Ok, I only have 64-65lbs of compression again.........I have a Woods Racing 11.5:1 Piston. What could be causing this? I just had it running last night........It seems like everytime I get one thing fixed another goes wrong. My local dealer is crap so Im not even considering going back to them again.

 

Update: I found my Dynojet Carb Needle is bent & the boot between the carb & the cylinder is broken. Could these cause the lack of Compression?

 

did you'r dealer reuse you'r old head gasket?

 

Kodiak You problem with the carb will not have any effect on compression. The only things that effects compression are rings, valves, gaskets or warp head. Lose fitting ring lets air out; add a little oil too your cylinder and due a compression test if your pressure goes up bad rings it stays the same bad valve or warp head. When you take off your head check it for square and check valves to make sure they are fully seated.

 

Im thinking its my valves, because I have a brand new Piston, Rings, & Gaskets............so, maybe tonight I'll pull the valve cover off.

 

Kodiak,
Those things by themselves wont cause a low compression reading but a bent needle will make it very difficult to install the slide because the needle won't go into the needle jet. What usually happens then is the needle misses the jet and the slide is proped full open (wide open throttle). If you're careful when you assemble the slide and you are able to get the needle into the jet, the bent needle will make the slide stick and it could stick closed or (even worse) wide open. You can usually straighten the needle pretty easy.
A torn boot will make it way to lean to start or run without the choke pulled out depending on the size of the hole. It definately won't run right and if you are able to run it that way you stand a chance of dusting your engine. All the dust around you will be sucked into the engine and will act like sandpaper on the rings and cylinder walls. This will cause low compression . It doesn't take very long either.

Also remember, there is an automatic compression release built onto the cam that holds a valve open during start-up. Once the cam turns faster then starting rpm the valve is released and the engine sees normal compression. This takes the burden of cranking a high compression engine off the starter and makes it much easier to start, especially with 11.5:1 compression.

My suggestion is to check your valve clearence (or lack of) you may have a tight valve causing your compression problem. While you're in there disable the auto compression release and check compression again. You may find there is nothing wrong.

 

Ok, once again I got it to start tonight and it runs beutifully once running. I went to the local Ace Hardware and got a rubber boot & cut it to the right size, changed the plugs (champions......NGK on order), Tightened the Exhaust. & charged the battery..........after all that it started up, after about 2 or 3 minutes.

If It does'nt start tomarrow, I'll post again.

 

It started this morning.......its about 56 degrees, maybe a bit cooler since it was in the garage. It fired right away, the only thing is I had to hold the throttle wide-open, and then it would fire about 4 or 5 times before it started. Its idling right now, what could be the cause.

PS. I found why my compression was so low, I forgot about the compression release thingy.