From the rockauto site it appears that the top ball joints are labeled for either the forged or stamped version of the arm.

 

Forged are thicker they are more the tubular design much heavier
https://www.readylift.com/blog/2017/...-control-arms/

 

Yeah I see now mine are def stamped.

Considering the mileage I've decided to change out everything I can. Ordering 2 new top A-arm assemblies, 2 lower ball joints, 4 lower A-arm bushings, 2 new strut assemblies w/ springs, and 2 sway bar links. This only leaves the tie rod ends which there is a chance are not original. This car was part of a fleet that got regular maintenance so since I didn't see any movement at the outer tie rod ends when I was doing the 3 & 9 push test I'm thinking they may have already been replaced. I'll put in everything I've ordered and see how the steering is after that. Do you always do both inner and outer tie rod ends at the same time or is it common just to do the outer, or just the inner?

Found a decent set of ebay shock and spring, strut? assemblies for $150 but it's specified as fitting the interceptor model whereas mine is just the base model. Would they still work ok?

 

Since your going to have to pay for a alignment i would replace the inner and outer tie rods as well.. Then its all done and should not have to worry about it for years to come.. I think the interceptor model was the police version so it would have had a stiffer suspension to help with performance. Should fit but im not 100% sure

 

Found a fairly comprehensive front end kit for a great deal...like $137 for all of this...

2006-11 Ford Lincoln Mercury Steering & Suspension Kit 12 Piece Set - 1ASFK05040

https://www.1aauto.com/2006-11-ford-...t/i/1asfk05040

I'd rather go with something more dependable like Moog at least on the lower ball joints.

What do you think? Should I go with this kit and save? She's got 320k on her now.

 

Personally i would go with the OEM from rock auto or a good name brand... You get what yu pay for