a trail of oil behind you . listen, I'm glad you guys like what you have and am also glad you havent been disappointed(yet). but I know I can run pass after pass with 300 REAR WHEEL HP , all day long with a busa and do it for years. now how much abuse with a non turboed busa take?? I know what a busa crank and rods looks like when sitting next to an r1s tiny little crank . if someone want to know my honest opinion about which motor I prefer and they want to know why, Im going to tell them what I know , using what I have seen with my own 2 eyes and using my years of streetbike motor building experience and years as owner /operator of a 9000 square foot all indoor motorcycle salvage yard as a guide to whats looks weak and what doesnt. I'm going to go out on a limb here but... have either of you two ever rebuilt a streetbike motor? or ever removed the crank shaft from a couple different 4 cylinder motor cycle motors?
 
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Old 02-16-2007, 11:47 AM
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alright ladies im gonna have to put you all in a time out,LOL how about we corn hole nut[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
 


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