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2002 linhai 260 dies going over harsh bumps

  #1  
Old 04-11-2019, 07:29 AM
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Default 2002 linhai 260 dies going over harsh bumps

hi I am new to the form. I turned to forms to find a solution to my problem . I have a 2002 linhai 260 and for the most part it runs good but for some reason when I go down hills or hit really harsh bumps she will cut off. I have replaced the spark plug and installed a new carb. Any one have any thoughts ?
 
  #2  
Old 04-11-2019, 08:53 PM
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Default Update on linhai

Originally Posted by bobbyj23 View Post
hi I am new to the form. I turned to forms to find a solution to my problem . I have a 2002 linhai 260 and for the most part it runs good but for some reason when I go down hills or hit really harsh bumps she will cut off. I have replaced the spark plug and installed a new carb. Any one have any thoughts ?
Update! I fired up the atv and bounced on the atv and nothing happened. But if your sitting on the atv the left side there is 2 connectors and when you measure with one the atv will shut off . Not sure what to look for .
 
  #3  
Old 04-14-2019, 08:46 PM
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Default Update 2

Still having a wire issue but there is a fuse and a connector on the starter solenoid and if that connector is just a little loose the atv will not restart. I wrapped electric tap around the connector so it should not be coming loose again . The other day I rode the atv and fired right up and ran fine but after 30 min or so went to pinging and popping real bad like it was back firing and keep cutting off just about left me stranded . Rode it today and it ran pruty good just tried to cut off when ideling when it got good and warm . I came across a article where a guy described a condition similar to mine and he said the ignition coil was to blame . Not really sure but to me it gives off a carb or a fuel pump problem but the carb is new and the spark plug is new .
 
  #4  
Old 04-15-2019, 01:38 AM
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Check the charging rate. I have known a few engines where an overcharging voltage regulator starts cooking the CDI, coil and plug. Often only shows when the bike gets warm because the electrics are also getting hot due to overcharging. 14.5v maximum should be going to the battery when running.
 
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Old 04-17-2019, 05:59 AM
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Originally Posted by merryman View Post
Check the charging rate. I have known a few engines where an overcharging voltage regulator starts cooking the CDI, coil and plug. Often only shows when the bike gets warm because the electrics are also getting hot due to overcharging. 14.5v maximum should be going to the battery when running.
I'm no mechanic where should I put my volt meter ? also the other day I fired it up and ran fine until it got warm and then it started back firing very bad almost didn't make it home. But odd enough the next day I rode it around for a while and the only problem I had was once it got hot it wanted to shut off and not idle but I could fire it right back up and as long as I hit the throttle I was good. no mechanic in my area will even touch it because they have never heard of it. the only other symptom I am having is I'm not sure if its normal or not but going up hills this atv has no power. it does not bog down or any thing but I cant go up hills bc I may or may not make it to the top before the atv just stops.
 
  #6  
Old 04-23-2019, 10:01 AM
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Default linhai update

the linai is still shutting off on hills and when it gets really warm it will shut off but can be restarted an rode as long as throttle is applied. I replaced the fuel filter because it looked old and have replaced the spark plug. when I changed the spark plug the problem got a little bit better but still has not ben resolved. I ran a little bit of sea foam through it . the carb was replaced a month before a bought the atv and I have a receipt from the guy . I have purchased a new ignition coil and a fuel pump. I will update this post when ever they come in and are installed. I still need to follow the advice given above and check the voltage so I will be buying a volt meter and updating you guys on that as well.
 
  #7  
Old 04-23-2019, 02:47 PM
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Sorry I missed your question about where to put the voltmeter. You set the dial to 20v DC and put the leads onto the battery pos and neg. Start up, rev the engine and see what voltage you get, should vary between 13v and 14.5v any more and it is overcharging.
 
  #8  
Old 04-24-2019, 04:49 AM
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Default volt meter

Originally Posted by merryman View Post
Sorry I missed your question about where to put the voltmeter. You set the dial to 20v DC and put the leads onto the battery pos and neg. Start up, rev the engine and see what voltage you get, should vary between 13v and 14.5v any more and it is overcharging.
wow you explained that very well sir thanks!!!! i have to go get a better volt meter this cheap one i have sucks bad there was a reason it was free with a purchase lol. i do have to know are linhai atvs weak on hill climbs ? mine does not like hills with any sort of steep grade and hills that are not steep but long slight uphill inclines.
 
  #9  
Old 04-29-2019, 03:10 PM
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Default yes anouther update

Even though i only have one guy offering any assistance i am still updating this post to help others who may run into a problem like mine.
ignition coil has been replaced and it did not fix my problem! i was able to ride all day with a little bit of trouble . after a hour the atv wanted to shut off every time i stopped given it throttle and i would have to restart it. so i found my self very so slightly pressing the throttle even when the brake was on. now after 2 hours of siting my atv would not restart. i pulled my plug to make sure my atv was getting spark and like a dummy i touched the frame and got my shelf shocked so i am getting spark. i sprayed some starter fluid into the air box and she fired right up. i am starting to think my fuel pump as gone out!
 
  #10  
Old 05-10-2019, 08:47 AM
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Linhai 260 crawls rough terrain as good as Honda Rancher
Just needs a little more maintenance.

Carburetor? Major Problem:
1. ran fine for about 10 miles when brand new
2. stalled out, would not restart, let cool off, still no start
towed to garage, finally started but would not idle
later failed to start - starter motor would not turn engine
charged battery then next day tried starter several times and
then heard engine move a little, then next try it started
but still would not idle
runs good above 3000 rpm, a little rough above 2000,
runs rough and stalls out below about 1800
3. drove it while never letting throttle go to zero,
noticed hesitation and loss of power when pushing throttle
between 2000-3000 rpm, then stalled out again
would not restart after cranking several times
then later, starter stopped turning over engine again
even though battery was only partially discharged

Carburetor? Major Problem Solution:
1. Turns out it is the FUEL PUMP overfilling the float bowl.
It must have a bit too much pressure, overpowering the float valve
(overflow tube is sealed allowing bowl to fill completely).
Note my Honda Rancher does not use fuel pump, just gravity feed.
2. The quick and dirty fix is to open the float drain screw
to let out some fuel, then it will start after a few seconds.
Note Keihin carb drain screw was over-torqued (very hard to turn at first)
3. Starter problem: Overflowing carb may spill liquid gas into cylinder
which would increase compression as liquid does not compress.
4. PUMP FIX: Move one tank fuel line from tank selector to fuel pump IN.
Add new line from fuel pump OUT to tank selector.
Connect fuel filter to carb IN (where fuel pump was) with hose coupler.
Moving the fuel pump back up the line increases the load
on it and therefore decreases fuel pressure into carb.
Switching tank selector (NORMAL/RES?) changes to gravity feed
which should still work (like Honda Rancher).

Other need to know:
Oil fluid - why you should change frequently? No filter
Oil filter - non-existent, only has small oil strainer
Oil change:
1. bottom drain plug was torqued on at about 100 ft-lbs?!?!
needed 16 inch breaker bar, extention, 19mm 6-point socket
but first had to grind bottom panel access hole larger to push extention through
2. oil drain plug has spring above it pushing small oil strainer above it
not mentioned in the user manual - SHOULD BE!
3. replace in this configuration - bottom to top:
Oil drain plug, spring, strainer (stainer basket recessed inside spring)
Differential fluid levels:
Both were low, added gear oil to both
may have overfilled rear diff, manual says level 2" down?
added a little friction modifier to front diff, makes it work almost like a locker
 

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