Need to know how to adjust the auto clutch on the rancher. I know it has to do with the screw and nut on the front of the engine. Just how does the manual say to adjust it correctly?

 

On the older quads, specifically the 400 I have, you loosen the locknut, turn the screw in until it bottoms, then back it out 1/4 turn and lock it. I'm not sure if it's the same on the Rancher or not, I suspect it is.

 

Loosen the locknut and turn the screw counterlockwise until you just feel it tighten up. Then turn it clockwise 1/4 turn. Tighten the locknut.

 

Upon further consultation with Manual, the Hallowed Source of All Knowledge, it would appear that KAL is right, turn counterclockwise until resistance is felt, then clockwise 1/4 turn, then tighten locknut.

 

Thanks to all that responded. Will this adjustment help if i am having trouble shifting. Its hard to shift up gears like from 1st to 2nd and up to 4th. Shifting into 5th works like normal. When shifting and i let off the gas it is very hard to shift. If i shift a little quicker as i am letting off then it is smooth. But once atv warms up good after 10 to 15 minutes it shifts ok. Hard to explain but i have had many honda atvs before and the only other time i had another one do something like it is when in reverse and its hard to get out of gear after backing up.

 

Adjusting the clutch isn't going to fix your problem unless someone has fooled with it already. The adjusting process takes out the slack in the clutch pack, so if anything, if the clutch is the problem.....adjusting it would cause the shifting to be worse than it is now.

On the Ranchers, I have seen many shifting problems.......S and ES models alike. Always the same symptoms, but always different causes. But all being in the shift linkage. [Shaft, plate, or drum.or all 3]

 

On some hondas, the wet clutch pack discs will stick, hold the brakes, lift up on the shift lever (clutch disengauge) and hold it there. Rev the engine (while holding the shifter up) and note if the engine is still lugging. If it is, hold the throttle until it revs like it should if it were in neutral. If you have an electric shift model, use the shift tool in the kit to simulate the foot shift procedure. After the clutch freewheels, turn of the unit with the key and the electric shift will restt upon key off, key on procedure.
Some earlier models of ranchers had bad shift arm inside the transmission (under the front cover) that may fail. Normal symtoms of this are being able to shift up and not down or vice-a- versa.
I think one of the clutch discs is stuck in yours the way you explain.
Keep me posted I am Honda tech with specialized training in ATV's

----- Gimpster -----

 

Gimpster
You were 100% correct. I put it in gear and held up on the shifter and the atv wanted to move. I held the brakes and keep gasing it and after 3 or 4 times it broke free. it revs fine now with the shifter held up. What causes it to do that and will it return again?

 

Using the wrong oil causes clutch problems. Make sure you are using oil designed for motorcycles with wet clutches. Never use automobile oil. It is not that the auto oil is not good oil, the auto oil has the wrong additive package. Auto oil has friction modifiers that interfere with the proper function of a motorcycle clutch.

 

Mine is a bit cranky when cold, I blame it on cold oil, although it's not as bad as yours from what you've described. Mine jumps a bit when you engage any gear for the first time any day it's really cold. That's just the cold oil film between the clutch plates, and I consider it to be normal. The motorcycles I've owned over the years have been the same way, up to the point of stalling when you engage the first gear. What grade oil are you running ?? Anything heavier than 10w40 is going to cause some problems in cold weather...