New motor "BREAK in MYThs"
#1
01-12-2005, 03:07 PM
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New motor "BREAK in MYThs"
Everyone has their own way of breaking in a motor. IS there really a best way to do it?
Me and a buddy bought 2 recons the same weak. He rode his easy and waited 20 hours to changed the oil. Lots of metal came out.
I rode mine hard as soon as the motor warmed. As hard as I could for 4 hours. Then I changed the oil. There was a good bit of metal. I changed it again at 12 hours. Some metal flakes but not much came out.
My bike has more power. We have test rode each bike and he agrees mine has more power.He broke his in the way it was recommended. I broke mine in exactly the way I wanted to ride it. Wide open. No mods they are exactly the same 4 wheeler.
Can anyone explain this. Is it the way I broke mine in? It's not a huge difference but its enough to notice.
I have heard from racers to "break a motor in the way you want to run it".
Me and a buddy bought 2 recons the same weak. He rode his easy and waited 20 hours to changed the oil. Lots of metal came out.
I rode mine hard as soon as the motor warmed. As hard as I could for 4 hours. Then I changed the oil. There was a good bit of metal. I changed it again at 12 hours. Some metal flakes but not much came out.
My bike has more power. We have test rode each bike and he agrees mine has more power.He broke his in the way it was recommended. I broke mine in exactly the way I wanted to ride it. Wide open. No mods they are exactly the same 4 wheeler.
Can anyone explain this. Is it the way I broke mine in? It's not a huge difference but its enough to notice.
I have heard from racers to "break a motor in the way you want to run it".
#3
01-12-2005, 04:14 PM
New motor "BREAK in MYThs"
If you have a motor which is spitting out pieces of metal on the first oil change,,,then the manufacturer needs to know this.
Times have changed, and now even briggs , has quality control. But japanese companies have had quality control over this since the early 70s. Every motor is flushed out after machining and deburring, there should be absolutely no loose pieces of metal floating around in the oil. If there is, you need to contact your dealer.
Pieces of metal floating around in the oil means trouble ahead...either a fit, has a clearance issue, or it was put together dirty. Either way, it aint good.
Ive been a machinist for 26 years, believe me, they clean out the castings before assembly. Having metal in the oil is not normal.
Times have changed, and now even briggs , has quality control. But japanese companies have had quality control over this since the early 70s. Every motor is flushed out after machining and deburring, there should be absolutely no loose pieces of metal floating around in the oil. If there is, you need to contact your dealer.
Pieces of metal floating around in the oil means trouble ahead...either a fit, has a clearance issue, or it was put together dirty. Either way, it aint good.
Ive been a machinist for 26 years, believe me, they clean out the castings before assembly. Having metal in the oil is not normal.
#4
01-12-2005, 04:19 PM
New motor "BREAK in MYThs"
All machines have metal shavings during break in just from break in. I have seen probably 20 new machines broke in and all of them has had shavings in the 1st or 2nd oil change. I have never heard anybody say there wouldn't be shavings no matter what kind of break in.
#5
01-12-2005, 05:45 PM
New motor "BREAK in MYThs"
I have always found this to be a contraversy. I worked as an automotive machinist for 6 years building stock motors to race motors. The race motors we built did not have as tight clearances, but the additional clearances where because of the excessive RPM's that were turned in the motors. People that had drag race motors didn't drive them 2500 or 5000 miles ""easy" to break them in. They unloaded them of thr trailer, warmed them up and made a pass. The link to the break-in procedure on maddog's post makes sense to me. I aslo believe that warming them up corrrectly has alot to do with the performance and life of the engine. Motors are built with clearances set up for operating temps, not when the motor is still cold.
#6
01-12-2005, 05:56 PM
New motor "BREAK in MYThs"
Originally posted by: maddog56
Break In 101
Break In 101
And that also should explain to him why his motor has more power.
The cool thing that really helps to validify his test, is that they were both the EXACT same quad, bought at the EXACT same time, broken in by two DIFFERENT methods, with no other modifications to either.
Nice!
#7
01-12-2005, 06:01 PM
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#8
01-12-2005, 06:04 PM
New motor "BREAK in MYThs"
Originally posted by: maddog56
I did the same thing with 2 raptors off the same truck, mine was faster even when we switched riders.
I did the same thing with 2 raptors off the same truck, mine was faster even when we switched riders.
The main thing to remember, (as was already mentioned), is to allow for full warm up, use regular oil for break-in, and change the oil and filter quickly for the first couple of rides.
#9
01-12-2005, 06:08 PM
#10
01-12-2005, 06:21 PM
New motor "BREAK in MYThs"
Originally posted by: Semms40oz
I've always broke my motors in fast using a method like that in maddogs link, just one question.... that article only mentioned "all 4-stroke" motors, so is it still good to break in 2-strokes the same way?
I've always broke my motors in fast using a method like that in maddogs link, just one question.... that article only mentioned "all 4-stroke" motors, so is it still good to break in 2-strokes the same way?
I would ASSUME that the same would apply, but have not put this to the test, nor have I seen anyone post about doing it like this.
I E-mailed Motoman (the author of the article in Maddogs post) about this several months ago, but never got a reply from him.
Perhaps someone else could try to contact him with this question?