For those of us that have been riding since they only had 3 wheels, and having owned just about every brand, I can say without any smile on my face that I have had issues from time to time with every machine I have ever owned. And that goes to true clutch/shift models like my Yamaha Warrior, to my raptors, to the Grizzlys, to my Honda Rubicon that has a more auto-hydraulic transmission/torque converter like tranny etc. They all have issues from time to time, and what I have found as the root cause is lack of maintenance. I ride them, rarely wash them, even less going over every nut and bolt, lubing chains, clutch cables etc. I will hose it off before putting it away, but when it comes to digging under the bodywork... well, not so much. I can understand why I have the issues, Hey, I am not and will never be a certified mechanic. So other than the occasional take it to the dealer thing when it finally does quit running, and I get the oil changed at the same time because it is there. I am pretty bad. So do your maintenance. I think you will find that a lot of the wiggle waggle, bump it forward or reverse routine will go away if you give it a little love once in a while.

 

I think this problem has been cured in the newer models. If enough people had this problem, I can imagine a company like Can-Am would have made a design change to remedy it. Having to do that once on a new machine would be too often for me. Just copy Yamaha's cvt system if you want the blueprint to make a perfect cvt system, its the best there is.

 

I think that is the problem. Yamaha has their's patented, so you can't just simply copy the design without a huge lawsuit. I have it on very good authority from two guys that I trust implicity that work on these things day in and day out... one is lead mechanic at one of the largest, if not THE largest Can-am dealers in Canada, and who also is very famous for his highly modified builds on You tube... and another genius who makes a living rebuilding Can-am first gen and genii differentials, that as far as the diffs go, based on the projected riding style my wife and I have, I don't foresee any issues with the XMR diffs, as they are way stronger than the Gen1. Belts... well I am going in eyes wide open and knowing that I will smoke belts once in a while. I will run the stock one until it goes, then replace it with the Maverick belt, which is stronger. I will buy several of them at a time, and take the necessary tools with me to swap a belt in the field. Watching them do it on Youtube, it doesn't look too hard if you have the right tools for the job. Since I won't be changing tires for the near future, I am going to run the stock clutches and look for something else if I start to have issues with belts regularly. At some point, I plan on going the clutch kit route at least with my machine which will be used in harsher conditions than Mrs DB. Because I am going to be working my machine hard around the homestead, I felt the XMR made way more sense. For the price deltas, I see it as a win win. Clearly if the machines were modded, tire size changes etc, then that clutch decision would move up on the priority list as a result. I am going to stick with the stock exhaust too. About the only options I am looking at is the max strength lower bumpers, the full aluminum skid plate kit, and a plow for now. Maybe a set of tracks if it looks like traction is going to be a problem. With those aggressive mud tires on it stock, I doubt that is going to be an issue, but you never know. Bottom line is I don't want to do mods that are going to accelerate parts breakage. I want to ride them and use them as a tool, not have to use tools on them to keep them running. I have zero tolerance for deep mud and that is where most people having issues with these spend the majority of their riding time. I flat don't like to spend time cleaning either. I would caution however, don't listen to all the haters out there regarding stuff breaking. Stuff breaks plain and simple. Much of the reason is due to lack of maintenance and machine abuse. It you take care of it, it should last a long time. The majority of people expressing their opinions are getting theirs from a friend of a distant cousin twice removed... and they spread the crap like they actually went through it themselves, when the truth is, they have never even sat on a Can-am, or know anyone directly who has either. I also caution anyone that does purchase a Can-Am, that they provide a break in instruction that is KEY to long life. Follow the instructions and you should be OK. Although I have not owned a can-am ATV before, I have owned several ski-doos and Sea-doos over the years, and they all benefit from proper maintenance, and break in. It is only 10 hours... use it to learn the machine.

 

One last thing Greg. The problem is real and I believe there is still some work to be done. Even my friends will tell you that for the money, it would be an expectation that the parts would not have a problem, but they still occur. Maybe not at the frequency they used to, but there is still work to be done. Hey, it keeps them employed and food on the table. But it is still a black eye for BRP. And let's face it, they are not in business because of sales of new machines. Their bread and butter is through the work shops. So knowing a few parts are extreme wear items, I acknowledge that and adjust my riding style to mitigate that as best I can.

 

Actually guys, I recommend you check out a guy on youtube. His name is MechMike. he is in Canada, is a mechanic for a very large dealership chain, and specializes in high end builds. Every one of them includes a clutch kit and a heavy duty belt. Granted, they do a lot of deep mudding up there, and running larger tires than stock. Any time the tires are changed, the clutches come apart, and weights are changed. It is just part of the deal. You might want to take a look on his page for some insight.

 

On my new 2016 570 outlander L I have to do the Can Am rock to get it into gear occasionally so the problem hasn't been completely fixed.

 

Being new it may just need to get some miles on it too. But the rockin is pretty common on all makes.

 

Took a few quick rides on my son's Polaris Scrambler XP1000. Polaris has a straight, in-line shift. Yep, it's on the tight side and notchy. Not hard to push it past the gear you wanted because your initial shove had to be on the hard side. Have to shift it back to the proper gear fairly often.

 

I think the rocking issue is tied to the machine being in a gear or park, and there is pressure on it from it not being on level ground. I have seen this in just about every vehicle I have ever driven. Autos and manuals. I don't see this as a problem or a design flaw. The rocking allows the gear to move by reducing or removing the pressure.

 

That's likely a good part of it.