I bought a K&N over the weekend and installed my jet kit also. Are those ungodly tight bowl screws somebody's form of a bad joke? Having to beat the "H" out of something as delicate as a carborator don't seem right, but that's the only way I could get them loose. Anyway, In beating on the carb; I got the 2 screws that hold the throttle cable housing on to come loose. I got the bottom screw tightened up, but how do I get to the top one with the cable cam in the way?
Second, the rubber hose that comes out the bottom of the bowl is just a vent tube, right? In classic form, I didn't pay close enough attention before I took things apart, and was left with a hose that seemed to go nowhere. Is it natural for gas to come out of it while the carb bowl fills back up? It dripped out fast at first, and then slowed down after a short while. After beating on it so hard getting the screws loose. I'm wondering if everything is okay.
It runs just a tad rich, but otherwise picked up great. I didn't expect that much of an improvement, but got one. The nose don't seem glued to the ground anymore. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] My next move is for better sand tires and a CDI after that.

 

Your Story is VERY common.....mine was the same way...even on my Warrior...and everybody else...by the way, how do you like your HMF??

 

Hoover
The HMF worked great. I honestly can't see any other pipe working much better, especially considering the price.

 

The hose that comes out of the bottom of the bowl is a drain. If you turn the screw right next to where the hose goes it will drain the bowl. The hose hangs down between the swingarm and frame.
Did you change your bowl screws to 4mm stainless allens?

 

A small vise grip works well to remove the original bowl screws. Saves beating up the carb with an inpact driver.

 

A drain...that makes sense. I probably just knocked that screw loose too. I'll double check in the morning. I couldn't find any stainless metric bolts, let alone allen, so I used basic hex heads. I can use a nut driver on them, and they definately shouldn't rust before I find stainless replacements. Besides, anything is better than phillips head screws. So, what do I have to take apart to get to the top screw of the throttle cable housing? I'm guessing I'll have to pull the carb off the bike for this one, but I want to make sure first. Maybe all these ??'s means it's time to break down and buy a shop manual, so I'll know what's going on before I take it apart...[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]

 

Try ACE Hardware for the allen head stainless screws, that is where I got mine.
As for the throttle cable screws, I took the carb off the intake and airbox tube and dropped it down when I installed my twist throttle.

 

Lightweight,

I bought my 4x10mm and 4x12mm screws from MCMaster online, however I had to buy 50 of each. I found out days later that the Do-It Center a mile from my house stocks stainless steel allen head screws as well as an excellent variety of other things. You might try their website and see if one is local to you, also I've used True Value hardware stores for similar items.

If you still can't find the screws anywhere near you, email me and I'll mail you three 4x10mm and one 4x12mm 316 stainless steel allen head screws just for being a nice guy.

 

Thanks for the offer, but I can probably find the stainless bolts around here. I was just doing this on a sunday evening, so all but one store was closed. I just simply wanted to get everything back in one piece, to make sure it still ran after I "improved" it.

 

Next Time get an impac screw driver it will help alot and not strip the bolts out.