Ok, My friend has a RWR intake manifold, and a 45mm Keihin carb, and a k&N for the DS, and it's all brand new. He said the intake manifold would help a lot, but my engine is stock. I will have a K&N and a modded endcap in a few days. I want my Baja to still get good gas mileage, so I don't have to carry gas on long rides. Will these help me at all? He wants $100 for the new Maniold, and K&N. I didn't ask how much $ for the carb.

Also, my Baja has been revving lower, and getting hot after a 10min ride. It also seems I've lost power. My bud says it's just the rev limiter being broken in, but I think it's the valves. I've never checked valves before. Can I do it? I can do almost anything, but all my past wheelers were two strokes.

 

Oh yeah, and another question. Where is the CDI. is it that little black box on the left side, right under the plastic? What color wires do I use to hook up a Kill switch?

 

on the Kill switch not sure on the Baja but on the DS it is the black wire with the white strip that goes to the coils. On the Valve adjustment check outhttp://www.glamisdunes.net/valve_adjustment.htm. for the extra gas get a IMS 5 gal gas tank looks beter than the stock set-up and you can go a long way on 5 GAl.

 

Umm, thanks for the info, but I don't want to know how to carry extra gas. I want to know if the gas mileage will be worse, and will the performance be enhanced?

 

I don't think the 45mm manifold will work with a stock 42mm carb. If you get the manifold and 45mm carb, I don't think milleage will really change much if it is set-up/jetted correctly. You will get a power gain, but from what I hear, with a stock motor, not as much as you would like to expect. FYI - the RWR ported intake manifold costs $169.00.

No, the rev limiter does not "brake in". What do you mean "reving lower"? Getting hot - is the red light coming on? Overheating will cause a power loss, don't ride if you think that is what is happening.

You can check the valves yourself, I highly recommend a shop manual - I paid $50 at the dealer. After you see what it consists of to adjust them, you'll have to decide if you can do it. Dual overhead cams, no rocker arms to adjust, cams need removed and shims replaced for adjustment.

You're correct on the CDI location.

 

Hey adamscrambler the 45mm carb works just fine on a stock sort of motor i had it with the ron woods stage 1 and it worked very well.And i had a 51 mile radius
so i would jump on it if i were you OH GET A PIPE TOO!! remove air box lid and jet accord.it dose have a minor dead spot at take off but if the carb has been updated that gose away.

 

Ok, The carb is a 45mm Keihin, and I think the intake Manifold is 45mm too. He has a RWR stage 3 and uses a 48mm carb now. I will be getting a modded endcap soon. How much of a power gain would you expect with the carb, K&N with lid off, Manifold, and Modded endcap? How many mods will I need to outrun my bud's KX125 dirtbike? What is a good price for the carb, Manifold, and K&n?

Also, (I'm trying to do this so the moderator doesn't lock the thread) would anybody know where to find some used mods for the DS? I need some stuff, and I'm broke. If you happen to know where some are, please PM me.

 

If the carb came with the Ron Wood kit, it is a Mikuni TM45, not Keihin, and the carb kit with manifold and filter is around $600 from Ron Wood Racing. If it is a Keihin, I don't know what they cost, but probably pretty close.

If you're strapped for cash, then don't bother with the carb kit - your biggest/cheapest gains on your stock motor will come from better exhaust flow (modded end cap or slip-on pipe), K&N with no lid, and Dynojet needle with appropriate main jet (get the kit). This will get you considerable bottom end gains, with a couple horses on top to boot. Then again, knowing the price of the carb kit, if he's giving you a good deal, then like AZ said, jump on it. If I went with the carb kit, I'd want a full exhaust system to reap its benefits.

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