Ok, I am installing my water temperature gauge and I decided if possible I wanna do it without splicing into the return line, so I figured I would put it in the Idiot light sensor hole, but it's to small for the sensor, so what I need to know is what are the two wires on the right side of the motor where the return line comes out for? I assume they are for the thermostat, but the main thing I need to know is, if I can install the sensor in this hole get rid of the two wires, if they are for the fan, what do I have to do to get the fan to run continuously? Sorry for all these questions.

 

Anybody[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-frown.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]

 

Ok, here is a simpler question, what is the thing with two wires coming out of it, on the right side of the motor, where the coolant return line coems out and can it be removed?

 

i pretty sure its the switch for the fan

 

to keep the fan running wire it to the battery directly with a toggle switch so you can controll it manual, i think that should work, i dont see why it wouldnt

 

Can anyone else verify this, thanks for the input Fast.

 

Ok, I have verified that if you make a circuit "connect the two wires" the fan will wun constantly if the key is on. My question is, does anybody else run a constant on fan and if so how does it work and what downfalls and pro's of this are there?

 

i dont even have the fan on my rig, i put on a set of radiator shrouds, running engine ice, and have a inline water cooler, when the fan went out i bought another one have not installed it its still in the box and there is not a fan on the bike

 

Depending on where you ride, some people cannot get away without a fan. Long periods of slow riding is where it is needed, when air movement is too low more sufficient cooling.

Having a fan run constant will make the motor too cool in winter months, my fan never kicks on when I winter ride, no matter how slow. It would take longer for the motor to reach operating temp, and not run as efficient because the fan would be overcooling.

Correct on the wires - one sensor/switch is for red light, the other sensor/switch is for the fan. Connecting them will make it run - you could run them up to the dash, install a toggle there if you wanted.

Best thing would be to tee into return line - this way you got the red light for back-up if the gauge fails, and the red light will get your attention much quicker than looking at the gauge - you can catch it out the corner of the eye. This way, you also still have auto control of fan circuit too.

I run 50/50 antifreeze/water, correct jetting so I'm not hotter than I should be, and always stay within the temp specs in the manual as long as my fan works. I replaced it once, about 50 or 60 hours ago. One mistake commonly made when replacing a fan is to not shim it correctly during install - then it gets pulled into a bind when the bolts are tightened, making it harder to rotate, and damaging motor windings from added resistance.

 

Thanks for the input High, but could give me your .02 on this. I don't ride in the winter, she stays put and I play with the Arctic Cat 500 and plow. The coldest she ever sees is around say 50. I run engine ice and the other mods below and I'm jetted correctly. Would I still have a problem with overcooling, by running the fan constantly? I ride cross country and motocross, 90% of the time. This idea actually came to me from my Arctic Cat, because it has a "constant on" fan and I have had no trouble with it being cold blooded with the exception of when it's near 10 degrees or colder.