Yes I got my K&N filter for the airbox. My final carb settings aren't final yet. My RW pipe broke. The weather has been misearable so I haven't had much of a chance to do more tuning. I will be tuning the carb for the stock pipe with filter in airbox and then fine tune it when I get the pipe back, probably keeping the filter in the airbox. I will be running the accelerator pump and expect to get 2x the lowend and midrange power that the #155, #96 middle, #40 gives us.

 

Scooby- I have one of those K&N air/fuel moniter that I never used yet. The only problem with that is you have to cut a hole in your pipe and then weld a big nut on it so you screw the big old sensor in. It is a pain in the butt that why I didn't use it on my Ninja ZX-11. I still and tweaking my carb I put a 35 PJ a 160 main and set needle clip right in the middle. I had a 25pj 170 main and needle in leanest position and I almost burnt up the motor! Do you think I should hook up the accelarator pump? And what were your best settings with it.

 

I am still waiting to modify, maybe end of summer.
I have access to a four gas anylizer that has helped tremendously in tuning other bikes but as I said it will be some time before I modify, sorry, hate to let you down.

 

LUBA, Yeah I am hesitant to weld the fitting, but it is either that or pay the money to have the DS dyno'd.

Did you see the post with Ron's latest jetting - #40 pilot, #145 main, #96 jet needle leanest position. While I don't agree with the #40 pilot or the #145 main jet, I do agree that the jet needle was rich and needed to be adjusted.

I wonder why your bike is running leaner than the rest of us???

Jumping from a #40 pilot to a #25 AND putting the needle in the leanest position all at the same time is a big jump. Making the pilot leaner also makes the jet needle leaner since they are additive, so you REALLY leaned it up! Make sure that the pilot air screw is set correctly. I believe that those settings you tried were near what I was at when I had the accelerator pump running. Without the accelerator pump, you are probably right that the motor would be too lean.

If you have hesitation off idle and it affects your lowend power, I would get the pump hooked up. At one point, with the pump and leaner pilot, I was able to get the front end off the ground in first or second by just tapping the throttle - no clutch, no tug at handlebars, no leaning back on seat. It was a huge difference! The settings were #25 pilot, #97 jet needle in leanest position, #60 accel pump nozzle, pump stroke 0 to about .5 throttle, a #160 main jet, open K&N filter. I was getting some bogging, so I think the jet needle position was too lean. If I were you I would either try a #97 jet needle near the richest position or the #96 jet needle near the leanest position. These were settings for open K&N filter. With stock air filter they may be different.

By the way, I keep a notebook on the changes I make and there affect so I can remember this stuff.

I am hoping that on Saturday I can finialize the pilot jet, jet needle (#96 or #97), and the accel pump settings by using the stock exhaust and air filter. I don't expect to have to change them when I get the pipe back on. Only the needle position and main jet should need to be tweaked then. I'll let you know how it goes. If it rains again, it might have to wait until Sunday.

 

I think I will have mine dyno'd. They should have a exhaust probe that they can stick up the tail pipe to check the jetting. I wonder what they charge?

 

LUBA, I forgot to mention a few things about the accelerator pump. There are benefits to setting the pump real lean and only a short duration squirt of gas. You can decide how much gas you want to squirt. The more gas, the higher the chance of accidentally flooding the engine or running rich, which I have done a few times. Make sure you seat the accelerator boot into the carb by pushing down on the boot. When you slide the rod in place, be sure that the boot is stretched all the way out, not crunched together. I had problems with the rod sticking or resisting going down into to carb, and I had to stop the bike and twist the rod to keep it freed up. If the rod does not move freely you will notice the hesitation come back. Maybe because I was messing with the springs, I have this problem. You can easily remove the rod at any time to see the difference it is making. If the pump is working it is very obvious. The other thing you need to do is adjust the angle that the nozzle squirts gas into the 1-to-2 intake manifold. Mine was squirting gas into one intake and not the other causing one spark plug to be rich and not the
other. To get the pump running you need to remove the plug screw that Ron put in where the pump rod enters the carb. If you have any problems getting it working correctly, you can temporarily remove the rod to disable the pump.

 

LUBA.. I ran one of those Purolater "pro flow" fuel filters on my '71 Camaro Z28 last year and noticed that the filter let a lot of contaminants into the carb in a very short period of time! It looks good, but does not work! Hope this helps!

 

bigdaddy: How'd your tuning go?

LUBA: I can't find a dynojet center near me that has the ATV dyno. So, instead I have ordered an air/fuel meter and sensor.

I also ordered a thumb saver.

My pipe is on it's way back from being repaired.

This weekend I tested only the RW 45mm carb with the DS in stock form, except for the rev box. It turns out that the off idle hesitation is worse with the stock pipe and stock air filter setup. Without the pump you could stall the DS with a sudden tap of the throttle, due to lack of gas. When I hooked up the accelerator pump I couldn't get it to work as good as it did with the RW pipe and open K&N filter. I did reduce the hesitation with the pump but could not get as much lowend power as with the stock 42mm carb. I raced a guy running a stock DS650 with the baffle removed from the exhaust and lost. I checked the plugs and they looked OK, but I don't think you can do very fine tuning by just reading plugs. So the air/fuel meter is next, but it is not 100% accurate either. I will probably end up tuning both carbs and use the one that works better.

 

Is this Ron wood's Kit really worth all this hassel? Wouldnt your time be better spent having a pro do the fine tuneing for you. It seems that this Ron woods character seems alittle shadey to me reading all the troubles that you guys are haveing. Not getting a instruction manual with your parts or even a paper explaining common problems. Was ther even warranty info? From what Ive read in the first couple of days owning a kit and spending that kind of money one poor *******'s pipe breaks and this guy woudnt even send him another for replacement. As far as I see it that aint good PR. And from what I have been reading if you dont have RW install this kit it wont run right at all. Except for one indivdual but from what I understand his bike still backfires from time to time. So that still tells me it's not completely right. So I guess its about an 90% failure rate with this Kit. Unless your a pro and know what your doing and have all the equipment to test for yourself. Also I would be mindfull of what you guys post here on this forum I'm not trying to be rude but it seems as if you guys are doing all the testing for RW. I would keep this info to yourselves and pass it buy email if requested. Cause from what Ive seen so far this guy could write a book on all the testing you guys have done for him in here. Unless I'm mistaken thats what I'm understanding with what I'm reading. I have only one request from you guys what kind of performance increase would I see from a new cdi box with the rev limiter removed. And also I was thinking about getting a big gun pipe because there supposed to be quieter then stock? And if your running open air cleaners and no air cleaner boxes are you running threw water? And if so how do you keep your engine from sucking it up? I am new to this Rotax engine I have modifyed cars and trucks before and motorcycles 2 stroke but not these engines. So you might as well say I'm new to this.
Just alittle insite I thought I would throw at you guys to see what you think like I said I'm not trying to be a jerk just trying to understand things alittle better.

Bomber

 

I would have to agree with Bomber on a few things. Ron Woods' kits do seem focused on making a quick buck. Especially without distributing documentation or instructions, that's pretty **** poor in my opinion. If it were me, and I just spent $1500 and this guy wouldn't give me any tech support I'd rip him such a hole!

I just finished reading the latest Dirt Wheels article regarding the DS650 and RW's stage 3 kit. They didn't mention any problems with the kit, yet I doubt they installed it themselves.

Anyhow, I've learned my lesson, whether it's muscle cars, computers, or ATV's......if it's not broken...don't fix it.

'87 Mojave
'87 Tecate
'00 DS650 [Bigger IS Better]