Ok,
I took my original gaps, then orderd the proper shims.. I only need 2, left exhaust and left intake...
I put in the new shims and it was WAY off so I ran it for a few minutes thinking it needed to be seated. I waited 24 hrs and they were ALL on but the 2 shims I replaced. they went the wrong way so I figured I had the shims bassakwards so I swaped the shims. now they look better but now my other 2 shimms that were fine are off!!! GOD this is driving me nuts.. do I have to run the engine let it cool then remeasure??? I am about 2 seconds from bring it to the dealer!!!

 

the engine should be at room temperature for measurement.

 

OKOK..
Here is is now..

FRONT EXHAUST
7 6
REAR INTAKE
5 6

Is this good enough? should I leave it?!?

 

i would leave them alone how they are 5-7 thousandths is good for me

 

4 to 6 is what your looking for... however unless you have a shim that is 1/2 mm thicker than the one that in there leave it as is. You'll be fine. So far as time goes by mine have tightened up any way. Maybe yours will do the same. Hope not though. Cause thats not a good thing. Im all the way down to 2.00mm shims in both my intakes[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-mad.gif[/img]
Guess that just means I get to go with head wrok sooner rather than later[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

Eagle - you can have a local machine shop grind the shims you have down to what you need them to be on a magnetic based surface grinder - $15 is what I was charged to have 4 ground. Cheaper than buying new. Just do not grind them thinner than the lip on the bucket of course, and measure righ the first time!

 

Exelent Idea. That is way better than frying a valve and much cheaper than the enevitable.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
Actually Tony (AngryBajaBoy) told me that is what he did with his. Im just looking for any excuse I can find to justify larger valves and the port job "AKA"...18+ bills [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

I hear ya, that'll be my next step - stainless steel to boot. And I'll haev the stems shortened a bit to give more room for shim adjustment, instead of shim grinding.

 

i am so glag that im not the only one with this problem, now that you have the uderbucket shims does your valve train seem to be a little more noiser then with the stock shim kit

 

5-7 thousands is plenty. when the motor heats up you will have more clearance.

always check and make sure yoiur cams turn when you have them bolted down tight. i have ran into problems with that. just putting 4 bolts in the it ok, with all of them its makes it tighter on the cams.