Starting to do some mock up on the frame. Just need to get the motor alligned and start putting my mounts in. Have a few pictures on my page.

 

Its looking good.

 

Looks real good ! I do see only one thing you might want to change . you may not have it where you want it yet in the photos but I notice there are several inches of space between the motor and the swing arm pivot. when mine are mounted the back of the case almost touches the swing arm pivot. less than an 1/8 inch away. with the long swing arm you are already transfering so much of the engines weight to the front wheels. that couple inches will make matters even worse. also with that extra couple inches in between the countershaft sprocket and the swingarm pivot point your chain will be more likely to loosen and tighten when the suspension goes up and down. having the sprocket close as you can get it to the swing arm pivot point will help eliminate this serious issue as well. you will also have more much needed room in front of the exhaust in order to keep heat away from your oil cooler(assuming you will be running one) and more much needed room for a fuel tank in front of the valve cover and should you decide to add a turbo some day there is no way you could fit one with the motor that far forward. make sure that you still have a clear shot between that flat edged frame cross tube right behind the injector rack to get filters on your injectors too. two of the injector rack inlets will be under frame rails and it will look like the injectors are sitting about 3/8 inch off center to the right of the bike. with the ace fab swingarms you have a perfectly smooth front tube and looking between the swing arm pivot and motors case is a pretty good way to judge that your motor is relatively strait. also , when you have the motor in about the right place you will have to take out your lower left subframe bolt bolt and reverse it so that the nut is on the outside otherwise it may interfere with the chain. I have found that when they are set up right you will be less than an 1/8 inch from the swing arm in the back, the injectors will be an 1/8 inch from the bottom of the stock top bars in the frame and you should also have a strait shot for filters .(sorry to sound like such a know it all) just excited that somone else is gettin at it finally and want yours to be perfect for you the first time. let me know if I can help in anyway. again, looks good. Gregg

 

Thanks for the information SST. I planned on asking you how far away and how high you mount the motor also how far tilted forward you place your motors before I do my mounts I should have them done by the end of the week I am working alot so do not have alot of time as far as being a know it all ? you have done this numerouse times I have not ! so as far as I am concerned you do know it all compared to me [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] I am still learning day by day and will take any comments I have very thick skin so it will not hurt much.

Thanks again for the comments Travis.

 

I generally cut the bottom of the frame out and then build the rear motor mount before building the bottom of the frame. My concern now is that once you get the motor in the right place that you won't be able to get the lower motor mount bolt in without it hitting one of your frame rails. Also, I usually drill out the motor mount holes to the next standard size so that I can buy motor mount bolts at the local hardware store. Otherwise, metrics that length are special order.

 

I cut the frame on my Busa DS tonight. The tubing bends are mapped out...might start welding as early as tomorrow.

SST - Are you familiar with the series of letters on the back of a Busa motor? I looked at the motor you sold Ron Puhl tonight and the sequence was B-B-A-B-A. I looked at the back of my motor and it was A-A-A-A-A. Any idea what this means?

I am shooting to have the frame ready to hit the powder coater middle to late next week......We are gonna have to haul **** though to get the exhaust done and the rear suspension worked out. Since we have the technology, I think I am going to incorporate a linkage in the rear suspension to allow the lower shock mount to move closer to the pivot without increasing stress on the shock. My goal is to make more clearance for our KFX700 tank while at the same time having the stock DS rear shock already dialed for the +8 swingarm without a heavier spring or revalving. Should be pretty trick plus we can make the ride height adjustable without the loss of travel.

More next week.......

 

nut, I have no idea what those letters mean. probably just some casting batch mark. your shock link setup sounds interesting. I guess majorecho has run a + 8 with the shock in the stock location just with heavier shock oil and the preload cranked. that was on a gsxr though. its extremely easy to just back the top mount up and totally compensate for the longer arm. your way may work out neat too.

 

I found out what the Letters in bold on the back of the block means. Since there is a certain amount of variation in parts and assembly in any manufacturing, these letters indicate how well balanced the motor is from the factory. It is just like a grading system aparently.......

 

well the one I'm installing right now says AAAAA.