Been trying to trouble shoot no spark issue for sometime now.

I've ran ohms test on wiring coming out of stator. Green wire result about 00.5 ohms. Black/red .575 ohms on 2k ohms settings. Blue/white 148 ohms on 200 ohm settings. Didn't worry about white and yellow ones .

When tested cdi with test light, with key on and kill switch on:
black/white wire light comes on.
blue/white wire light comes on but a dim light.

I don't think this lights are supposed to come on so im thinking this is where problem is somehow.

What can i do next to further track down problem? Anyone have similar/same problem?
I have tried following solutions:
Cdi box is new. Spark plug coil is new. Tried a knowing working volt regulator. Starter/kill switch is new.
If I don't flip start/kill switch to on and/or key ignition on, the bike will not turnover, hence I figure ignition key switch is working.
This is has the press in handlebar brake to start type. If i dont press in handlebar brake, it will not turn over, i figure that part is fine.
There some suggestions to adjust distance between pick up coil and flywheel's pulsator I believe..? Can't really figure how that would be done.

This engine is brand new hence brand new stator.
Suggestions, ideas, comments..? Thanks!

 

If you put your test lamp between battery pos and black/white it will light as black/white is earthed (usually when ignition is off).

You test for AC volts between blue/white and earth when engine is spun on starter, then you test for AC volts between black/red and earth when engine is spun. At CDI plug you test that earth(s) are earthed, black/white is earthed with ignition off and open circuit with ignition on (one or two makes like ETon have it the other way round) and that those volts are getting to the CDI plug from the blue/white and red/black wires when you spin the engine over.

 

On known working quad, it's a 110cc, the black/white wire at the cdi does not light up test light when ignition key on and start switch on; which is what it should do.

On the quad I'm working on , the light does light up which leads me.to believe this may be the issue, a short or something. Also, the blue/white wire at the cdi lights up but very dim light. So, another issue there.

From what I understand, the black/white wire "turns things off" , so maybe an issue with starter/kill switch (although I put on new one but still no change). The blue/white wire goes to spark coil, im.not sure. Trying to get deeper and see what to trace. Thanks

 

I have 65 volts on black/red coming out of stator. The blue/white, I have 145ohms. When do the crank test, voltage is 0 though. Of course, still no spark.


New cdi box, new spark plug coil, and again, new kill/on switch. The black/white and blue/white wires on cdi box are suspect I think something not right. Sorry didn't quite understand procedure to test those wires what should specs be.

Any ideas, advice, suggestions. I have tried new kill switch. The starting mechanism requires hand brake be applied and it Is applied, but no spark. If I dont press handlebar, engine won't even turn. Could this part still be defective? The key ignition switch also, if I dont turn to on, enginene won't even crank. So assuming it's working properly.
I'm all out of ideas.

 

Between blue/white and earth, you should get an AC voltage when engine is spun over. This wire comes from the trigger coil and pulses a voltage once a rev to tell the CDI it is time to spark. It may not be a high voltage, often less than 0.5v but no voltage = no signal, no signal = no spark.

 

Thanks. So at this point, what may be the approach in finding the reason? If the trigger is getting proper ohms, that means it's good? I tried another trigger and still same result. The parts ibhave spare are from 90cc engine. Does it make a difference if this is a 125cc?

 

Others on here have found the trigger coil was too far from the flywheel pip on new stators. I guess you may be having the same problem. No idea what the gap should be. Several different stators were used on genuine Honda "Cub" engines, never mind Chinese copies, so it isn't surprising there may be incompatible components.

 

Ok, so I ran the blue/white vac test again. I'm actually getting between 0.09 to 0.44, more steadily at about 0.24 after long steady crank. I believe specs is at least 0.5, right? So something here not quite right.

I tried adjusting the pick up coil to come closer to flywheel but it's more of a blind guess. How can I measure the distance if the engine cover on which the stator sits on is on the way upon installation?

 

As I wrote, it is others who have had the problem of pulse coil being too far away. I wondered how they checked it was right. I suspect 0.4v would be enough to get a spark.

Black/white is an easy one to test, can't understand why people have problems, disconnect CDI plug, resistance test between black/white and earth. open circuit with key switch one way, no resistance with key switch the other way. As I also wrote earlier, most are earth to kill, so open circuit with ignition on, but some are the other way round, so key switch and CDI need to be compatible.

 

"As I also wrote earlier, most are earth to kill, so open circuit with ignition on, but some are the other way round, so key switch and CDI need to be compatible".

Sorry. Trying to make sense of this for black/white wire on cdi. So if i set multimeter to ohms, with ignition key on and start/kill switch to start position, should get OL (open circuit) reading? And if the other way, then should get resistance, depending on key switch?

I did this test with a light test. I know already mentioned this.

I have also tried depinging that wire from cdi box. Connected a wire from ground on cdi box to ground on frame as per instructions and cranked it. Still no spark, no voltage.