IS THE RON WOODS STG 1 THE BOMB FOR THE DS?
#51
![Default](https://atvconnection.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
LUBA, Maybe this carb diagram will help: ftp://ftp.sudco.com/diagrams/exphsr42.gif
(See cable bracket item #18 in diagram, it bolts onto the engine side of the carb. The thumb throttle cable goes down through the top of the bracket)
(The ron wood thumb throttle cable has its own bolt, nut and washer that mounts into the throttle housing on the handlebars - just remove the stock cable from the throttle housing and plug in the new cable)
The accelerator pump rod and boot are missing as well as the accelerator pump adjustment screw that goes through the top cover of the carb.
It is simple to hook up. You have to remove the bottom carb bowl and remove a plug screw that Ron put in where the rod enters the carb bowl. The rod and boot slide on in a second and the adjuster screw just screws in!
RWR told me that the accelerator pump was for weak motors and that it would flood the engine. The accelerator pump will flood the engine if you use the throttle when the engine is off. When the engine is on, hopefully it will get rid of the hesitation off idle and not flood the engine if adjusted correctly. It is supposed to give instant throttle response and improved acceleration. The need for the pump arises due to lack of air flow through the carb at idle when the throttle valve is closed. When the throttle valve suddenly opens as you hit the throttle, there is a momentary lean condition due to lack of fuel in the main bore. The lack of fuel is due to the lack of airflow across the main jet opening which draws the gas into the main bore. Once the motor starts to rev up, the airflow increases and then the fuel is drawn from the main jet, creating the correct the air/fuel mixture. The accelerator pump is supposed to be adjusted to start injecting fuel into the main bore as soon as the throttle starts to open and to stop injecting fuel at 3/4 throttle.
(See cable bracket item #18 in diagram, it bolts onto the engine side of the carb. The thumb throttle cable goes down through the top of the bracket)
(The ron wood thumb throttle cable has its own bolt, nut and washer that mounts into the throttle housing on the handlebars - just remove the stock cable from the throttle housing and plug in the new cable)
The accelerator pump rod and boot are missing as well as the accelerator pump adjustment screw that goes through the top cover of the carb.
It is simple to hook up. You have to remove the bottom carb bowl and remove a plug screw that Ron put in where the rod enters the carb bowl. The rod and boot slide on in a second and the adjuster screw just screws in!
RWR told me that the accelerator pump was for weak motors and that it would flood the engine. The accelerator pump will flood the engine if you use the throttle when the engine is off. When the engine is on, hopefully it will get rid of the hesitation off idle and not flood the engine if adjusted correctly. It is supposed to give instant throttle response and improved acceleration. The need for the pump arises due to lack of air flow through the carb at idle when the throttle valve is closed. When the throttle valve suddenly opens as you hit the throttle, there is a momentary lean condition due to lack of fuel in the main bore. The lack of fuel is due to the lack of airflow across the main jet opening which draws the gas into the main bore. Once the motor starts to rev up, the airflow increases and then the fuel is drawn from the main jet, creating the correct the air/fuel mixture. The accelerator pump is supposed to be adjusted to start injecting fuel into the main bore as soon as the throttle starts to open and to stop injecting fuel at 3/4 throttle.
#53
![Default](https://atvconnection.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I never thought I'd say this, but I'm thinking that ron might have intentionally tuned down the carb so people don't kill themselves on the bike...
Today I tested the DS with the accelerator pump, #25 pilot jet, #96 jet needle in leanest position, and #170 main jet. The accelerator pump definitely helped with the hesitation problem. However, I think it was running too rich now with the extra gas from the pump. I'll have to play with it some more.
While experimenting with the carb today, I discovered we are getting no where near the low end power that this kit has to offer!!! With the accelerator pump disabled and a #25 pilot jet, the low end power went through the roof!!! Front end off the ground with tap of throttle from low RPM in first or second gear. Probably at least 2X the low end power if not much, much more. Why the hell does ron have a #40 pilot jet in there??? However, without the accelerator pump, the hesitation increases.
I noticed something unusual on the top of the throttle valve. It looks as if a part of it has been broken off. I might have to ask ron if he has messed with the throttle valve as well.
