I just changed the oil in my 2001 ds650, no problems the red oil light went out shortly after cranking the motor over. The odd part is the oil came out of the motor looking almost new, it was a little dirty but you could still see through it, however the oil came out of the tank up front very dirty. I drained the block first via the drain plug and then pulled the oil line off of the motor to drain the tank, when that ran dry I pulled the line off of the tank and removed the fitting to clean the screen. The screen on the tank fitting was pretty clean, just a little grunge on it. Any ideas why the oil in the tank would be dirty and the block oil clean?

 

What did the oil in the oil filter look like?

 

The oil in the filter looked black, like the oil from the tank.

 

OK, this is something I'm surprised is not been discussed on the forum, seems the early DS models have to have a plug removed behind the Oil Filter to Bleed the air out of the oil line, you must remover this plug and remove a spark plug and turn the motor over to bleed the air out,
I just found this out after my crank seized, wish I knew about this, Preacher says seen many a older DS fry because of this.

 

The bleeding procedure you describe, as I recall, has been discussed many, many times on this forum. Isn't this something you do when you "lose prime" after an oil change (or rollover) and air is in the line, causing you to lose oil pressure? I believe he said that he had oil pressure, i.e. his red light went out. Am I missing something?

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: ERBEDS650

OK, this is something I'm surprised is not been discussed on the forum, seems the early DS models have to have a plug removed behind the Oil Filter to Bleed the air out of the oil line, you must remover this plug and remove a spark plug and turn the motor over to bleed the air out,

I just found this out after my crank seized, wish I knew about this, Preacher says seen many a older DS fry because of this.</end quote></div>

Plus you have change oil from when it is warmed up too. So like just checking the oil level, racing dry-sumps have a labor cost not associated with wet-sump Jap bikes.

So a little reused oil every oil change cooked your oil pump and engine? You did have an aggresive platform compared to OEM, which the pump was designed for. So roller ball main bearings may be your only alternative, especially as you climb the slippery slope of metal engine parts melting. You may not need a stroker to add roller ball main bearings, but if you do stroke it, you will find out the next OEM bottleneck part eventually. Drag race engines used as a duner may require more extensive maintenance intervals as well.

I look forward to your informative performance/cost breakdown analysis when you complete the next stage.


Thanks!

 

Actually ERBE if you do a search that subject has been covered in multiple threads. The way most people do it on pre 2002 models is they back the plug out until air can pass through it (not completely out) and turn the motor over until a steady stream pours out. Tighten it back in, install the filter and do a final oil level check.

I learned that from this site.


Yjacket's suggestion that it was old dirty oil that took your motor down is ludicrous. It is trapped air that leaves the pump un-primed resulting in lack of flow. Also, unless somehow a set of roller bearings can prime the pump and bleed the air for you, they will only give you a few more miles before they burn up to.

I lost a 2000 crank to this very thing.

 

I did crank the motor while the oil filter was out, I did not loosen the bleed screw because I thought that was a 2000 and below issue, oil started coming into the oil filter chamber so I put the new filter in and put the cover back on, then I cranked the motor until the oil light went out.

The motor was warmed up before the oil change.

 

It is a 2000 issue. There are a few 2001's with the automatic bleed line, the rest are like the 2000's as I understand it.

2002 and newer are not an issue.

 

Bottom line, if the red light went out I don't need to turn the bleed screw right?