CAN-AM (BRP) Discussions about CAN-AM ATVs.

What should i do next?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 07-10-2002, 01:59 AM
mxzxracin's Avatar
Pro Rider
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 431
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I was wondering what some of you people found to be the best mods for your ds?
I have
-K&N air firler
-outwears
-team alba pipe
-dura blue axle
-22" sur trak tires
-tachometer

What do you think would make my wheeler better? (I trail ride and Jump a lot)
 
  #2  
Old 07-10-2002, 03:54 AM
Hightower's Avatar
Extreme Pro Rider
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 3,859
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

If you get a Dynojet kit ($50) and install it by their instructions, you will instantly be amazed with your new throttle response. For even more power gains, remove your lid on your airbox. If you do remove the lid, use Stage 3 instructions, if you stay with the lid because you ride a lot of creeks then use Stage 1 directions. I'll bet you a cold beer you'll love it and do not go back to the stock needle. Wheelies will be much easier, better low end through better throttle response, guaranteed. Order direct from Dynojet website, or get it from Dennis Kirk.

Then, get yourself the RWR CDI box ($300). Its not just a rev box - it boasts performance increases throughout the rev range, achievable by advancing the ignition timing several degrees beyond the stock box. You've already got the tach, lack of rev limiter is of no concern.

After this stuff you'll start getting addicted to drag racing, and that's when you'll begin to realize that your clutch is slipping from the extra HP you've added, combined with the speed shifting you're trying to master. To combat this you'll need heavy duty clutch springs - available from Pami ($50), RWR ($24), Alba, Barnett ($17). After installing the springs (its easy) you can now change to a semi-synthetic blend oil, which would only cause worse slipping without them.

Do all the above and you may have a chance at beating me!![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
 
  #3  
Old 07-10-2002, 09:53 AM
DSaholic's Avatar
Pro Rider
Join Date: May 2000
Posts: 790
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

What hightower said! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
 
  #4  
Old 07-10-2002, 02:24 PM
mxzxracin's Avatar
Pro Rider
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 431
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I think i will start saving and do that. Thanks A Lot hightower.

Right now i only have 100 dollars. So if i get the dynojet kit, should i just go ahead and get the clutch springs? then once i get enough money get the cdi box?

Thanks for all the info.
 
  #5  
Old 07-10-2002, 02:37 PM
ThePunisher's Avatar
Pro Rider
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,666
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Don't worry about the clutch springs yet. I have Ron Woods Stage 1 kit and I have yet to notice any clutch slippage what so ever. Don't fan the clutch like a 2 stroke and you will be ok. You don't need to fan the clutch anyway with all the torque these monsters have. He is right about the Dynojet kit though, you should definatley go for that! Also gear down one tooth in front, go to a 15 tooth sprocket and you will notice a huge difference also. The Dynojet kit and a 15 tooth sprocket are the first things besides a pipe that you should get. You can pick up the Kit and Sprocket for about that $100.00 bones you have. Good Luck, have fun, & ENJOY!!
 
  #6  
Old 07-10-2002, 03:20 PM
mxzxracin's Avatar
Pro Rider
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 431
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

All right, I took your guys suggestions and went with them, i ordered the dyno jet kit (stage 1&3) for 57.00 and i ordered for Alba a 15 tooth sprocket and bernett clutch springs. 50.00

Thanks A lot.
Nick
 
  #7  
Old 07-10-2002, 10:21 PM
Hightower's Avatar
Extreme Pro Rider
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 3,859
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

about the springs - the only slippage I've ever had was drag racing, particularly with 10 paddle haulers in sand, 'cause that's when you're revved the highest while shifting...normal trail riding has never revealed any slippage in my clutch. the slippage that did occur while dragging caused premature wear, and I had to replace my fiber disks after only 60 hours on the motor.
 
  #8  
Old 07-10-2002, 11:49 PM
mxzxracin's Avatar
Pro Rider
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 431
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Ohhh well I bought them anyway, its not like it can hurt to have them in there.
And Where exactly do they go and what do I have to do install them.

Thanks for all your help
 
  #9  
Old 07-10-2002, 11:57 PM
mxzxracin's Avatar
Pro Rider
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 431
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Also hightower what did you mean when you said "You can remove the airbox lid unless you ride alot of creeks" Are you saying that removing the airbox lid is a good idea as long as i dont go mudding alot?

Thanks alot
 
  #10  
Old 07-11-2002, 12:31 AM
Hightower's Avatar
Extreme Pro Rider
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 3,859
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Removing the lid worries some guys, because they're afraid getting crap on their filter, but unless you really like spinning around in puddles all day its really not a big deal. I run lid-free, and croos creeks all the time, but I cross them slow and keep major splashing to a minimum, and have never gotten a drop in the box. I leave the drain cap off the bottom too, so if a splash does get in then it can run right out. Outerwears is a must if you take the lid off. Power gain from running with no lid is noticable, just follow stage 3 instructions in the Dynojey kit, rather than stage 1, or you'll be too lean everywhere.

Clutch spring installation

The instructions sound extensive, but once you start you'll see its no biggie.
 

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:48 AM.