I think we should clarify. There is two Different kits from Sam Coe. One is a 733 and one is a 720. Major has the 733 and Anger has the 720

 

hey duneme could you e-mail me how to get in touch with godfried, thanks.

 

and while we are clarifying things- I saw the damage done to Azsands motor first hand and the probable cause of it's demise. Apparently
Azsands mechanic installed the piston wist pin and the pin was 3/8 -1/2" TOO SHORT! so it was sliding back and forth in the piston and the stress was not being supported properly and the piston cracked in the wrist pin area and let go. I don't know if Samcoe's people packaged the wrong wrist pin, it is entirely possible cuz Matt was working for him back then. But the fact is that his mechanic was incompetent enuff
to install the darn thing and it cost Azsand a perfectly good motor. Samcoe gets a lot of crap thrown his way - some his his fault and some isn't. I just think it's important to be accurate when one starts throwing crap around cuz you don't know where it's gonna land and what it's gonna stick to!

 

Ever though about putting a 105 on that 88 stroke Major?

 

My buddy is rebuilding his DS. A vavle broke off along with guide and spring. He is sending it back to Ron Woods and is considering the 720. He is concerned with the weight of the new bigger bore piston. Anyone know if it's much heavier than the stocker? I think I might send my jug same time as him. I hope I get the proper wristpin for ours.

 

I had heard that about the wrist pin from Jeff (who had initally bought that kit and then decided against it and AZ got it - I think!)

I agree that a good mechanic should notice things like that and not put it together. I had the same issue when I had my local shop do my first build up - numerous things that were not done - not very good attention to detail. Like they just wanted to get it back together and out of their shop. After what I have experienced my thought is that if you aren't going to do the build yourself you better feel extremely comfortable with the shop you are using. The more experience they have with building and assembly of the specific kit you are using on the specific engine you have the better.

Better still - if you live close to someone see if they would be willing to help you put it together. You may have to go with their schedule but, I have learned a ton working with Jeff, Major, AZ, and other buddies on theirs and my quads.

 

im currently running the 720 with extensive head work, ive been running it for a month and am still working the bugs out..i have blown three head gaskets in one month.. i now have to o-ring the sleeve and use the right head gaskets this time.. you also have to run the bike for about 10 minutes then re-torque the head to 50 lb..the samcoe 720 is not a bolt on kit as stated, you have to modify head to make the clearance..i advise NOT to use the new larger valves they do not work right with samcoe JE 105mm piston...the normal stage 3 valves are recomended.. to credit my mechanic, we had my 720 non-o-ringed and not re-torqued running strong for 2 weeks, thats a long time for a non o-ringed motor.. in fact i easily beet my friends stage 3 with nos ..also beat a CR500 piped dirt-bike up dumont comp hill by about 10 bike lengths,that is what a dialed in 720 should do. this kit has great potential but may be a head-ake in discuise!!!just ask ANRGY BAJA he is really getting tired of the BS involved with this program. but in the end if done right it is worth every penny, especially when you feel the potential power that can be created ...if useing the right fuel, jetting ,cam combo,porting combo, valve size ect..

 

What if it's o-ringed? Can I use stock vavles? What are the valves you suggest NOT to use?

 

WOW, no offense to him, but is there something seriously wrong with his bike? i mean the nos kits I've seen have up to 25hp boosts - and no bore kit gives that.

 

Here is what Gottfried said. Keep in mind due to the language difference I think sometimes a little extra communication is needed when going with a non-standard kit. Sounds like you could have your head modified and put a 105.5 cylinder and piston in and be fine but, I think he was talking about doing it without modifying the head for the Pami piston.

Here is what Gottfried said:

Hello Mark,

we could machine the cylinder buttom dia (the sleeve (?)) 1,5mm down,
then it will fitt in the stock case....but...the cylinderhead (squish area) must
be machined to fit with our piston - and the piston deck height is 0,5mm to
short - so we must shorten the cylinder - then the cam timing is wrong (to
late).

If you tolerate this all - it fitts ?????

But in the end when you add other mods and reach "good power results" - there
are a few risks - the thinner cylinder "sleeve" and at least the rod.

We`re offering a new cylinder dia 103,5mm (with piston) and correct deck height,
but you`ll have to modd the cylinderhead; the thinner sleeve is no risk as the
cylinder bore is only 103,5mm ??? Costs: 1350 Euro plus freight


Thanks,

Gottfried - Team Pami

P.S. 103,5mm will give you exact 699 cc - to stay under 700cc ????


-----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Mark Beaty [mailto:mjbeaty@attbi.com]
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 9. April 2003 19:58
An: Gottfried Michels
Betreff: 105.5 jug / piston


Gottfried:

Hello, I have a friend looking to go bigger bore but, doesn't want to split the cases. Can he purchase a 105.5 cylinder & piston without having to do any work on the cases (no stroke change).

If so, will the stock rod be strong enough for this larger bore?

Any other parts or work that would be needed (other than gaskets & sealant)? Any head modification required on a stock head so it can mate up with the new jug?

Thanks,

Mark