Any experience with this one? My son's DS650 clutch lever got harder to pull all of a sudden and the clutch quit working. It acts like it is neutral all the time. Would that be a blown clutch or a broken spring in the clutch setup? And if it is the clutch, are any special tools needed to replace it? I have done car clutches but no Motorcycle or ATV's yet. Probably need to replace the waterpump gaskets and casing gaskets when replacing the clutch. Anything else I should replace while I am in there? Thanks for your help.

 

Mine never got hard to pull when it went out. But did feel like it was in neutral. The clutch is very, very easy to change. Getting the replacement disks took some time though. I've had my side case off a couple times and no gasket change was needed. Lucky so far. Same with the water pump. I swaped out my clutch in the desert one time in 30 to 45 minuites. After you drain the rad fluid. Tip the bike on it's side and you won't have to drain the oil. However in this case I would recomend chaging the oil.

 

Any idea what would cause the clutch to just quit working and just have a hard lever to pull. The clutch never slipped, it just quit, like it is in neutrel? Maybe a spring or bold broke?

 

My clutch actuator inside the clutch broke one of the teeth off the actuator. I think they called it a rack actuator. Then what would happen to me was the clutch would stick, then the lever would move freely, but the clutch was actually not moving at all. Acted like it was in neutral or whatever. I ordered a new rack actuator and the shaft.

It could be something similar on yours. Not really sure, you will have to open up the side case and inspect to find the root of the problem.

I have had my clutch side cover off twice and not replaced any of the gaskets and no leaks to date.

Hope it helps
Bat

 

Like Bat said......
I have seen the actuator teeth go bad a few times now......take a good look at them
Jeff

 

Hey guys, Thanks for the input. The actual hand clutch lever and the clutch lever on the side of the engine caseing both move through their entire motion but harder than usual. I wanted to get the parts before I tore it down, but does not matter either way. Got to just tear it down and see what's up with it. Anybody have the same problem with the clutch? Thanks again.

 

I have never had my clutch cover off yet but can't you do it without removing the water pump cover? That would save some time and antifreeze.

 

JUST PULL THE HOSES OFF AND DRAIN THE EXCESS ANTIFREEZE THAT COME OUT DON'T BOTHER WITH TAKING THE WATERPUMP COVER OF JUST MAKE SURE YOU UNDO THE STARTER BOLTS

 

The hoses look like they will flex enough to move the cover up and out of the way without removing them. Like I said, I havn't tried it but I sure would rather not drain the coolant if I don't have to. Just more time and mess. Has anybody tried this????

 

I haven't tried it with the hoses still connected. I don't think it would work because the side case needs to slide out far enough to clear the shifter shaft. And I don't think the short hose from the pump to the head is long enough. But I could easily be wrong. It's not a mess at all any way. The bottom bolt on the pump cover is a drain plug. I just drain it into a big O del taco cup. I always put in new coolant. But I supose you don't have too.