IS THE RON WOODS STG 1 THE BOMB FOR THE DS?
#11
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I put the stock carb back on and tested out the exhaust & rev limiter/ignition advance. The rev box is sweet, mega RPMs now! The pipe of course gives me more low end. I'm not sure that the carb jetting was right for the high flow pipe. The mid & high range acceleration and smootheness seemed off a bit. Now more than ever I need better tires. More power does you no good if you can't get the power to the ground.
#12
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All I know about the Ds is that it is fast...I have a honda 440ex with a race cam and about 12 1 ince holes in the airbox with the duncan doubble barrel exaust and it's fast.....I just took it to some drag races and there was a Ds there that only had a Ron wood pipe and he took 2nd place out of about 50 different quads....he was even smoking the banshees that were all modded out....all I have to say is the Ds will be my next quad...
#13
#14
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ScoobyDFW:
I have no idea what elevation your at, but I'm guessing it's above Sea Level. Ron Woods Racing of Costa Mesa, CA (In spanish thats pretty close to meaning 'coastal plateau') is near the beach, also meaning they are at almost Sea Level. Thus, they would have jetted the carb rich if they jetted it for their shop. I've heard you need to adjust jetting about 3-5% per 1000 feet, so that may just be your difference. If you brought your DS650 to Costa Mesa, CA it might just run purrrrrfect there. If you decide to bring your DS650 to Costa Mesa to test it out, let me know so that I can come see it.. :P
I have no idea what elevation your at, but I'm guessing it's above Sea Level. Ron Woods Racing of Costa Mesa, CA (In spanish thats pretty close to meaning 'coastal plateau') is near the beach, also meaning they are at almost Sea Level. Thus, they would have jetted the carb rich if they jetted it for their shop. I've heard you need to adjust jetting about 3-5% per 1000 feet, so that may just be your difference. If you brought your DS650 to Costa Mesa, CA it might just run purrrrrfect there. If you decide to bring your DS650 to Costa Mesa to test it out, let me know so that I can come see it.. :P
#15
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I just got my wood rotax stage I kit. What a pain in the *** installing! First of all everything looks great, but there are no instructions at all. The new carb is BIG. How the hell do you get the old intake manifold's top bolt off? I guess I need a long 5mm ball hex key. That carb is totally different than the stock one-why no instructions mr. Wood anyway after I get it installed I let you know.
#16
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LUBA, It helps to remove the yellow gas tank cover for easiler access to the carb & manifold. Yeah, you need a standard metric allen wrench with a ball end to slide in the tight area. If you have the tool it is not too bad. No clamp for small header pipe - it just slips into the exhaust piece that holds the exhuast shield. Yes there is a clamp for the muffler/mid pipe connection. I recommend installing and testing ONE of the 3 items at a time!!! I'm having trouble with the carb jetting. More later...
#17
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ScoobyDFW- I actually took everything off the quad including the gas tank. Did you receive any instructions with your kit. I find it hard to beleive there aren't any, I mean I can see if this was all stock replacement parts. But this a $1440 race kit with all different brackets and a different carb. Anyway I too call Wood Rotax and asked if you get any jets with the carb and if it would be pre-jetted. They said it would be fine in Michigan. I seriously doubt that but I don't have any problem jetting a carb. It would be nice if they came with a jet kit. Also on the new carb there are just 2 lines (big and small). I assume the bigger line is the fuel line and the smaller line is the air or vent line, right? Did you run the vent line to the airbox. The stock carb has 3 air or vent lines,clear going to airbox,2 (1 on each side) going to the frame crossrail. Which did you eliminate? Thanks.
#18
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LUBA,
Maybe this carb diagram will help: ftp://ftp.sudco.com/diagrams/exphsr42.gif
No instructions. I was shocked at first, but as I looked over all the parts they began to make some sense, the carb being the most peculiar. I called Ron today and he is sending me two leaner main jets and one leaner pilot jet, free of cost, 2nd day UPS. He said I shouldn't need to change the jet needle, just lower or raise it as needed. The new carb has one large gray vent, one small black overflow line, plus the fuel line. The small overflow line hangs from the bottom of the carb. The gray large vent I ran to the frame where the old carb dual vents were. The fuel line does not have a tube connected to it. The clear tube that runs to the airbox I left sitting there. This is my understanding, but I could be wrong!
Since I was running rich, Ron also suggested trying a hotter spark plug. The standard plug is:
NGK DR8EA - D: 12mm Thread Diameter
R: Resistor Type
8: Heat Rating, 2 is Hot 10 is Cold
E: 19mm Reach
A: Special Design
I might try a 7 or 6 heat rating and/or a "better" spark plug.
I strongly recommend testing each of the 3 components individually.
Ron also told me that the air intake tube between the carb and the airbox loses 1.5 HP when he dyno'd different air filter configurations. I believe it too. If you hit the throttle, you can see the air intake tube squeeze inward as the carb sucks in air. This restricts airflow. I might run an open air filter with an outerwear.
Ron has a tachometer for the DS650 for $220, I think. It mounts to one of the handlebar bolts.
Maybe this carb diagram will help: ftp://ftp.sudco.com/diagrams/exphsr42.gif
No instructions. I was shocked at first, but as I looked over all the parts they began to make some sense, the carb being the most peculiar. I called Ron today and he is sending me two leaner main jets and one leaner pilot jet, free of cost, 2nd day UPS. He said I shouldn't need to change the jet needle, just lower or raise it as needed. The new carb has one large gray vent, one small black overflow line, plus the fuel line. The small overflow line hangs from the bottom of the carb. The gray large vent I ran to the frame where the old carb dual vents were. The fuel line does not have a tube connected to it. The clear tube that runs to the airbox I left sitting there. This is my understanding, but I could be wrong!
Since I was running rich, Ron also suggested trying a hotter spark plug. The standard plug is:
NGK DR8EA - D: 12mm Thread Diameter
R: Resistor Type
8: Heat Rating, 2 is Hot 10 is Cold
E: 19mm Reach
A: Special Design
I might try a 7 or 6 heat rating and/or a "better" spark plug.
I strongly recommend testing each of the 3 components individually.
Ron also told me that the air intake tube between the carb and the airbox loses 1.5 HP when he dyno'd different air filter configurations. I believe it too. If you hit the throttle, you can see the air intake tube squeeze inward as the carb sucks in air. This restricts airflow. I might run an open air filter with an outerwear.
Ron has a tachometer for the DS650 for $220, I think. It mounts to one of the handlebar bolts.
#19
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Hey Scooby,
If the DS uses a NGK DR8EA then you could also run a D8EA available at Discount auto parts for about 1.50 each and they stay open on Sunday until 9:00P.M.!! The "R" in DR8EA just means its a resistor plug that will cut out interference on boats. It is totally not needed on a quad. My dads TRX200SX has the same deal and the D8EA works fine.
I would get some jets from CT,LRD,Trinity,or FTZ. Take your pick and get that new carb adjusted right. If you do.....Look out!! I bet that think hauls. Man you are lucky.
CT250R
If the DS uses a NGK DR8EA then you could also run a D8EA available at Discount auto parts for about 1.50 each and they stay open on Sunday until 9:00P.M.!! The "R" in DR8EA just means its a resistor plug that will cut out interference on boats. It is totally not needed on a quad. My dads TRX200SX has the same deal and the D8EA works fine.
I would get some jets from CT,LRD,Trinity,or FTZ. Take your pick and get that new carb adjusted right. If you do.....Look out!! I bet that think hauls. Man you are lucky.
CT250R