sorry, I missed it! I can't put a number to it, you'll have more than you got, but less than the guy with the piston and cams. you'll beat the guys you run neck and neck with now, but it won't take you past that guy that puts 2 or 3 lengths on you already in the 100yrd.
you'll like it, but down the road when you pull the head again for valve springs and porting, you'll have to buy yet another head gasket.

 

K, thanks. I was just wondering for future mods.

 

i never had to grind anything to get the head and jug off my engine don't you guys just remove the motor mounts, and roll the engine forward? well i remove the intake manifold first then everything just slides out. i'm liking my ds better and better no grinding, and the stock throttle cable hooked right up to the tm45 and no it not stiff, for you guys running that different cable. i've rode some of those machines and that is insane to ride with that throttle that stiff if you don't have to.

 

I cut the top motor mount completely out,and only left enough mount to bolt my tank too. I see NO need for a top motor mount, and think it could possible cause problems when trying to get the head sealed. Haveing the head bolted to the frame does'nt make good since to me.JMO.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]







BIggerisbetter.

 

We keep the motor mounts in and grind a little on the head mount location and a little on the mount.

I know what Bigger is saying is true for many (even the big boys) - don't use the upper engine mount. I think most do keep the cross member though. I think I heard DSMike did the same thing as you Bigger (cut off the upper cross-member?)

 

Yep, they are the ones that told me to do it![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]


If you dont use the top motor mount, I say. save the wieght[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]






BIggerisbetter.

 

Yup cut it out. Seems when the frame flexes it would pull up on the head?