can't get DS650 ro run
#21
can't get DS650 ro run
You can not get 180 out, if the piston is at TDC and the marks on the cam gears face each other perfectly you are in time. Take the bottom bolt out turn the engine over until you see a notch get a longer bolt with the correct threads grind a point on it put a nut on it for a jam nut, put the bolt in the notch and snug the jam nut down that will hold at TDC get help or be handy with working 2 wrenches at once hold the foreward cam tight against the chain with the mark pointing to the other cam keep moving the chain on the rear cam until they line up perfectly install the tentioner remove the crank bolt turn the engine 360 and make sure the lines come back together.
tripple check that the crank holding bolt is removed and the shorter bolt reinstalled
Good Luck, Scott
As for trash talking " My dad can beat up your dad"
tripple check that the crank holding bolt is removed and the shorter bolt reinstalled
Good Luck, Scott
As for trash talking " My dad can beat up your dad"
#22
can't get DS650 ro run
ANg is right. The cam dictates which stroke the piston is on, and since you are setting the timing with the cams you just have to have it at TDC.
On a serious sidenote, ALWAYS turn the motor over by hand if you are not sure you have the timing 100%, that way if it hits a wall, there is a good reason for it and you didn't do any damage.
On a serious sidenote, ALWAYS turn the motor over by hand if you are not sure you have the timing 100%, that way if it hits a wall, there is a good reason for it and you didn't do any damage.
#23
can't get DS650 ro run
It still don't make no sense to me, b/c thats what i did, except i couldn't get the marks lined exactly up it was maybe one tooth off but there was no in between, to line them up perfect. I don't get how it would blow air out the exhaust if i was (maybe) a tooth off on timing?
#24
can't get DS650 ro run
Hey smokin make sure that the small hole in the cam gear, that indexis the cam to the gear is at the top with the lines lined up when it is at top dead center and it has to be right. There ar two holes in the cam gear the one closest to the bolt is the one you need at the top. Hope that helps later and good luck!
#25
can't get DS650 ro run
Well, since you seem to be very sure that the cam timming is correct. Did you place the piston so that the small size pockets in the top of the piston were faceing the front of the quad. Did you follow the piston ring installation. If the rings are not properly installed you may not have enough compression to start the bike.
Just a thought.
Just a thought.
#27
can't get DS650 ro run
I didn't mean to do any reverse aggresion here. I think you Yammy guy's are right, he shouldn't go on your forum and talk smack either. I apologoize for my slight outburst, I guess hence the name Angry baja boy! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] LOL. I just come from a huge snowmobile background and over all these years I got sick and tired of hearing, Polaris is better than Arctic cat, or ETC, ETC. the bottom line is most manufacturers are very similar, what vehicle is best is solely dependent on the abilities of the person riding it. There are to many factors involved, weight , Clearances and tolerances, and the list goes on. Explain Demons DS that thing stock was smoking every quad with a pipe and carb mods out there, and he is a pretty big guy! The guy I ran up against last week at Dumont with the Stock and I mean Bone stock Baja, it took everything my quad has just to stay with him. And I have a 12:5:1 piston and Cams and a 45mm carb! The only excuse I can figure is that my quad wasn't broken in yet after the rebuild, I only had about 3hrs on it. Anyway let's just have fun and call it good, OK? Allright! So back to the DS problem. It doesn't matter what stroke the piston is, Top dead center is top dead center, it is all in your cams! The 2 holes closest to the bolt should be facing straight up, cam lobes almost straight out and marks lined up with the little arrows on chain guide bridge. Also make sure the pins on the cam are actually throught the holes on the sprockets, I wasn't paying attention and the sprocket had slipped a little and i tightened the sprocket down and I thought it was ok. I looked at the cam and thought that is weird my marks are line up but my exhaust cam lobes look like they are up in the air more than straight across. Well guess what 5 seconds after I noticed that the cam flange snapped from the pressure! I had to replace that cam. Costly mistake![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-disgusted.gif[/img] You just have to fiddle with the slack in the chain and you will get it lined up. Remember to make the chain tight on the Exhaust cam side first, this is your base starting point and this is how you line up your timing marks. Line up the exhaust timing mark first with the chain tight on the exhaust side and then you can put the intake sprocket in and line it up to the mark using the the chain slack. Remember to keep the chain tight Clockwise! With the slack at the 3:00 o'clock position or towards the tensioner side of the motor. Also I hope you have a lot of different shims because you are probably going to need them. Cams line up they should be .004 to .006 inches not milimeters. My intake cams at .004 are barely touching the buckets and I think this is a flaw from Web Cams. Run the exhaust as loose as possible because the exhaust valves tend to expand a little. I suggest running them at a comfortable .006 to .007. The intake .005 or.006 preferably a little tighter. Remember as the motor wears the shims will loosen up and your tolerances will open up more. So it is ok to run them at the tighter tolerances. The thing that sucks is it is harder than hell to find the under the bucket shims. Wait! do you have under the bucket shims? Anyway give it a try. If you still have questions you can call me if you like during the day at (818) 402-6458. I usuallly up and out at 6:00 a.m. and in bed by 10:00 p.m. so go ahead and call if you like. Good Luck.
#28
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