Is anyone else good at jetting a carb, because I could use some help figuring all this out.
Today I tested the DS with the accelerator pump, #25 pilot jet, #96 jet needle in leanest position, and #170 main jet. The accelerator pump definitely helped with the hesitation problem. However, I think it was running too rich now with the extra gas from the pump. I'll have to play with it some more.
While experimenting with the carb today, I discovered we are getting no where near the low end power that this kit has to offer!!! With the accelerator pump disabled and a #25 pilot jet, the low end power went through the roof!!! Front end off the ground with tap of throttle from low RPM in first or second gear. Probably at least 2X the low end power if not much, much more. Why the hell does ron have a #40 pilot jet in there??? However, without the accelerator pump, the hesitation increases.
I noticed something unusual on the top of the throttle valve. It looks as if a part of it has been broken off. I might have to ask ron if he has messed with the throttle valve as well.
Is anyone else good at jetting a carb, because I could use some help figuring all this out.
#55
![Default](https://atvconnection.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Well people, I'm getting close to figuring this carb out once and for all! Today I was running with the accelerator pump disabled, #25 pilot jet, #160 main jet, #97 jet needle (one size leaner than standard) in leanest position, open K&N filter. Aside from the hesitation that I hope to get rid of with the accelerator pump, with these settings I am getting mega lowend power and mega midrange power. The DS is screaming now! I've almost flipped the DS now during a wheelie! You can wheelie no problem now in first or second from low RPM without the clutch and with almost no tug at the handlebars. There is so much power, you have to adjust your riding habits. The throttle response is unusual. I can reach above 7700 RPM at like 1/2 throttle. I need to get my tachometer hooked up before I blow this motor! I also noticed that the pilot air screw now behaves as mikuni says it should - a peak between 0.5 and 3 turns out. If you're not getting a peak in this range, your pilot jet is incorrect and/or the jet needle needs changing and/or a height adjustment.
I am convinced that Ron Wood & Bombardier have intentionally tuned the throttle response of this bike way, way, way, way, way down for safety/liability reasons.
I am convinced that Ron Wood & Bombardier have intentionally tuned the throttle response of this bike way, way, way, way, way down for safety/liability reasons.
#56
![Default](https://atvconnection.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Today I re-enabled the accelerator pump. I am using a leaner #60 accelerator pump nozzle. I have adjusted the pump to begin it's stroke as soon as the throttle starts to move and end it's stroke fairly early, probably less than 1/2 throttle, to provide only the minimum gas required to fix the hesitation, so that I am not running rich causing a lose of power. The pump is working great. I might do some more fine tuning of the jetting.
#57
![Default](https://atvconnection.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Is anyone experiencing a slight bog in the mid to upper RPM range, from time to time with the ron woods kit? I have noticed it during a drag race when I get into 4th and 5th gear. The first 3 gears reach 7700RPM in no time, but then the next two gears can bog a little - in other words, when I shift into 4th or 5th, and open the throttle full, the RPMs drop slightly, the acceleration seems to fall a little, and I feel like I'm waiting for the DS to accelerate. I've also noticed the bog when I am wide open spinning the tires in second or third and then the tires start to grip. Once the tires start to grip, the RPM drops suddenly a little bit, and it takes a second to accelerate. The stock DS650 didn't have this problem. When the tires began to grip, you accelerated like crazy without any engine bog. The stock DS650 never bogged on me in a drag race either. At one point I thought I had the jetting setup to eliminate this problem, but it is back again. Is anyone experiencing this?
#58
![Default](https://atvconnection.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I give you guys with the Woods kit credit. If it weren't dialed-in perfectly by now, I would have sent it back and demanded a full refund. I'd be pissed if I paid $1500 and had to go through all of that. But that is because I am somewhat of an impatient person.
Just to make a note of it, Scooby stated that he installed his kit March 24 and Luba said he installed his March 28. 24 and 20 days ago, respectively. The power gains must be worth that hassle.
Just to make a note of it, Scooby stated that he installed his kit March 24 and Luba said he installed his March 28. 24 and 20 days ago, respectively. The power gains must be worth that hassle.