Stupid dealer says that the crows foot needed to torque the nut is back ordered! Go Figure![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-mad.gif[/img] So if some one has a pic I may be able to fabricate one some how. Or does anyone else have any ideas?

 

Look here:
http://home.swbell.net/tharthun/home...ingpreload.htm

 

$60.32 + tax and shipping from Snap-on tools for Wrench, Crowfoot, Open End with Side Lock, 2 1/2"
part# FC80A

 

Wanting to do things by the book is all fine and dandy but we are still talking about setting the preload on tapered roller bearings here. I keep reading 40 ft,lbs torque and I still can't beleive it. Thats an awful lot of torque for the preload. Doesn't anybody else that has worked with tapered roller bearings think that is excessive? [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img] It scares the hell out of me.
In my 20+ years maintaining fleets, setting up differentials and rebuilding transmissions I never heard of putting 40 ft,lbs torque on the preload...this has to be a typo. Maybe its supposed to say 4 ft,lbs or 40 in,lbs. I guess time will tell.
Personnally I set them the way I set all wheel bearings;

Tighten the nut real tight while spinning the wheels (use a large pair of channel locks and protect the nut with a rag) to ensure everything is seated properly.
Then loosten the nut untill there is axial play in the axle.
Then tighten it by hand just until the axial play is gone.
At this point give the nut a slight snug (aprox 5 ft,lbs) and tighten the clamp screw, thats it.

I set mine up that way two years ago and (once I fixed the clamp so it would lock) I never had to touch it since. If you feel better doing it by the book, I wish you luck.

 

Thanks JS I was sort of thinking the same thing.

 

Ditto JSsDS - that's exactly what I do, and I do it with a strap wrench around the axle nut, rather than red-knecking it with a pipe wrench.
I am an industrial maintenance tech, and what JSsDS said is exactly what I do to tapered bearings on equipment designed to handle thousands of lbs., and my bike has 60 hours since I replaced the swingarm and I haven't had touch it since.
I don't know how they came up with that spec, but I do know that there are many typo's in the manual, several problems with conversions from metric to american crap, maybe this is one of them.

 

I definetely agree!

 

Whats so "red neck" about a pipe wrench? Not everybody has a strap wrench in their tool box. Hell I have over $20,000 worth of tools and I never owned a strap wrench. I'm just suggesting the tools that most people have at their desposal. If the end result is the same then who cares how you got there.

PS, channellocks are different then a pipe wrench...that is unless you are a plummer.