On the tech connection forum "Greg" states that the correct jetting is 14.7 to 1(air fuel mix). Go and read it as it is very helpful. He states that after changes are made such as free flowing exhaust and more air intake to go up 5 main jet sizes and ride it...it skips on top....jet down until the top end skipping quits and you now have the correct jetting for that altitude and air temp for that day...it does work as I have been through this with a warrior.

 

After another weekend of jetting I have finally started to understand what is going on with this carb:

1. Ron has the pilot circuit set too rich, causing the low end throttle response to be off peak. He has done this to minimize the hesitation off idle.

2. The pilot being too rich is causing the midrange to be rich, thus throwing it's throttle response off peak.

3. Ron has the main jet too lean, causing the top end speed & power to be off peak.

This is true for everyone, not just my carb!

Where I am at right now is #40 Pilot, #96 Jet Needle in leanest position, #170 Main Jet. I still need to get the accelerator pump working and go down on the pilot jet. The bike is starting to come back alive again. This kit does rock!

(Forget to mention I am running an open K&N filter with this jetting. The jetting is different for stock air filter in airbox!!!)

I will post more details later...

 

Scooby-how you find all that out. Mine rocks right out of the box. Except the pilot off it will backfire after shutting down once in a while. I am running stock filter no lid, haven't got my K&N yet. Where did you get that Sudco Mikuni carb tuning manual. I went to Sudco website but it doesn't seem like they sell to the public, or do they. I want one.

P.S. Do you have a prefilter or outerwear over your K&N? Does anyone make them for a K&N DS filter.

 

LUBA: I figured this out by reading the Sudco/ Mikuni Carb Tuning Manual www.ctracing.com/tools.htm or www.sudco.com/mikuni.html, talking to a harley dealership that sells the HSR42/45 kits, reading the techconnection posts on jetting, reading posts in the forums, experimenting with the pilot and main circuits by changing the pilot jet, jet needle, main jet, altering the amount of airflow by removing the filter to see the affect, reading the spark plugs, reading the exhaust pipe deposits, and taking the time to ride the DS paying attention to the effect the changes had on lowend, midrange, topend power and acceleration, and off idle hesitation. It has been a pain in the neck, but well worth it! But I'm not finished yet!

LUBA, if your not feeling a "hit" or a "lighting up" in the midrange similar to the stock DS650, your jet needle is off peak. Also, if your jet needle is off peak you will not be able to rip through the first 4 gears and get into 5th in less than 3-4 seconds in a drag - the DS will bog and hold you back from shifting so quickly. With a main jet of #155@45mm diameter when the stock carb comes with a #165@42mm diameter, I can't see how you can get much topend speed out of the DS, aside from being able to go over the rev limit. As for the bottom end, I'm not quite done, but I would bet wheelies will be even more easy once the pilot is tuned and the accelerator pump working.

I bought the Sudco/ Mikuni Carb Tuning Manual from CT Racing. There is also an HSR45 owners manual available from Mikuni. Sudco does sell to the public! I just received some jets today.

I don't have the outerwear yet, I need to find something that fits. I don't know anything about the DS K&N filter for the airbox, I am still waiting on mine as well.

When you lower the pilot jet, you are going to have more of a problem with the hesitation when hitting the throttle quick, but it will run smoother during the first 1/4 throttle as long as you roll on the throttle. You will need the accelerator pump for sure then - no guarentees but this is what I predict.

I was able to free up the tension in the spring to run the thumb throttle without wearing my thumb out, but let me warn you it took a very, very, very long time carefully tweaking on the spring to get it just right. If you plan on doing this, the safest thing to do is order a replacement spring from sudco, incase you mess up the spring you have. You will need between a 1/16 and 3/16 punch to get the lock pin out to free the spring. Don't lose that pin or damage it! I would recommend the grinding approach to reduce the tension in the spring as opposed to reducing the initial loaded tension.

Much more later...

 

HEY PETESKIP I HAVE THE BOMB FOR YA BUY A HONDA 400 EX THEN YOU DONT NEED TO WORRY ABOUT SPENDING ALL THE EXTRA$$$$$$$$$$ TO MAKE IT FASTER!!!! THEN YOU JUST HAVE TO BUY GAS AND GO BABY!!! Ride Hard and Ride red it takes a lot of guts to buy brand new when NO one really knows the qaulity of the big yellow machine i wish you all the best with it PETESKIP but remember we ride with a lot of redriders so be cool and have fun!!!See ya Sunday for the "GUYS DAY" of riding and drinkin (soda pop)HAHAHA!!! Tooo bad all our buddies are PW'd !!! See ya sunday!!!!!!!

 

Sorry once again everyone. Please don't try to mess with the throttle spring tension if you plan on using the accelerator pump! Heres why: When the accelerator pump is connected, there are springs that counter the tension in the throttle return spring, easing it a bit. In my case, the throttle spring is now to loose when the accelerator pump connected. I can fix it, so it's not a disaster, but I'll save you guys the headache of learning this yourselves! Boy I'd like to ring someones neck about now...Ron what are doing to us with these carb mods???

Let me tweak my spring once more so I can get this baby running again.

That accelerator pump sure does pump a lot of gas in the main bore!

 

Accelerator pump is up and running! Couldn't really test it out yet 'cause it was 10:30pm and the neighbors would flip due to the noise, but I started it and everything seemed fine so far. I have 95% confidence that this will solve the hesitation problem.

 

Scooby-Do you know off the top of your head the sizes of all wood's main, pilot, and etc. in their carb? I want to go to the harley dealer and make myself a jet kit. I think i will buy jets both up and down like 5 sizes from what ron uses. I just got a 37.5 pilot jet from wood they charged me $2.75 for it i will buy my own. Did you get all your jets from ron and did he charge you. I will buy the carb tuning manual too, thanks.

 

LUBA, The Mikuni 45mm carb that Ron ships comes with a #96 jet needle, #155 main jet, #40 pilot jet, and #70 accelerator pump nozzle.

I don't think you will want to go down on the main jet, just up - maybe #160-#175.

The pilot jet will probably need to be lowered if you use the accelerator pump - maybe around #25-#30.

The jet needle comes in a richer #95 and two leaner sizes of #97 & #98. The #96 might be OK, as long as you can move the needle up & down. I have all 4 just in case.

The accelerator pump nozzle comes in a #60 and #50 which are both leaner.

Ron was charging me, so I decided to buy them "instantly" at the harley dealership and from sudco as well if I couldn't find the size I needed.

 

Scooby- What is missing from the accelerator pump, and what is involved in hooking it back up? Also why did ron scrap it, and have you/will I see a benefit from using it. Oh yeah, one more question what is that bolt with the washers and nut that came with the throttle cable and the silver bent bracket with the slot on one end and a hole on the other. DAMN ron for not sending instructions.