Zstar 110 - Replace Ignition/Kill switch with inline switch?
#11
I put fuel in the tank and it leaked out of all sorts of vents and check valves (in the carb) that it shouldn't be leaking out of. The little gasket on the bowl is bad too.
So I'm going to order a carb and go from there.
So I'm going to order a carb and go from there.
#12
Ok so the new carb came and I put that on.
I am still getting the same result. Cranks and cranks all day, but won't start.
I removed the CDI box to do some ohm tests and couldn't seem to get any resistance readings of any kind, so I think the CDI might be bad.
I am still getting the same result. Cranks and cranks all day, but won't start.
I removed the CDI box to do some ohm tests and couldn't seem to get any resistance readings of any kind, so I think the CDI might be bad.
#13
Finally got this thing running, so I will share my findings.
I was wrong about the CDI, the original was fine. (Zrock: it is AC-CDI, I was wrong about that too lol)
The carb was not properly diagnosed, I just replaced it. It's very possible that it would be fine with a good cleaning. The ATV sat for a couple years with P.O, so I just felt better installing a new one. Point being, there's no evidence showing that the carb was a contributor to the no-start.
Now, onto the things I did right.
1. Re-wire: I removed the whole wiring harness, did continuity tests on every circuit, and replaced wires where necessary. It was a mess, so I started with that knowing it needed attention.
The last 3 things I did before I had a successful start-and-run:
2. Tested Stator: found several opens, so I replaced it.
3. Tested Ignition Coil: did not pass resistance tests, replaced.
4. Set Valves: both timing and clearances were way off, set exhaust and intake to .004
I would also recommend the switch setup I have in the wiring diagram earlier in this thread. It works flawlessly and eliminates several components from the electrics that are known to be troublesome.
Anyway, hope this helps anyone with similar issues!
Green.
I was wrong about the CDI, the original was fine. (Zrock: it is AC-CDI, I was wrong about that too lol)
The carb was not properly diagnosed, I just replaced it. It's very possible that it would be fine with a good cleaning. The ATV sat for a couple years with P.O, so I just felt better installing a new one. Point being, there's no evidence showing that the carb was a contributor to the no-start.
Now, onto the things I did right.
1. Re-wire: I removed the whole wiring harness, did continuity tests on every circuit, and replaced wires where necessary. It was a mess, so I started with that knowing it needed attention.
The last 3 things I did before I had a successful start-and-run:
2. Tested Stator: found several opens, so I replaced it.
3. Tested Ignition Coil: did not pass resistance tests, replaced.
4. Set Valves: both timing and clearances were way off, set exhaust and intake to .004
I would also recommend the switch setup I have in the wiring diagram earlier in this thread. It works flawlessly and eliminates several components from the electrics that are known to be troublesome.
Anyway, hope this helps anyone with similar issues!
Green.
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R.J.
2) Chassis problems..
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misterddd
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Apr 15, 2016 10:25 AM
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